Front Rotors
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Front Rotors
Hi All...I'm thinking of replacing the bearings on the front wheels. Are races installed in the rotors and if so, inner or outer. I asked someone at the parts store and he said there was none listed. 95' 4.0
TIA
TIA
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Thanks for the reply. I know studs are pressed into the rotor which the lug nuts are fastened to when installing the wheel. What I'm referring to is the wheel bearins...are they accompanied by races which are installed inside the rotor before installing the bearings, then mounting the rotor onto the wheel spindle
Hope I'm making sense here.
TIA
Hope I'm making sense here.
TIA
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Ok on a 94 two wheel drive van (maybe 4whl but not sure) The inner and outer races are pressed into the rotor. When you buy a set of wheel bearings they should "should" come with the races as well. Make sure that you buy a new grease seal though. When removing the races from the rotors a small punch will work. And if on inspection of the rotors and races if the new or old races are loose in the rotor you must replace the rotor. Endplay should be about .002" when reassembled. Hope this helps.
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From: Ontario, Canada
it's true on the 4wd (and on front drive vehicles) the rotors just kind of sit on the studs, and are held on by the wheel, and berring replacement usally involves replacing a whole assembley. On RWD the rotors have the studs pressed in and the rotors are held on by the big bolt on the wheel spindle, which is where the berrings are...
to answer your question cawamor all rotors that I have seen have had the races "pre-installed" thats how my rotors I got a year ago were. I think that's how the make'em now.
to answer your question cawamor all rotors that I have seen have had the races "pre-installed" thats how my rotors I got a year ago were. I think that's how the make'em now.
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Thanks for the input guys. The new bearings (inner and outer) do come with new races. I used a punch to tap the old ones out of the rotors then installed the new set that came with the bearings. Another question...does anyone know the torque specification for the front wheel spindle nut '95 4.0? I have (or had) a helms repair manual somewhere but just can't find it.
TIA
TIA
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From the Haynes:
While spinning the wheel. torque nut to17 - 25 ft/pds. Loosen nut half turn. Tighten nut to 10 -15 inch-pounds, install cotter pin, if it doesn't line up, back nut off a bit.
Pages 1-3 & 1-24
While spinning the wheel. torque nut to17 - 25 ft/pds. Loosen nut half turn. Tighten nut to 10 -15 inch-pounds, install cotter pin, if it doesn't line up, back nut off a bit.
Pages 1-3 & 1-24
Last edited by BarryFS; Apr 30, 2004 at 09:39 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
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Originally Posted by BarryFS
From the Haynes:
While spinning the wheel. torque nut to17 - 25 ft/pds. Loosen nut half turn. Tighten nut to 10 -15 inch-pounds, install cotter pin, if it doesn't line up, back nut off a bit.
Pages 1-3 & 1-24
While spinning the wheel. torque nut to17 - 25 ft/pds. Loosen nut half turn. Tighten nut to 10 -15 inch-pounds, install cotter pin, if it doesn't line up, back nut off a bit.
Pages 1-3 & 1-24
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If you have a dial indicator check the play in the bearing at that point, it should be .002" Sometimes the procedures from torqueing the spindle nut and then loosening it like that don't leave the bearing with any end play or way too much, no endplay leaves the bearing smashed in on it's self, and too much endplay the bearing will be too loose and you will at the very least burn both bearings out to quickly.
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Originally Posted by jkorreck
If you have a dial indicator check the play in the bearing at that point, it should be .002" Sometimes the procedures from torqueing the spindle nut and then loosening it like that don't leave the bearing with any end play or way too much, no endplay leaves the bearing smashed in on it's self, and too much endplay the bearing will be too loose and you will at the very least burn both bearings out to quickly.
I'm not in possession of a dial indicator and even if I did, I wouldn't know how to use it. I torqued the spindle nuts to spec while spinning the rotors. I then guesstimate the tightness (or looseness for that matter) and just left it at that. I do know they are not too loose as before and they felt solid when checked by wiggling the wheel after having it mounted. Also both wheels spun freely when done by hand.
Took her for a test run after and there was absolutely no shaking while on freeway or under breaking. I also had the rotors turned and installed new pads while at it.
Thanks for all the suggestions guys
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