Stalling Problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Stalling Problem
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 5.4L with 106,000 mi. I runs great with one exception. Once in a while when I have been driving it in a certain throttle position for some time (like going down the freeway), when I let off of the throttle it will just idle down and stall. Once it does that it will continue to stall every time I allow it to until I shut it down for a while. It only does this occasionally. Someone please help. 
Thank You in advance. 
Thank You in advance.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,918
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Originally Posted by Ford356
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 5.4L with 106,000 mi. I runs great with one exception. Once in a while when I have been driving it in a certain throttle position for some time (like going down the freeway), when I let off of the throttle it will just idle down and stall. Once it does that it will continue to stall every time I allow it to until I shut it down for a while. It only does this occasionally. Someone please help. Thank You in advance.
Thank You in advance.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,918
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Originally Posted by rednexandbeer
hey i have a question abouit a 1990 f 150 can any one here help me out?
And gee mil1ion,your fast,by the time I read this in gc and typed in my reply you had already moved it.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Hi there,
Thank you for your response. Where would the carbon build up be? I believe that my friend who I bought the truck from changed the idle air control. After it stalls the check engine light is on but when I start it up it goes away. What kind of codes do I need to get? Also, to save myself from sounding like an idiot when I go to Autozone, what exactly do I ask for?
Thank You
Thank you for your response. Where would the carbon build up be? I believe that my friend who I bought the truck from changed the idle air control. After it stalls the check engine light is on but when I start it up it goes away. What kind of codes do I need to get? Also, to save myself from sounding like an idiot when I go to Autozone, what exactly do I ask for?
Thank You
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,918
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
When you go to autozone,just tell them you are having problems with your truck and ask them to pull the codes for you,they will know what you are talking about,dont worry,they wont think you are dumb.It takes a scanner to pull the codes from your ECM=Electronic Control Module,and my scanner cost over $2,000 so,they realize that the average guy who wants to fix his own truck is not likely to own one.They are happy to do this for you because,afterall you will probably need a part or two,so it is good for their biz.And for the carbon question,it may have something to do with carbon build-up on the egr valve,making it stick open,which it is not supposed to do when returning to Idle.The EGR system is used to help reburn exhaust gases to lower emmisions,but only works after the engine is warm and above a certain RPM.If the valve is stuck open at idle,it will let exhaust gases smother the air fuel mix and cause a stall problem.But there are alot of other things it could be too.Like a flat or dead spot in the TPS=Throttle Posistion Sensor,but I dont want to overwelm you or send you in the wrong direction,so try and get the codes first.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, Oklahoma
On the carbon issue, carbon also builds up directly below the EGR Valve
in the EGR ports. The two dime-sized ports completely close up with carbon.
You will find multiple threads addressing this fix, do a search.
If you change the EGR, clean the ports. Changing the EGR is pretty easy, cleaning
the ports is harder, because you have to remove the throttle body.
Did mine last week, changed the EGR Valve,
cleaned the EGR ports, changed the IAC, new alternator.
Runs pretty good again. Cleared the codes one by one with new parts
and EGR port maintenance. It was worth every bit of effort in exchange
for personal satisfaction and lots of saved dough.
in the EGR ports. The two dime-sized ports completely close up with carbon.
You will find multiple threads addressing this fix, do a search.
If you change the EGR, clean the ports. Changing the EGR is pretty easy, cleaning
the ports is harder, because you have to remove the throttle body.
Did mine last week, changed the EGR Valve,
cleaned the EGR ports, changed the IAC, new alternator.
Runs pretty good again. Cleared the codes one by one with new parts
and EGR port maintenance. It was worth every bit of effort in exchange
for personal satisfaction and lots of saved dough.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SuperDutyScaler
1999 - 2016 Super Duty
19
Jun 27, 2014 10:29 AM
94rangersplash
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
4
Dec 1, 2011 07:40 PM