the ford manual says to use a metering valve bleeder tool, (number J-22742) to hold open the metering valve on the brake proportioning valve on a 79 f series. However, I cannot find this tool. It is made by Kent-Moore for a GM believe it or not.Does anyone know where i can find this tool?Or, in absence of it, what is the proper way to bleed the brakes? Or does anyone know of a similar tool to perform the same procedure?

Thanks. Rory

 

Believe it's available through a GM or Ford dealer, if you have a local Snap-on #, try them.
Unless there's some reason you just feel that you've got to have this specialty tool, try improvising.
Don't overdue the pressure, you can use a small pair of vise grips.
Even less chance of damage if you'll use a pair of needle nose pliers with a rubber band wrapped on the handles to keep them clamped shut.
The 'plunger' on the valve should be pretty easy to pull out to 'open' position.

 

Some guys have used a piece of spring steel folded with a slot cut in it to fit around the pin and pull it out. On vehicles over 6800 GVWR the pin is pushed IN to bleed the brakes.

 

I just finished doing this on my '79 f250 this past weekend.

The pin controls flow to the front brakes. I bled the rears just fine without worrying about the pin.

Like Torque says, the manuals say that "On vehicles over 6800 GVWR the pin is pushed IN to bleed the brakes." My f250 has GVWR of 6200 lbs, but, after spending a half hour pumping the brakes with the pin pulled out and not a drop coming out the front caliper bleeder valves, I wondered if the instructions were correct. So, I pushed the pin in, and, hallelujia. Go figure.

I had been using just a small pair of vice grips to hold the pin out, trying to be real careful not to bend the pin.

 

All,
This is old hat here on this sight btu just for the record. I have bled many F100 & F150s, successfully, without ever touching the pin. It is my opinion, that unless you are air bound, there is no need to use the pin.
KingFisher

 

& always pump the brakes slowly when bleeding.

 

The bi-directional tractors manufactured by Ford-New Holland have hydraulic brakes just like a pickup. Their shop manual says to use an oil can with a short piece of hose attached to it, and to fill the lines from the bleeder screw end. It makes it simple to bleed brakes by yourself. Just remember to pull the cap off of the tank first. I've found this works well on my '79 F-250.