So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.


When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.


Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.


I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.


The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code.... Anyone have any ideas?

 

Could be a lot of things so Back to basics. One cylinder shouldn't kill it, it may run raggedy but it should run. I suspect more than one issue. One being running bad and the other being the no-start.

Battery charge and condition, cranking rpm
Hydrolocked (fuel dumped in cylinder)
Fuel supply (pump working, pressure)
FICM sync
FICM main output volts
Sync (cam/crank) if no FICM sync.
ICP/IPR correlation

Don't give the "new" injector a pass. Many aftermarket companies (even good ones) have a not so great rep on 6.0 rebuilds. Even Ford puts out a clunker every once in awhile.

Cylinder #3 ain't too bad to get at, you can pull glow plug pretty easy and spin it over to check for hydrolock and apply shop air and listen to intake/exhaust to quick check valves.

A lot of cranking with no start can trip a cam/crank sync code and CEL.

Buzz test injectors paying close attention to #3, if it's quiet check harness and connector for damage. (Even if it fails I don't think this is your no-start).

Of course if it starts cold and not warm the HPO system is prime suspect.

 

I'll probably check for hydrolock and codes tomorrow. I checked battery voltage and especially since these are new batteries and I was jump starting off my 7.3 I had good voltage. Starting the truck was never an issue until now.

But as far as the rough running goes wouldn't just bad injector o rings cause bad compression or will a failed injector contribute to compression as well?

I'll have to look into putting shop air into cylinders and buzz testing.

 

Yes, leaking copper seal at the tip can allow compression into the fuel and poor running. Leaking Oring allow fuel into the oil and oil level can get over full "making oil". Buzz test happens when key is first turned on, all injectors buzz for a second. Sometimes one at a time depending on FICM software version. Can be done by some diagnostic testers also.

 

Alright I'll also do a buzz test after work today. Oil level has remained the same. I'm thinking I'll pull the injector as well. If I don't see any physical damage would it be worth switching injector 3 with injector 1 to see if the problem follows?

This is all great information thank you very much!

 

You can swap injectors but I would throw new crush washers on them if the problem follows the injector, that way you don't have to jerk another one out.
In fact it might be a good idea to just re-ring the injectors, in the event the problem is something else.
Alliant kits are dirt cheap and cheap insurance you don't mess up an o-ring or install one that might need to be done once it's pulled.


Check the nipple cups for loose fitting as well when you take the oil rail off.

 

So I can confirm that the starter is fried, but that doesn't explain so much why it wouldn't start back up before hand. The truck would die sometimes if it was in low idle and I pressed on the throttle quickly. This is the first time it won't start for me. I don't know if the engine is for sure hydro locked because the starter won't even turn over the engine with the glow plug out but I don't know if it's a possibility. If it really isn't hydro locked then I would say it's safe to say it's the injector? I feel that the engine would still be able to start without an injector. There are no new codes that have popped up either. Is it still possible that I lost oil pressure in the oil rail? I probably won't be able to touch the truck until payday anyways.

 

I also forgot to mention that the truck passed the buzz test.

 

Update for the past week. I got the truck to start, put in a new starter, and was told I can prime the oil rail buy turning over the engine by touching the starter wire to the positive post on the battery. The truck did run but original issue with contribution code remained.

I ordered a couple of the Alliant kits to install and removed injector 1 and 3. Injector 3 has some discoloration between the bottom o ring and injector nozzle. The crush washers seem to look fine and they're not missing/double stacked. The injector nozzle also looks gritty. Picture is included at bottom. Is the discoloration a sign that compression is getting passed the crush washer? If it is would it still be worth switching injectors or should I just get a new injector and switch injector 1 to 3? What other possibilities are causing loss of compression? Why would the nozzle get so gritty is that just soot?

Still awaiting the o ring kit to come in the mail to do anything but will probably come in tomorrow.

 

That's not normal, no. The nozzle should not have those deposits on it like that, an even dark color is normal but not that gritty look. Also looks pretty damp between the bottom o-ring and crush washer. That is a dead cavity, should not really see that. Could be crush washer and/or that white o-ring.
I'll bet that is not a Ford reman injector, but can't tell from the pic.
Could be something as simple as not properly torqued, that won't fix the injector though I'm afraid.

 

So this means I need to replace the injector?

The original owner told me that they were GB Remanufacturing injectors, I seen these injectors on Rock Auto so I'm assuming this is where he got them from since they're the cheapest ones.

If I have to get an injector would it best to just get Motorcraft?

 

OEM Motorcraft remans, it's the only injector that belongs in a 6.0 unless it's going to the drag strip or looking for big HP gains.

Some "remans" are simply cleaned up and have new o-rings installed.

Suffice it to say there are at least a hundred threads here about someone buying a new "reman" that was not Motorcraft, and it came back out in short order after it failed.

 

Well for now I'm gonna clean the nozzle off with a brass wire brush and use the new o ring kit and crush washer. I'll also swap it with injector #1 so that if the problem follows I'll know the injector needs replacing. When I get a new injector I'll definitely get a Motorcraft reman.

 

So I re-ringed the injectors and put injector 1 in cylinder 3 and injector 3 in cylinder 1. Engine still still having same issue and same code is still active for cylinder 3. The only thing I can figure at this point is it's a valve issue or the rings really are shot. Also throwing the idea around that there is a hole in the piston since the injector was replaced for that cylinder and it was leaking.... Not sure what else to do at this point but pull the engine to rebuild it.

 

Did you check the oil rail ball tubes? Any loose?