Mud in the carb
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 330
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From: Newhall,CA
K&N makes polyester materail wraps for filters that are supposed to help repel water. They call them prechargers, or drychargers for the water repelent ones. I have used these on my ATV for about 2 years and they work great to keep the filters clean, but I don't know how well they help with water. Check it out: http://www.knfilters.com/wraps.htm
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Originally Posted by proeliator
Hmmmm, I thought that 20' brown spray had nothing to do with the fans but more to do with the moment you realized how deep the hole was 
Oh, and guys I know have had problems with those "panty hose" type wraps.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by proeliator
Oh, and guys I know have had problems with those "panty hose" type wraps.
As for the brown spray . . . I'm not even going there. Hey, while we have an old thread dug up what's going on with your bling valve covers? They'll go great with your new light . . . just need to get them on there.Are you just talking about the K&N prefilters Smitty or are these something different? I still need to get that hood to test the cowl induction but I should probably get the truck running first.
I'll move the ignition into the cab this week if I get a few minutes and that should solve all my electronic woes.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
The bling valve covers are still a shelf ornament. I'll have to get real drunk before I bolt something that looks that nice onto my engine. Ohhh, the agony!
Judging by the pics of your dash I'd say your electronic woes have just begun
Judging by the pics of your dash I'd say your electronic woes have just begun
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by proeliator
The bling valve covers are still a shelf ornament. I'll have to get real drunk before I bolt something that looks that nice onto my engine. Ohhh, the agony!
Judging by the pics of your dash I'd say your electronic woes have just begun
Judging by the pics of your dash I'd say your electronic woes have just begun
Or option #2 is send them to me and I'll trade you for some really cool blue covers. 
I'm trying to decide where exactly to mount the ignition and timing control. Still need to build a glove box so I thought it might be cool to have a false back to it that I could remove for access to the ignition. Otherwise there should be a lot of space behind the radio and heater controls. I just want to make sure they're up high enough to be safe if I take on water.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
I run those K&N prechargers on the race truck and love em no water through to the carb, and 15 min later I take it off, and shake it and all the mud falls off walla clean filter again
And Ivan radiator in the bed with a blocked off grill does help alot for one no fan in the front to kick the mud up, and too you will stay cooler because the radiator doesn't fill up with mud either, and I used a piece of sheet metal (you could use stainless, and polish it up if you wanted to) on top of the frame rails from the bottom of the grill to the motor mount frame perches and just cut it out around the front of the engine keeps about 90% of the mud out, infact the only mud I usually get on my engine comes down through the header holes in the hood
And Ivan radiator in the bed with a blocked off grill does help alot for one no fan in the front to kick the mud up, and too you will stay cooler because the radiator doesn't fill up with mud either, and I used a piece of sheet metal (you could use stainless, and polish it up if you wanted to) on top of the frame rails from the bottom of the grill to the motor mount frame perches and just cut it out around the front of the engine keeps about 90% of the mud out, infact the only mud I usually get on my engine comes down through the header holes in the hood
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
I'm just not prepared to go with a rear mount radiator on my truck yet. Give me another year to completely corrupt myself and then we'll talk about it. I have been considering the guard under the grill to block some if that junk that flies up between the radiator and motor. Just haven't got around to it yet.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
Likes: 9
From: iowa
well I will help corrupt you I ran my upper radiator hose using AN-20 braided line, just think bling bling, plus you can use an aluminum radiator more bling when polished
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by ivanribic
I'm just not prepared to go with a rear mount radiator on my truck yet.
Sounds like we run the same setup for rear mount rads and sealing off the engine bay with sheet metal, Monster. Ja, it works great.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
I'm just not up for losing my bed right now. That may change if I get another truck for hauling little junk. I also like having the toolbox back there which may house nitrous or rear hydro pump or who knows later on.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
Originally Posted by proeliator
Actually, as booty-fab as that sounds, yea. Its an old trick....run your filter intake into the cab for mud free air. Generally use dryer hose. Not the best choice for a cold intake charge but the best choice for a guarenteed contaminate free charge. I did this on a '73 blazer I had and it worked great.
CAI? Just crank the AC up on high. Course..you lose more on the AC pump...but its all the same. ^_^
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,871
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From: Coutts Canada
Hey Ivan ever think of using someting like this (the piece of canvass hanging down in the front)
I just used a piece of swather canvass cut to a lenght so that when in the mud it will go back to engine crossmember, since i've done all the canvass work to that truck i have yet to get any mud in there. The engine gets muddier from washing the truck off than anything else. And all that holds it in there are the 3 body mount screws with sheet metal washers for extra strenght, and if you wanted you could drill and put 3 screws across the front, then for the mud y ou just screw the canvass on, then when you are done justremove the three screws.
I just used a piece of swather canvass cut to a lenght so that when in the mud it will go back to engine crossmember, since i've done all the canvass work to that truck i have yet to get any mud in there. The engine gets muddier from washing the truck off than anything else. And all that holds it in there are the 3 body mount screws with sheet metal washers for extra strenght, and if you wanted you could drill and put 3 screws across the front, then for the mud y ou just screw the canvass on, then when you are done justremove the three screws.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
I've seen people use the canvas but I've never done it myself. Seems like a good idea though. I guess you could mount the canvas to a bracket and use some quick pull pins to throw it up there when you go offroad. I still want to try and build a metal plate underneath for when I'm stupid and don't want to spend the time to hang canvas. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,871
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From: Coutts Canada
I've seen a guy at the last bog i went to use the same thing monsterbaby said, it worked wonders and looked very good, but he used some type of black plastic then he pop riveted it into place, i got a picture of it somewhere, i'll see if i can dig it up here. Oh and thata canvass job only took 10 minutes to do anyway.