Hello Everyone, I just picked up a new daily driver, a 1991 F150, 5.0, auto, 4x4. the previous owner sold it due to concerns about the steering column not being "right".

heres what i have.

when you turn the key tumbler forward ( the column lower molding is removed, so i can see the rod in front of the cluster) the rod moves forward, but not enough to activate the "ON" position. if i turn the key forward, an d then reach down and push the rod a hair furthur, it will go into the "ON" position, the dash lights will light up, etc. Also, the previous owner bypassed the starter solenoid with a momentary switch to actually start the truck. the method of turning the key on, wiggling the rod for a second, then hitting the switch is working, but it far from ideal in my situation.

turning the key back to the normal "OFF" position shuts the truck off, no issues there.

Now, im not overly great with steering columns, or wiring in general, but i can do testing ( i have a power probe, and know how to use it) and am open for any and all suggestions. here are a few random thoughts that came to mind for me.

1) key tumbler assembly is worn to the point of not fully engaging and pushing the rod.

2) the switch on the bottom of the rod (i dont know what its called, but i know its on the top of the column, and it has a wiring harness plugged onto it.) is faulty. This is my first guess, to be honest.

3)one of the many other moving parts has failed in the column.

So, will someone with a bit more experience chip in on this subject, and point me in the right direction??

Thanks, Lee

 

I was having a similar issue, but I had trouble getting the engine to crank (I had to use both hands to twist the key far enough) and every other position was "sloppy". The switch itself is two pieces, one plastic one metal, with the metal side "crimped" around the plastic to hold it together. Mine was coming apart making the switch faulty. I also discovered the mounting holes for it were slotted, allowing for alot of adjustment. I would guess it could be the faulty switch, or the mounting nuts have loosened up enough to push the hole switch forward and is now too far away to contact the start position.

I hope my wording makes sense.

I was able to find a photo of the faulty switch on google.

 

you are referring to the switch on the column, on the bottom of the rod, correct? what is the actual name for that switch?

 

From what you describe MAYBE you are LUCKY and the actuator rod that connects the key tumbler to the ignition switch is not broken. A big job to replace that. The switch on the bottom of the rod is the ignition switch.

First I would see if the ignition switch is loose and will slide. If not loose I would loosen the bolt(I think) and slide the switch as far toward the steering wheel as possible. Then maybe replace the ignition switch next. You get the idea from there. I'm sure others will chime in.

Sure hope that actuator rod isn't broken. Good luck.

 

Ya I was talking about the ignition switch.

As 88n94 said, make sure the rods from the lock clear to the switch are not broken or bent in any way. If not then check the adjustment on the ignition switch. If not these make sure the switch isn't coming apart.

 

as i stated earlier, I casn see the rod move with turning the key tumbler. the action is smooth and doesnt feel like there is any binding or other breakage. It actually feels like one of the tighter ignition tumblers i have come across.

I will drop the column down and see if the ignition switch is damaged, out of adjustment, or loose. If an adjustment is all that is needed to remedy the issue, then i will be a very happy guy. I can cross it off my list and move onto other issues in the truck.

Thanks again guys, keep the ideas coming, and i will keep trying them out!

 

from your description it does not sound like the ignition switch is your problem.
it sounds more like the ignition actuator is broke in the top of the column. this is a common issue with these older trucks, the good thing is the part only costs around $15.

 

Just got done doing this one myself the actuator was broken common thing not a bad job a few videos out there one will show you how to grind the new one so you do not have to take the whole thing apart.

 

i will look into the actuator as well. is there a particular video on youtube you gentlemen would suggest to give me the best results?

 

I followed this guy worked great just used my grinder to do the job go slow.

 

just playing the "what if" game before I tear apart my column... if the actuator rod is broken, will the truck still be able to shut off if you turn the key back?

 

It doesn't seem like the truck would be able to shut off if the actuator is broken. If you haven't tried adjusting the switch back toward the steering wheel, I would try that to see if the dash lights will come on without pushing the rod. If that doesn't work I would unbolt the switch, then you should be able to feel the movement of the actuator rod in relation to the key movement.

 

Yes. Mine broke at the gas station after refueling. I was able to get it running by jumping the starter solenoid but couldn't get the shifter out of park. I went through the column cleaning and replacing the actuator and ignition switch. Now it is spot on when turning the key and moves just like it did back in 1991! Well worth taking the time to do it all.

 

ok, i was just pondering it while i was building my exhaust for the truck today. thanks for the info, im more confident that this is the issue.

Is this a dealer only part, or can it be sourced elsewhere?

 

I'm not sure if you're asking about the switch or the actuator rod. They can be purchased cheaper elsewhere BUT I would definitely spend the extra money and get genuine Ford parts. Some parts are okay to cheap out on and some aren't.