Rough idle at start up....
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From: Moore, SC
Rough idle at start up....
First post for me. Here goes. I have a 03' PS diesel 6.0L with 5,100 miles on it. After first oil change/service it has started to have a rough idle at cold start-up. After it has warmed out it smoothes out and runs fine until it sets again for several hours. It is getting worse and worse and worse to the point now where I wonderif it will stay running after starting. Any ideas?
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Same thing for me at 5000/1st chg. Dealer put the Motorcraft 15/40 and began rough idle an hour later. Knew it had to be the oil weight so I lived with it till 10k oil chg. These motors have 10/30 from the factory and the motor is sensitive to the viscosity. Heard of good results with a 5/40 but I could only find it in a synthetic. That's alright considering the extra 5 grand we all spent. All my rough idle problems are gone and it starts much quicker, obviously because it's thin when cold. I happen to use the Chevron Delo but had to get it through the local distributor because the 5/40 is really hard to come by. I'd trust Mobil or Rotella's 5/40 syn also... just make sure it's rated for diesels.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Central Texas
How much oil are you putting in the crancase after oil change? We are finding that 15 quarts on a change is too much and is overfilling the crankcase causing the oil to foam from too close proximity to the crank. Some oil stays up the the high pressure system when you change your oil.
I have found that you should fill the crankcase so that it shows midway between min and max on the dipstick. Your fuel injectors use oil pressure to operate. If you get foam (air) in the oil stream, you will get inconsistent injector performance. Subsequently, the rough start.
I had a long conversation with a Ford engineer on this subject at the Ford Powerstroke Deno.
I have found that you should fill the crankcase so that it shows midway between min and max on the dipstick. Your fuel injectors use oil pressure to operate. If you get foam (air) in the oil stream, you will get inconsistent injector performance. Subsequently, the rough start.
I had a long conversation with a Ford engineer on this subject at the Ford Powerstroke Deno.
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From: Central Florida
When I change my oil, I put in 15 quarts, as I always did with my 7.3 Powerstroke, and it was at the very top of full. I drained about 1.5 quarts of oil so now the level is about midway and the rough idle is gone!
For me, it was the oil level. 13 quarts for me next change.
For me, it was the oil level. 13 quarts for me next change.
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For the Chevron Delo, I paid 16.83 per gallon through the distributor but it's sold by the case(6gal). Comes to about 4.20 a quart. I would assume the Delvac and Rotella syns. would be about the same. As far as quantity, the two diesel mechanics at my commercial dealership were in absolute agreement that 15 is what it takes. Now others say no, 13-14. I stopped at a bit over 14 and checked and rechecked. It's right at the top of the x's so I'm going to leave it. As I said earlier, the thing runs perfect now (I'm knocking on wood) and I like the peace of ming knowing it's getting adequate lubrication at start up.
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From: Southern California
Fm psdwanabe
Oil aeration causing poor idle quality
Theres been talk that 15 qts of oil is too much for the 6.0. Causes oil level to read at top of dipstick. This "overfill" condition will let the crank beat the oil into a froth, either by the crank making actual contact with the oil or , if not touching the oil then by a fan effect of the crank counterweights. This frothy oil, some hypothesized would play havoc with our oil sensitive 6.0s. Well, I started reading the manual and in one of the symptom charts under poor idle quality, one of the first things it tells you to check is oil aeration. This is how you do it.
15. Oil Aeration Test
Purpose:
The purpose of this test is to determine if the engine lube oil is aerated and causing poor idle quality.
Oil Aeration Test
Run engine at 3000 RPM for 1 minute.
Take oil sample from the oil pressure switch port at idle.
Inspect the sample for presence of air bubbles.
Oil aeration causing poor idle quality
Theres been talk that 15 qts of oil is too much for the 6.0. Causes oil level to read at top of dipstick. This "overfill" condition will let the crank beat the oil into a froth, either by the crank making actual contact with the oil or , if not touching the oil then by a fan effect of the crank counterweights. This frothy oil, some hypothesized would play havoc with our oil sensitive 6.0s. Well, I started reading the manual and in one of the symptom charts under poor idle quality, one of the first things it tells you to check is oil aeration. This is how you do it.
15. Oil Aeration Test
Purpose:
The purpose of this test is to determine if the engine lube oil is aerated and causing poor idle quality.
Oil Aeration Test
Run engine at 3000 RPM for 1 minute.
Take oil sample from the oil pressure switch port at idle.
Inspect the sample for presence of air bubbles.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Northeastern Pennsylvania
Re: Rough idle at start up....
Originally posted by BassCatSC
First post for me. Here goes. I have a 03' PS diesel 6.0L with 5,100 miles on it. After first oil change/service it has started to have a rough idle at cold start-up. After it has warmed out it smoothes out and runs fine until it sets again for several hours. It is getting worse and worse and worse to the point now where I wonderif it will stay running after starting. Any ideas?
First post for me. Here goes. I have a 03' PS diesel 6.0L with 5,100 miles on it. After first oil change/service it has started to have a rough idle at cold start-up. After it has warmed out it smoothes out and runs fine until it sets again for several hours. It is getting worse and worse and worse to the point now where I wonderif it will stay running after starting. Any ideas?
Since it is February, I assume that where you live it is rather cold? My engine does the same thing. Similar to a bad plug in a gasser, but off idle it smoothes right out. I am running Delvac 1(In my opinion, rotella for 16 bucks and delvac for 20, I go with the delvac.) Anyway, when the weather is warmer(20 or above) the old girl runs as smooth as can be.
I also agree with the statement that the oil from the factory is 10W/30. I am going to try to find a Cat dealer, as they are supposed to have the Delvac 1 formulation in a 10W30 weight. Would not be the least bit worried about running that. If not, I might just have to try the Amzoil 5W/30, even though I swore I would not use them again, due to the API rating issue.
One other note. After changing, I pulled an oil sample. It came back with a weight of 43. I really believe that the oil weight, along with the overfill issue, is the biggest problem with the injectors.
Don't forget that the oil is not only in the injector for actuation, but also as a lubricant. IF it is foamed, doesn't do either well.
Lariat
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From: 3rd Rock
Overfill is a problem.
Do some research on how the 6.0 operates with oil pressure. It will explain why the motor is "picky"
All engines are picky about something, the closer they are built and tuned to maximize performance...the picky (er) they become..
ug what a word picky(er)
Do some research on how the 6.0 operates with oil pressure. It will explain why the motor is "picky"
All engines are picky about something, the closer they are built and tuned to maximize performance...the picky (er) they become..
ug what a word picky(er)
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