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If you have a stock setup that comes in from the right front fender, a big screen (1/4 in spacing) just inside the radiator intake part and a fine metal mesh screen just inside the hose on the beginning of the uphill/incline part of the hose will prevent a lot of stuff from reaching the aircleaner. Just make it easy to change and remove so you do not leave it in for normal driving, otherwise it will be clogged fast with bugs and stuff.
We have used one of the snorkels from an old (82-86) mustang, and routed it through the body of the heater fan. It goes right into the cab, we remove the glove box. You silicone the air cleaner to the carb (at the base so you can still remove the top) and use stiff plastic tube to the snorkel and no more mud in the carb. It takes about half an hour.
Pretty soon we'll have you hanging some flexible hose off the snout, and routing it back through the firewall into the cab. You might as well give it up now...theres no turning back...you've become strong with the dark side
hmmmmm. I haven't thought of running the snorkel into the cab! this is interesting. sounds like I may have me a new project. you think a round tupperware cake box (with blue's glue around the bottom) and dryer hose would suffice?
Actually, as booty-fab as that sounds, yea. Its an old trick....run your filter intake into the cab for mud free air. Generally use dryer hose. Not the best choice for a cold intake charge but the best choice for a guarenteed contaminate free charge. I did this on a '73 blazer I had and it worked great.
i think i might try that then! i have always just5 seen the snorkel come up the winshield pillar and I think it looks a lil tacky but thats me (course look at my truck)
Yea, and running that snorkle method you still get your filter coated with mud. Or maybe thats just the way I sling mud. If you really want to keep it clear run it in-cab.
I almost chopped into my firewall today to start on cab snorkel but I had a thought. Next year I plan to put a blower on and I'd like to be set up for that instead of trying to figure it out all over again. I bought a 5" cowl induction scoop so I'm going to try that trick first. If the scoop gives me enough clearance I can just cut a larger hole in the hood to make room for the blower and then build some sort of seal. I think I'm still going to work on a flap system for the scoop, to close it off. If all else fails it'll be time for the snorkel.
The good thing about all this mess is I'm faster than ever at pulling and replacing my intake and am not too shabby at a basic carb cleaning either. Got it all back together and now she runs like a raped ape. Hopefully I'll get the electric fan in this weekend and see if that makes a difference for me.
Ya know you could always just seal off your whole engine compartment if you wanted to. I have seen people use plexiglass, aluminum, and canvas to seal off the whole engine compartment. Then to seal any small cracks you could use spray expandable foam. Alot of people do this in the mudbogs that we have around here...just a though.
Well if I wanted to get really fancy I could do like Pro and get my radiator out of there and then close up the whole front end but that's too much work for me. I'm thinking I'll try blocking my grill off just while I'm offroad and see how that works. I've got real temp guages now so I'll actually be able to see what's going on up there. I was scared to do this before because my stock guage was such a POS I did't know if it was heating up or not.
I thought of closing the grill off, too, but the mud will still come in from the bottom. We spent an hour last summer flying through 8" deep mud/water holes. The front of my radiator and grill were spotless but the engine looked like your photos - totally caked.
I think a lot of it splashed off the inside of the tires and onto the firewall, and some hit the fan from underneath. The fan was very efficient at distributing muddy water to every inch of the engine compartment.
Maybe I'll pull my hood and install dual fans facing straight up so when I hit the mud it will shoot a brown spray 20' into the air. Yeah, you're totally right about the fan spraying that crap all around. Electric is going to be nice . . . I'm just impatient. Another idea I had was to keep the truck out of the damn mud . . . maybe cruising the mall parking lot or something. Hmm, nah.
Seems like there would be a lot of tricky work involved at closing in the bottom to keep that junk out. I can live with a dirty engine (can't believe I spent all that $$ on bling parts . . . I'm an idiot!) as long as it keeps running.
I hear ya on the bling parts. I almost bought chrome everything for under the hood. Luckily I went wheelin' first and saw what it looked like after just a few hours. Heck, I even felt dump for painting the valve covers.
I think I'll spray everything under the hood that military tan color. Then you'll never know if it's dirty or not.
Only thing I will say is chromed parts clean up a hell of a lot easier than painted surfaces but still, it kind of defeats the whole purpose. Oh well, now people can laugh at me and my wannabe bling.
Maybe I'll pull my hood and install dual fans facing straight up so when I hit the mud it will shoot a brown spray 20' into the air.
Hmmmm, I thought that 20' brown spray had nothing to do with the fans but more to do with the moment you realized how deep the hole was
I really try to avoid bling on my truck. I'm terribly depressed because I can't get my stock valvecovers to seal well so I went and dropped $230 on custum Blue Thunder aluminum valve covers. Now I've got bling, dammit. Nobodies even going to be able to see them way up there! Ah well, I'd rather go bling than go hoopty and just seal my vc's with silicone. Nothing wrong with that, but gets old to deal with that gunk while your pulling the covers on and off.
Ivan, when i was talking about sealing the whole engine compartment off i was talking the bottom, wheel wells, and all around the engine. Yeah it is kind of tricky but it keeps ALL mud and nearly all water out. You have to make some kind of a door so that you can drop your oil when needed. Using plexiglass is probably the cheapest and easiest way to do it. Then just seal all of the cracks with expandable foam.
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