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To shut the truck off you can pull the primary lead from the ignition coil ( Not the high voltage lead) or just go to the fuse box and pull the ignition or fuel pump fuse (the fuel pump fuse is under the hood).
I tried to replace the linkage myself but it was too challenging. I had a Ford dealer do it. It cost me about $900. The two linkage parts are cheap, but they replaced some other parts also. It works fine now. Fortunately I have not had too many expenses with this truck. This was apparently a bad design.
Thanks, I actioned the cog and arm and could get the engine to start, It was the shut off that was the problem. I pulled the 30A interior fuse for the coil to kill it.
The solution was replacing the switch $13.95, Dealer Labor $350. Ouch!!!
I was not comfortable working with a steering wheel w/ an airbag, and cruise control. I could just see myself inflating the bag with my face too close. Thanks for the reply
Thanks for this thread. I think it's exactly my problem, except that my wheel doesn't tilt. So instead of the pin linking your two actuator rods, I'm guessing my actuator rod is one peice, and is probably broken. My switch and lock cylinder seem ok, but the linkage does not. I'll use your excellent writeup and modify for my non-tilting wheel.
Sounds like the same problem. If you remove the plastic facade and the metal plate at the driver's knees you can drop the actual ignition switch. You can start and stop the truck using the actual switch until you fix the linkage.
Read the postings in this thread about how a fixed the linkage and of course price it out at the dealer or your mechanic.
How do I start my truck from the ignition switch itself? I need it to start to get it to the shop to get the actuator rods done. Thanks