I'd like to receive an email picture of a Bendix PS pump mounting bracket. This is for '66 F250. While I wait for that dream Donor Truck to fall my way and provide a later, Ford power steering, might as well install the Bendix gear, pump and cooler that's on hand. Problem is, I don't have a bracket to mount the pump, and have no idea what one looks like. (This is what happens when you're breathing too fast at the swap meet!) If I could see one, maybe I could even make one. Thanks in advance, photographer.

 

I'd wait! Run the tire pressure at the max recommended by the tire manufacturer, grease the king pins and tie rods and drive it "armstrong" style. There are so many of the ford boxes out there I cannot understand why you would bother with the bendix?

 

I whole heartedly 2nd opinions of both William & BP/66, wait & get the Ford/ Saginaw style set up.

FWIW, The determining Factor on the Bracket is not so much which pump you run as it is what engine you want to bolt it on.

The pump to bracket connection will pretty much interface IF you have the correct pulley selection (so size, depth & alignment are correct for belt(s) system you have). But a FE, Y Block I-6 all take different Brackets. As do 302, 351W 351C, 351M/400 & 385 series engines. So there are 8 brackets that can interface with Bendix or Saginaw pumps but all are engine specific, AND Some may well be engine/year specific also.

Idea is, as you already said, use a DONOR truck, and I say get all pulleys/brackets/ hardware/etc for that system off that donor and install it as a system on your truck.
But Again. . . .wait for the FoMoCo / Saginaw set up. ALso FWIW. . . you can get a strg box & pump from anything, what's critical is the systems that drive & mount it and that's where the donor truck (or engine) comes in to the equation.

FORGET ABOUT "making" brackets. . . . it can be done but they are never quite worth all the work and never quite work right either.
FBp

 

Little Bro: Ford Boy Pete is PRECISELY the person you need to check this out.
I was assuming, by the way, that you have an FE motor.

FBP: Can you address the issue of using a later slipper pump on the Bendix box?
Thanks!
By the way, did you get the scanned pictures I sent you?

 

John, I sent ya 2 e-mails, one a day or so after I dnlod'd the graphics. I ran across a post asking about them, so I sent ya another e-mail this week end. Did you not get either? I used your msn Hotmail box, not the other one. . .

In any event, Yes Sir I did receive them and I thank you ever so kindly for Fwd'ng them. Aye yer' a good man Sir!

Now If "JO John", ever caught up with JCPURUT visa vie body difference imagery, I would "write up a tech sheet" using combined data to illustrate both body & frame differences. If that has not worked out, maybe I'll have to take my Digital & go looking for early & late slicks with the front clips off so I can make my own graphics.... mo' time & mo' work doncha know!

Plus I really want to write/ illustrate a schematic for plugging 65-79 center engine bay
X-Member and rear radius anchors into a 57-64 - 2Wd chassis, thus making it possible to stick split twin I's under one of them just like "whaddya callit" did over on Slick 60's. He said it also gave him a couple inches of drop too. I believe he was talking about 1/2 to 2/3 depth of a step well, so thats what 3-4 inches of lowering?

A lot of Limbo around here (my place, not FTE) huh?

On the BENDIX System the steering box req's higher & more constant pressure, while the later, FoMoCo/ Saginaw system is a fader. It uses variable PSI valving in the pump internally so as engine rpm increase, pressure slips or falls off providing "road feel".

Crossing pumps with boxes is not good because higher constant Bendix PSI tends to wipe out Saginaw boxes' Seals & Orings causing leaks from seepage to pouring fluid out. It depends on what the added PSI blows apart.

Putting FoMoCo/ Saginaw pump on a Bendix box makes for fair steering at Idle, unless there is some "load", then box may "chatter" as waves of PSI try to drive it. But once pump PSI fades, as engine RPMs increase, it's like driving a power steering that threw a belt, or blew out a pump. There just isn't enough PSI output to make box work correctly. . . It can get ruff to steer as well as slow to respond. Could be dangerous.
FBp

 

Thanks for all the background info and good advice. Wish I'd been better tuned in to FTE before the swapmeet. Well, it's boating season in Washington; maybe I'll go fishing. Got a Bendix anchor!

 

Hey Litle Bro,

Do the same thing with your Bendix pump that whoever you got it from did to you. or maybe offer it on eBay for a bit more than you paid for it. Somebody will bu it. In fact some folks are ready to argue Bendix is better.

This is a point most "Slicks guys" tend to dispute, and FoMoCo proved by dumping the technology after 2 or 3 years of production, like maybe 65 to 68 or so. By 1969 most F Series had gone to the better steering & handling variable PSI Saginaw/ FoMoCo system they still use that pump technology today even with rack & pinion.

Anway the point is somebody will buy it just as you did, probably because the guy you got it from went along the same path you find yourself on now. Clean it up a bit, don't paint it, just clean it well with a wire brush, screw plastic plugs into the hose holes, and sell it as a 65-67 Ford F Series, 2Wd, Bendix Power steering Box. that's honest and truthful. Just don't elaborate on the subject.

You may even get lucky and a real Bendix affecinado might buy it, ya never know, ya know? Whatever, like Woodsy Owl says "Give a Hoot, Don't Pollute" nix the anchor theme (Heh heh heh. . .)

FBp

 

Hey FBp! What kind of pictures of a '66 F100 did you need with the front clip off ? I happen to have one in my yard!! The engine is still in, but could get dimensions, pictures? and send to you. If I know what you want

Putt

 

Thanx for the offer Putt,
But I don't need later ones, I need earlier ones, like 61-64 & 4X4 type through 67 or 68. And what I need is pics of driverside cab mount & steering box area, where major differences occur between 61-4 & 65- later chassis. As well as where/how Support core mounts up, Plus a couple of where 3 point engine mounts are & how they work off the bellhousing & front engine block cradle.

Also I'd lay a yard stick along the frame to create a "scientific" pix with a "scale of reference" to make decisions with. The inches "register" translates into something one can refer to in order to get a scale of proportion when figuring stuff out off an image.

FBp