Belt sander on large, flat surfaces?
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Elder User
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From: MN
Belt sander on large, flat surfaces?
I finnal picked up my "new" cap for my truck. It needs paint, and I am going to sand it down to bare metal. The top and sides are perfectly flat, so a belt sander would seem to be a good choice for removing the bulk of the paint before I finish with an orbital sander. Would this be safe, or would it cause problems?
Also, What grits do you guys reccomend? I read that I should use 80, then 120, 200, and finish with 320 before priming.
This is the type of cap i have if looking at a picture will help with your answer.
http://www.stahl.cc/coverall/sentinelcoverall.pdf
Thanks a lot.
Also, What grits do you guys reccomend? I read that I should use 80, then 120, 200, and finish with 320 before priming.
This is the type of cap i have if looking at a picture will help with your answer.
http://www.stahl.cc/coverall/sentinelcoverall.pdf
Thanks a lot.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Kentucky
I have used a belt sander a lot the last 36 years, but I dont think am good enough with one yet to sand a metal cab, without damaging the metal . 
The problem will be keeping consistent tracking pressure as to not let it cut "tracks" in the metal. As your arms tire, you may have the tendency not hold the pressure on the sander the same, possibly allowing it to cut the metal. Remember, paint will magnify imperfections in the substrate, not hide them. Your choice of sand paper is good, 80 is usually a good start for stripping paint. If you had a 4 or 7 in side grinder you could get stripper discs for it and really make the job easier. The orbital will do it fine, just takes longer, good luck
The problem will be keeping consistent tracking pressure as to not let it cut "tracks" in the metal. As your arms tire, you may have the tendency not hold the pressure on the sander the same, possibly allowing it to cut the metal. Remember, paint will magnify imperfections in the substrate, not hide them. Your choice of sand paper is good, 80 is usually a good start for stripping paint. If you had a 4 or 7 in side grinder you could get stripper discs for it and really make the job easier. The orbital will do it fine, just takes longer, good luck
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: South Texas
I agree, a belt sander would not be a good idea if you want a good looking paint job. Do you really need to take it down to bare metal? If the previous paint is not peeling or chiping, you could probably just scuff if up, re-primer and then paint it.
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Elder User
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From: MN
Do you really need to take it down to bare metal?
If you had a 4 or 7 in side grinder you could get stripper discs for it and really make the job easier.
Thanks guys
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Tucson
A belt sander? I can picture myself using one on that top. About half way through the job, I would pause in my motion; the sander would continue working and - PLOP right through the top and onto the ground! I say stick with the orbital sander.
jor
jor
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Kentucky
Originally Posted by natewoz
Unfortunately yes. The paint is oxidized and there is some surface rust. The cap has been sitting outside at a lumberyard for 4 years.
Are these the scochbrite type wheels?
Thanks guys
Are these the scochbrite type wheels?
Thanks guys
good luck
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Elder User
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From: MN
I tested ot the orbital today with some 100 grit I had laying around. Worked well, so I think I'll stick to that method.
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Elder User
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FYI- I did have a lot of luck using a belt sander for smoothing filler in the past then sanding with an orbital or hand to finish the job.
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