shoot at that kinda price it make me want to do the same thing!
if you just so happened to see a married 205 case (that would bolt up in place of my 203 8" spacer i think) you should let me know, since you have the walmart prices over there

btw what kind of valve body do you have?

 

I'm curious...did you do a post-mortem on your AT? From your description, I was wondering whether perhaps you baked some of your ATF when pulling the chevy out. A simple drain wouldn't then get the crudded-out ATF, and the next time you exercised it, it could have failed due to insufficent lubrication.

Just an off-the-top thought...but I'd be curious to know specifically what happened to it. C6s may not be bulletproof, but they're hardly made of glass, either...

 

Its funny, I thought the same thing...I know I roasted the trans when I yarded out that chevy but the fluid didn't smell or look burnt when I drained it. Haven't dropped the tranny yet. I'm sure my clutch packs are self welded. What killed me was heat. Heavy vehicle, gobs of horse and torque, and a 2500rpm stall rated torque converter does not a C-6 friendly environment make.

edit: it has a manual valve body in it right now, SuperSwamper.

 

the only problem is that is the close ratio zf...it was behind a diesela and the diesels are much closer together in their gear ratios... the gas is like 5.3 and the diesel is like 3.98... just an FYI

 

whats that mean??, im curious.

but isnt 4th still a 1:1 ratio?

Idiomaticman

 

those are the ratios for first gear in each trans, it would work, but not what most people would want. fourth is still 1:1, but the gas version has a taller overdrive i think.

 

cool

Idiomaticman

 

I would have thought it would have been the other way around. I'm not familiar with the ZFs.

In the C6s the narrow ratio had the 1st gear as 2.46 and the wide ratio was 2.72

The AOD narrow was 2.4 and the wide was 2.84

NP435 narrow was 4.78 and wide was 6.69.

These are pretty much stock ratios. Why are the ZFs different?

 

I think it has to do with the RPM band of the diesels... with closer gearing, the diesels don't have to be revved as high. redline for a 7.3 is what 3300? redline on my 460 was 5500.with the close ratio Zf, the diesels can be shifted at lower rpms to preserve the engines bottom end... that's my understanding..

 

That makes since. I don't know much about diesels or the ZF. These propane injectors for diesels have me intrigued of late though.

 

ah yes, me too, those are quite the cool thing now. makes a ton of sense though, you can NOS diesels too. the propane helps the diesel combust more thurouly (sp?) i hear, good for power and fuel miliage.

Idiomaticman

 

Best cooler for an auto is a A/C condenser. You can get them free at most junkyards, especially if they are ripped or broken. Then flush them out real good and mount them up with a fan.

High stall converters are hard on the heat, but the big thing about c-6's is the band and the first/reverse bushing and sprag. A good place to start with a C-6 is the Ford Motorsport catalog. Roller bearings to replace the thrust washers and turning up the pump pressure to hold the clutches. If you do wheel-stands you need to relocate the pickup or baffle the pan to keep oil around the pickup tube, or run a moroso type 3 qt accumulator to keep pressure to the clutches/band etc. A tranny temp guage is invaluable when you play in the mud. When it gets near the red-zone you take a time-out for awhile till it comes back down. You can also add clutches and replace the spring-plate pressure plate in the clutch drums with heavier duty stuff. All those things that you read about in the magazines/books can be done at a good machine shop, then have somebody who does auto's for a living do the assembly.

Know exactly what you mean about hating autos. The best way I know to make a killer engine into a dog is bolt it up to an auto. And you aren't the only one that gets ticked at stuff and breaks it. I think I spend more time fixing things that I tear up when I'm mad than I ever broke while having fun.

 

Okay, the deeds done. I've got the parts I need trickling in for my 4-speed conversion. Plan is to have it done by the big mud bog at the end of the month. Couldn't be busier, which is why I haven't been around. This deal still cost me $$$ though. Some of the stuff I just got from L&L. Once I factored in the price of a new flywheel drilled out for a 12" clutch, serious pressure plate/cltuch etc. their kit was only a hair more. Will be selling all my auto stuff so I'll go through this thread and e-mail those who were interested. Add a 2500rpm stall rating torque converter and brand new Autometer trans temp gauge to the list. Just e-mail me if interested...they don't want us talking parts sales in here.