K&N vs MAC
Is your white gauge white one of those indigos? I'm kinda hesitant in buying one 'cause I here that getting the needles back to where they were is difficult.
David
Is your white gauge white one of those indigos? I'm kinda hesitant in buying one 'cause I here that getting the needles back to where they were is difficult.
David
Yes, getting the needles back on is a royal pain. On I4 here, the state has a permanently installed radar speed device. I drove around six times to get my speedo right. There may be smarter ways to do it, but I ain't that smart.
I recommend getting your truck up to full temp and pressures. On a sheet of paper diagram where everything sits, including the tach. That will get those needles back on right provided you make sure it's up to temp and pressure before you put them back. Unless someone has a better idea or you know someone with a radar gun, the above is all I could think of.
They are sensitive to deal with.
IMO - It's worth it! Some of the folks from the links here have the overlay. Support our sponsors!
Louis
MAC Intake: $149.99
K&N Intake: $249.99
You really thing that $100 is going to give you more horsepower? If so, go with the K&N.
So in other words, the K&N might be bigger than MAC, thus giving you more power.
Garrett

No, the instructions aren't much, but what I gave above is the biggest part of it. To get the job done:
Don't forget to get your truck up to temp and pressure and make the diagram I mentioned in my previous post.
Remove the headlight switch. They say to disconnect the battery. Turn your headlights on. Pull the **** off your headlight switch and flip it 180 degress from the on position. Turn off you lights, push in and turn the **** clockwise. You can then just pull the switch assembly out. Unplug the switch.
Pull the plastic piece from around the steering column. It just pulls off.
There are two screws under there that secure the trim around the cluster. There is one where you pulled out the headlight switch and three across the top.
Six screws hold the cluster in. On a 97-98 there are three plugs on the back. On later models, there are two. If you have an auto tarnsmission, the indcator must be slipped out of the bottom of the cluster.
I'm having you remove the whole thing so you can remove the ILLUM lights as mentioned in my previous posting.
After you have it out, remove the clear plastic lense. Eight screws as I recall.
Use a fork to gently remove the needles.
Peel off the old face and carefully install the new one. Put the needles back but don't push them very far down at this point.
Leave the clear plastic lense off and reinstall the cluster.
The new face has an inverter for the backlight. Route the wire around and out through the headlight switch hole. Tap into the blue wire on the right side of the headlight connector for the positive connection and the black for ground.
Start your vehicle and let it get up to temp and pressure. Install the needles per the diagram I had you make in my previous post.
If you have a radar site like I do here, plug in your headlamp switch temporarily and go there. Otherwise, you can get some kind of estimate. Maybe someone else with a cell phone and get your speed that way. Maybe you know somebody with a radar gun.
Come home and put the lens back and put it all together. Decide where to mount the switch and dimmer for the new overlay. It comes with plenty of wire.
It's a project, but that's what it's all about. You say your not mechanicaly inclined. That worries me a bit for this project. It ain't an engine overhaul, but it ain't a wax job either. Maybe you know someone experienced who could help.
http://www.macperformance.com/store/...Product_ID=289
Since you are building a showtruck I posted a link as to what the MAC looks like. I absolutely love the look of it. Plus, it sounds very nice!
Anyhoot, the biggest difference you'll feel is from the chip, but I'm with you, I'd get the throttle body first. What size are you getting by the way?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I'll take any help I can get.
Tom




