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Is it necessary to use intake to head gaskets in addition to the valley pan gasket when installing a new intake on my 351M? I'm trying to install the edelbrock 2171 intake to my stock (but rebuilt) heads and engine.
John
Last edited by Shorbino; Apr 12, 2004 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: left out 351M
Just the valley pan, the rubber block to intake strips and a dab of permatex on each of the four corners between the heads and block was how I was taught. If you have any rough casting on the head mating surface, you might put a thin layer of permatex on them as well, but you should be fine without the two manifold to head gaskets. Others chime in if you have suggestions. Good luck.
Whatever you do, don't put permatex around the ports... like previoulsy mentioned, this motor is a dry intake with no water ports... I removed an old Sp2p Edlebrock and replaced it with a performer and found a ton of gunk around the ports... this thing was leaking oil bad because of all the air leaks and mostly under the intake...
I think also Edelbrock recommends throwing away the rubber end seals and just putting a big ol' bead of sealant on the front and back edges.... I installed my new intake in this manner with good results.... I also used the Fel-Pro (I think) gaskets with a blue rubberized seal strip for the head to intake gasket... just smear little sealer in a few spots on the head surface to get the gasket to stick enough to lower the intake down on it and keep it from shifting...
As a matter of fact, I now have the motor pulled and stripped to the block for a rebuild... the intake was a real mother to get off it was sealed real good... I started wondering if I used JB Weld by mistake...
When I pulled my intake off of my 400, it was relatively easy. I just tapped on the sides with a hammer and off it came...the seals were a pain to get off...but not hard...
I just replaced the intake on my 400 use the valley pan gasket with the and use a dab of rtv or permatex on the four corners of the rubber gaskets just to help seal. Dont use any rtv on the pan I changed mine in 40 minutes didnt even have to pull the dizzy.
The Haynes manual that I purchased for the rebuild calls for "non-hardening gasket sealant" - I put that around the intake ports - will that be a problem?
Just to reiterate - no water flows through the intake at all, correct?
correct on the 351m and 400 they have no water in the intake the thermostat housing is directly mounted to block unlike the 460 where it is on the manifold. I wouldnt put anything on the manifold or heads the valley pan seals it just fine but thats my opinion others might have different suggestions if you already have it on and it runs fine I wouldnt bother re doin it.
I always thought the general rule of thumb was on air related parts no sealer and on oil and gas related use the sealer... sort of like teflon tape on air fittings, but not fuel or water???? Sorry, it's getting late....... anyhow whatever the gasket mfg. sez is always a good idea as there are many ideas as you can see.....
I have to respectfull disagree (as does Edelbrock):
from their web page:
"Coat head surface and both side of O.E.M. gaskets with Edelbrock Gasgacinch #9300. For aftermarket gaskets, follow gasket manufacturer's instructions. See Figure 7."
For the complete article: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ral_instr.html
Here is the Federal-Mogul Tech Line # for everone's shop phone book:
1-800-325-8886
Hank reccomends "high-tack" on the valley pan head/intake.
This is what I have been using for years with zero-failure rate.