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pops- the dizzy drives the oil pump-not oil pump driving the dizzy. The dizzy drive gear is pinned to the dizzy shaft, so in essence you could get the dizzy out by however many teeth are on the dizzy( I can't remem how many ). That shaft is the oil pump drive shaft.
Okay, but I never said the oil pump drives the "dizzy". The position of the shaft is still a factor, eventhough you are correct about the gears..... My point was to correct the "180 degree out" thinking..... But still, you make a good point.
I think pops was trying to say, Some people use the oil shaft position to help put the dist back in the same place. If you put the rotor where you marked it and it drops all the way in you probley have it. If you are one tooth off of where it came out it will not drop all the way in without jiggleing it until the shaft moves enough to let the dist drop. In a chevy it only goes on the shaft 2 ways, hence the term 180 out. In a FE it can go on the shaft 6 ways.
First- Suggest investing in a Chilton's Repair Manual for your truck, approx $14, many tips and specs make this a very worth while investment.
Is it possible to ask person who installed current dist if it is an exact replacement, or just one that was close, and if it was a rebuilt unit or pulled from a donor truck (junk yard).
FWIW- It is quite possible for the truck to run with dist in at 180 off, it just won't run quite right. It's very easy to make this mistake, and sometimes very difficult to find.
I just replaced my distributor in my 390 and the old one was off by 180 degrees. The truck has never run correctly and this was one of the last things, besides a timing chain, that I have not replaced. I do not drive it much so I was not that big of a deal.
With the new distributor I had assumed the old one was in correctly, it was not. When I went to check the timing/dwell again it still acted wierd (dropped when it should rise) and I could only restart it by moving plug wires. So, finally I removed #1 plug, stuck a wire inside, and made sure the it was on TDC and the compression stroke. It was off by 180 degrees.
Reinstalled and guessed on the gap and it started right up. Runs much better, still has a (minor now) shaking problem, I probably should have spent the $30 two years ago
[QUOTE=stanz]Ratman- any luck in fixing this? I have the same exact problem. I'm curious what you found out.
Thanks.
I had a friend adjust the timing and it was out 6 deg. It helped but it still didnt fix the problem. It stil spits and sputers till 2000 rpm and takes off. I also changed plugs and wire
I thought the term 180 out came from having the dizzy lined up to fire on the exhaust stroke as opposed to the compression stroke. This engine really sounds like it has a crossed wire!
Sounds like my scenario may be a little different... I have a 460 in my f250 with a Carter AFB 4bbl. Applying constant, even gas pedal pressure I can accelerate just fine.
But when I punch the gas real hard down the floor, I get a pop, a flame and the motor dies. My cap rotor, plugs, wire, fuel filter, and fuel pump have all been replaced since discovery of this issue and none have fixed it. I am certain that I do not have any crossed wires -- everyone I know has double checked them.
I bought the truck two months ago and the previous owner had mentioned that he had played with jets and metering rods. I have not yet bought a timing light to check the timing.
The fact that this truck runs real strong except when punched leads me to lean more towards the carb, but not being very knowledgeable about carbs and not knowing much about jets and metering rods, I don't know where to start. What I don't want to get into is a 'try and see' mode with every jet and metering rod combo. I get a few hours a week to work on the truck -- I need to nail this one on the head.
Stanz, sounds as if your accelerator pump is defective. Key in pocket, take off the air cleaner, hold the choke open, and open the throttle fully. As you open the throttle, there should be a squirt of fuel into the venturis. It is to make up for the leanness caused when you open the throttle. Air can move much quicker than liquid gasoline, so there is a mechanical pump of fuel to help make the proper air/fuel mix until the fuel can accelerate within the carb passages.
tom
Shortly after tomw's post I fixed my problem, it turned out to be combination of the acclerator pump and timing. I swapped the carb for a new Edelbrock 1411 and re-set the timing the truck drives like new.
Sadly, just as I got it running like a top, I now have to put the truck up for sale. I was having the transfer case rebuilt today and they found a crack in the transmission case. My wife now says I must sell. I'll still have my Bronco, but the F250 is in the FTE classifieds.
Thanks again to everyone for your insight and advice in getting my truck running great.
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