Inline 6cyl. HELP!!!
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From: Virginia
Inline 6cyl. HELP!!!
I have a 1981 F100 Custom and was recently experiencing a sputtering troblem at acceleration.I replaced the Carb.,fuel filter,fuel pump,starter,starter relay,voltage regulator,all gaskets,and today a new performance coil.I have gotten it to start but it will not stay idle.I thought maybe "timing" and set it to spec via. Chilton by rotating the crank to 6 deg. BTDC and aligned rotor with the distributor.Now,as I turn the egine over it will not start and is blowing fuel form the top of the carb like it is burping it out.That's the easiest way for me to explain it.I'm lost and don't know what to do next.Can anyone please help me?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
First off -- try this. The float or needle may be stuck one the rebuilt carb. This will cause vastly too much gas, that then bubbles out the float bowel vent tube. Take a piece of wood, like a hammer handle, and thump on the area of the carb over the float bowel. I assume you have a Carter YFA, based on the year. You need to jiggle the needle loose -- they get stuck after a while.
Rebuilt carbs are NOTORIOUS for being junk. Hope you bought from a reputable place. If that doesn't help, I'd start by getting a different one. Many folks will suggest that you throw in the towel and buy a rebuild kit and rebuild it yourself -- not really that hard, as I understand it. But I havn't personally done that either, so caveat emptor.
Rebuilt carbs are NOTORIOUS for being junk. Hope you bought from a reputable place. If that doesn't help, I'd start by getting a different one. Many folks will suggest that you throw in the towel and buy a rebuild kit and rebuild it yourself -- not really that hard, as I understand it. But I havn't personally done that either, so caveat emptor.
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From: Virginia
The carb I bought the first time did the same thing so I thought I just got a bad rebuilt carb.I took it back and returned it for another and it is still doing the same thing.Another question though,to get the #1 cyl. TDC I took out the #1 plug,inserted a screw driver and manually turned the crank until the cylinder was all the way up,right before it going back down I stopped and set the distributor, I also tried it by Chiltons by turning the crank until the timing mark lined up 6deg. BTDC and set the distributor and I get the same results either way.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Parkville, MO (KC)
Those methods are good for getting basic timing and verifying that the timing mark is not off completely. But I think you should get a timing light for the fine work.
I don't see how timing is going to shoot gas out of your carb though,
I don't see how timing is going to shoot gas out of your carb though,
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Beaverlodge, Alberta
I had a simular problem with mine after I added my new cam. I found that the rocker nuts had backed off and some of my valves weren't opening causing it to blow back through the intake. I replaced them and tightened them back down and all was good.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston TX
. Chilton by rotating the crank to 6 deg. BTDC and aligned rotor with the distributor.
I wonder about this for one thing... Normally, you set the crank to TDC "#1 piston up" and then set the rotor position. Not at 6 deg BTDC. You should set the base timing to 6 deg once running with a light. Remember to unhook the vacuum advance when you set timing. It's possible for a carb to mimick this type of problem, but to me, it sounds timing related. Make sure the gear pin is not sheared on the base of the distributor, things like that...Make sure the little wires in the distributor are not frayed, etc...Timing problems can make a carb spit, and also backfire. If the valves were too loose, you would have noticed an awful clacking before this happened. Pretty unlikely...MK
I wonder about this for one thing... Normally, you set the crank to TDC "#1 piston up" and then set the rotor position. Not at 6 deg BTDC. You should set the base timing to 6 deg once running with a light. Remember to unhook the vacuum advance when you set timing. It's possible for a carb to mimick this type of problem, but to me, it sounds timing related. Make sure the gear pin is not sheared on the base of the distributor, things like that...Make sure the little wires in the distributor are not frayed, etc...Timing problems can make a carb spit, and also backfire. If the valves were too loose, you would have noticed an awful clacking before this happened. Pretty unlikely...MK
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
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From: The Big, Oregon
Run a temporary ground from the distributor to the battery negative terminal. I had similar symptoms a while back, and it turned out to be a bad gound.
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From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
Do a compression check on all Cyl's. By the way I took 4 remand carbs to make me replace it carter with a 4bbl and intake!
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From: Kalispell, MT
Originally posted by 300inline6
I found that the rocker nuts had backed off and some of my valves weren't opening causing it to blow back through the intake. I replaced them and tightened them back down and all was good.
I found that the rocker nuts had backed off and some of my valves weren't opening causing it to blow back through the intake. I replaced them and tightened them back down and all was good.
MontanaFord
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From: Virginia
Well,I sent her to the shop today.I tried everything I could and got nothing.I can't wait to here what the Mech tells me.Thanks to everyone who replied!I will keep you posted on the outcome.
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