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I an driving a '01 F-350 Lariat SC with a V-10 auto, and continue to experience poor output performance with my A/C.... Although I'm now out of warranty, I presented this problem to my dealer on several occasions and they put the temp guage at the louver vent and always told me ---the temp at the vent was "within specs" --- Has anyone else experienced A/C problems where the cooling down period just seems to take forever?
I love my truck and am considering another in the fall....however, it would be nice to know that the A/C performance has been improved..
Comments?
My AC is broke in my 2001 f250, at least i think it is. Maybe ill leave it on awhile to see if it gets cold. It hasnt been to much of a problem so ive ignored it but was going to post it soon seeing as summer was coming.
My '00 is the same way. Being a CC doesn't help matters any either. There are MANY engine upgrades out there. Sure would be nice to see a hi-perf mod for the AC.........
The AC on my '03 250 CC V10 will freeze me out on an average summer day in Michigan (85-ish). Hot/humid days (100-ish) I'm comfortable enough to turn the blower down from full blast.
It does take a while to cool down that big cab, but it does happen.
do a search here or over at ford-trucks for heater bypass mod.... The coolant flows all the time through the core adding heat. If you shut off the flow temps supposedly come down.
i have had the same sort of problems with my truck ever since i bought it, one thing you cane check is the r-34 level in the system, one thing i learned is you cannot just fill these systems up(unlike the old r-12 freon systems) there needs to be a certain amount of refridgerent in the system for it to work right. you can go to an auto parts store and get an r-34 gauge(its like a tire pressure gauge) and check your system. also the new r-34 does not and never will work as good as the old r-12.
My '03 CC A/C works great, Usually passengers ask me to turn it off cuz their "High-Beams" are on LOL I love having women in my truck always works like a charm
Got this info here
Lots of good info there. Good luck
Mike
AC MOD
It will stop the flow of hot water through the heater core when the AC controlls are in the MAX setting and the OFF position providing cooler temps and preventing the hot pocket of air down by you feet. I went to NAPA and asked for the 'hot water shut off valve' from a 1990 Ford Ranger with a 4.0 V-6, I also got 4 - 5/8 hose clamps, a couple feet of 1/8" vaccume line a a 1/8" plastic "T" for the vaccume line. To begin the install loosen the cap on the radiator overfill to remove pressure from the system (do this while the engine is cool). On the passenger side of the engine compartment there are 2 - 5/8" hoses that come from the firewall and continue to the engine, these are the heater hoses. Cut the hose closest to the drivers side (It does'nt really matter where, I did mine about 6 inches after the fire wall). Then holding the 'shut off valve' with the vaccume controller twards the pass side install the portion of the heater hose coming from the cab to the top left nipple on the 'shut off valve'. Tighten the clamp. Install the portion of the heater hose coming from the engine to the top right nipple and tighten the clamp. Next cut the heater hose closest to the pass side in the same location as the previous. Install the portion coming from the cab on the lower left nipple, tighten the clamp. Now install the portion going to the engine on the lower right and tighten the clamp. Measure out how much of the 1/8" vaccume line you need to reach from the bottom of the vaccume canister on the shut off valve to the white vaccume line on the pass side that goes to the vaccume operated door underneath the pass side cowl. Cut that white vaccume line and splice in the 1/8" plastic "T". Then run the 1/8" vaccume line you meassured out from that plastic "T" to the nipple on the bottom of the vaccume canister on the shut off valve. It sounds more complicated than it is. Once you do it it will seem real simple.