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K&N vs MAC

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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 06:11 AM
  #16  
Inda Bonda's Avatar
Inda Bonda
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From: Kentucky
Hey Louis, where did you get your wood dash kit? I'm thinking about getting mine at Veneerz.com.

Is your white gauge white one of those indigos? I'm kinda hesitant in buying one 'cause I here that getting the needles back to where they were is difficult.

David
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 08:56 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Inda Bonda
Hey Louis, where did you get your wood dash kit? I'm thinking about getting mine at Veneerz.com.

Is your white gauge white one of those indigos? I'm kinda hesitant in buying one 'cause I here that getting the needles back to where they were is difficult.

David
I found my dash kit on good old eBay. It was cheaper than anywhere else I found. The item number is 2470885826. It was a dealer, so he has them continually at $153 your choice of finish.

Yes, getting the needles back on is a royal pain. On I4 here, the state has a permanently installed radar speed device. I drove around six times to get my speedo right. There may be smarter ways to do it, but I ain't that smart.

I recommend getting your truck up to full temp and pressures. On a sheet of paper diagram where everything sits, including the tach. That will get those needles back on right provided you make sure it's up to temp and pressure before you put them back. Unless someone has a better idea or you know someone with a radar gun, the above is all I could think of.

They are sensitive to deal with.

IMO - It's worth it! Some of the folks from the links here have the overlay. Support our sponsors!

Louis
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 08:58 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Jimmy Dean
I dont have a tach, so speedo would be centered, and because the plate would be a few inches in front of the speedo, only I could see it, so my passengers cant look over and complain about the speed. plus, the on hood tach would look awesome!
I agree, I like the hood tach idea. Please don't cause me to redo all the work I just did.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 12:12 PM
  #19  
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Inda Bonda
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What type of white face gauges did you get? Were the instructions easy to read? I'm asking all this cause I'm not mechanically incline so I want to get an idea how they are installed.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2004 | 03:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by true4.2
The general consensus is that the main difference is the price. Think about it...the MAC is has been dyno proven for 12.1 hp's. The K&N hasn't I don't think. BUT, the AirForce1 Intake has claimed an 18 hp increase, and it is just as much as the K&N intake. From personal experience, I can vouch for the MAC Intake in power, but intakes all do the same thing...take in air faster than stock. Take 20 different tubes and hook them up to your truck...all the same length and size, all the diameter, all the same shape...just different materials. Hook the MAF up to the tubing and attach the filter. That's the intake and nothing more. How much difference could all 20 tubes make in horsepower while using the same filter? I doubt if any.

MAC Intake: $149.99
K&N Intake: $249.99

You really thing that $100 is going to give you more horsepower? If so, go with the K&N.
Thats just the thing Joe. The filter is the key. Its been dyno proven that a big filter yields better gains. The K&N could simply be 1 inch longer, and produce more power. If you are looking to get a real BANG out of an intake, you better go the extra mile. Make an enclosure for the filter. Run it to the stock fender hole. Route some dryer hose into the fender. This will effectively give you "cooler" air. I can tell you this. My volant filter is 8x6x6. Much bigger than the MAC filter from what I understand. I most likely gained more from it than I would have the MAC.

So in other words, the K&N might be bigger than MAC, thus giving you more power.

Garrett
 
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 07:00 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Inda Bonda
What type of white face gauges did you get? Were the instructions easy to read? I'm asking all this cause I'm not mechanically incline so I want to get an idea how they are installed.
Check out eBay item 2463295388. These are the particular ones I got.

No, the instructions aren't much, but what I gave above is the biggest part of it. To get the job done:

Don't forget to get your truck up to temp and pressure and make the diagram I mentioned in my previous post.

Remove the headlight switch. They say to disconnect the battery. Turn your headlights on. Pull the **** off your headlight switch and flip it 180 degress from the on position. Turn off you lights, push in and turn the **** clockwise. You can then just pull the switch assembly out. Unplug the switch.

Pull the plastic piece from around the steering column. It just pulls off.

There are two screws under there that secure the trim around the cluster. There is one where you pulled out the headlight switch and three across the top.

Six screws hold the cluster in. On a 97-98 there are three plugs on the back. On later models, there are two. If you have an auto tarnsmission, the indcator must be slipped out of the bottom of the cluster.

I'm having you remove the whole thing so you can remove the ILLUM lights as mentioned in my previous posting.

After you have it out, remove the clear plastic lense. Eight screws as I recall.

Use a fork to gently remove the needles.

Peel off the old face and carefully install the new one. Put the needles back but don't push them very far down at this point.

Leave the clear plastic lense off and reinstall the cluster.

The new face has an inverter for the backlight. Route the wire around and out through the headlight switch hole. Tap into the blue wire on the right side of the headlight connector for the positive connection and the black for ground.

Start your vehicle and let it get up to temp and pressure. Install the needles per the diagram I had you make in my previous post.

If you have a radar site like I do here, plug in your headlamp switch temporarily and go there. Otherwise, you can get some kind of estimate. Maybe someone else with a cell phone and get your speed that way. Maybe you know somebody with a radar gun.

Come home and put the lens back and put it all together. Decide where to mount the switch and dimmer for the new overlay. It comes with plenty of wire.

It's a project, but that's what it's all about. You say your not mechanicaly inclined. That worries me a bit for this project. It ain't an engine overhaul, but it ain't a wax job either. Maybe you know someone experienced who could help.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 08:09 AM
  #22  
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I know a couple of people who could help with this. It does sound like it's involved. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 10:51 AM
  #23  
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It's a project, but that's what it's all about.
Spoken like a true enthusiast! Hey, I can't wait to see what you've done with the truck! You'll be especially happy with the MAC intake.

http://www.macperformance.com/store/...Product_ID=289

Since you are building a showtruck I posted a link as to what the MAC looks like. I absolutely love the look of it. Plus, it sounds very nice!

Anyhoot, the biggest difference you'll feel is from the chip, but I'm with you, I'd get the throttle body first. What size are you getting by the way?
 
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Old Apr 11, 2004 | 01:47 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by true4.2
What size are you getting by the way?
Now you got me. To the best of my recollection, I've only seen one around here discussed for the 4.2.

I'll take any help I can get.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 07:49 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Lcashmer
I fully intend to start taking her to shows.
Make sure you buy her some popcorn and one of those huge vats of soda before the movie starts. Those nachos with the cheese dip are really yummy too, i'm sure she'll love those, unless she's watching her weight. Mine perfers sporting events, like hockey, but she's kind of fat, so I have to pay for 2 seats for her, and she eats about 50 bucks in hot dogs

Tom
 
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 07:53 AM
  #26  
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use both of um at the same time......show stopper dude
 
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