Odd ignition cylinder question, do you need it?
#1
Odd ignition cylinder question, do you need it?
I dont have the cylinder ignition key in the steering, Someone twisted it with pliers,and the idiots did it when the keys where in it. I pulled it out in order for the tow company could steer it and take it outta park. After getting it here I found out the motor was locked up, After a couple of days with the cylinders soaking in Seafoam Deep Creep, the motor broke free, and spins free again, After buying a used holley and rebuilding it.(The holley 750 that was on it was completely rusted shut, and never could get it unlocked)
It seems like it wants to catch and run, but the spark seems on the light side, (I have one of the spark tester that goes inline, with a bulb) I was just wondering if it had anything to do with the key lock not being in the steering. I have been using pliers and pushing down the rod on top of the steering. It does let me have turn signals and wipers and blower motor turn on when i put rod in the run position, even dash lights, but non of the gauges seem to work. I am also pulling all the smog off along with the 100 vacuum lines except the the main ones I need. thanks, Oh the truck in my signature
It seems like it wants to catch and run, but the spark seems on the light side, (I have one of the spark tester that goes inline, with a bulb) I was just wondering if it had anything to do with the key lock not being in the steering. I have been using pliers and pushing down the rod on top of the steering. It does let me have turn signals and wipers and blower motor turn on when i put rod in the run position, even dash lights, but non of the gauges seem to work. I am also pulling all the smog off along with the 100 vacuum lines except the the main ones I need. thanks, Oh the truck in my signature
#2
you can always remove the two 11mm nuts holding the ignition switch on top of steering column under dash. Bring switch out pass side of column (working the push rod that fires it) out as you pull switch to pass side of topside of column. Take phillips head or whatever, insert in hole in middle and cycle it that way to see if you're getting full stroke. You can run through all the positions on the switch without it mounted to column, accy, lock, run, crank by using a small rod or screwdriver to push that switch part in the middle. takes about 10 minutes to get switch off column, little more aggravating to get back on, because you have to hit the hole in the middle with the push rod, and then line up the 2 mounting screws and get switch to go back down on those while maintaining push rod location in switch tab or hole.
#3
and since your ignition switch is tore all to hell, you could in theory leave your switch hanging above your gas foot like that and use the truck for awhile. The screwdriver or probe does all same functions as ign key tumber did, BUT, you won't have a locked column. So, someone could technically turn your trucks steering wheel and put in neutral and roll it off.
#5
#7
Trending Topics
#9
If you want to see if it will run, why not run a jumper wire over to the coil + wire from the battery + terminal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Bootlegger's Deluxe
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
31
12-14-2015 10:34 PM
gp42gpw
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
11-01-2007 02:06 PM
Jarrett T
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
02-19-2004 11:13 PM