Neutral safety switch?
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From: Eau Claire
Neutral safety switch?
here is the deal.... My truck only starts when I bypass the solenoid. When I turn the key, all the electrical things turn on, and the lights do not dim when I turn the key. This problem started as only happening once in a while. I could push a bit on the clutch and it would fire up, now I get nothing. I have replaced the solenoid twice, the starter is fairly new, and I have replaced the ignition switch. I read quite a few posts about similar problems, but I didnt see any of them saying anything anything about being able to start the vehicle by by-passing the solenoid.... but the general consensus on all of these were to replace the neutral safety switch.
I guess my question is that if it is the neutral safety switch, would I still be able to start the truck by by-passing the solenoid?
and if anyone has replaced one of these, how would you rate the difficulty of it?
1 being easy 10 being hard (a.k.a take it to the shop) Oh yeah.. my truck is a 90 F150 with a 300 straight 6. Thanks in advance for your help!
I guess my question is that if it is the neutral safety switch, would I still be able to start the truck by by-passing the solenoid?
and if anyone has replaced one of these, how would you rate the difficulty of it?
1 being easy 10 being hard (a.k.a take it to the shop) Oh yeah.. my truck is a 90 F150 with a 300 straight 6. Thanks in advance for your help!
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From: Bel Air USA
The neutral safety switch does not kill the ignition circuit nor does the clutch switch. It only keeps the starter from working so jumping across the starter solenoid would start the truck if the key were in the run position. If you were able to make the truck start before by depressing the clutch pedal a bit like you said I would believe it is your clutch switch. The clutch switch is not the neutral switch. I don't believe manual transmission trucks have a neutral switch. Automatics have a neutral switch.
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From: Eau Claire
ok.. my fault.. I got in the habit of saying Neutral safety switch because in all of my searches (online and calls) to find a clutch interlock switch, I had no luck... I did find a neutral safety switch on a auto parts website that had one for automatics and one for manuals.. I was told that these both perform the same function? if not then where the %$#@ do I find a clutch interlock switch?????? thanks
thanks
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From: Virginia
"I did find a neutral safety switch on a auto parts website that had one for automatics and one for manuals.. I was told that these both perform the same function? "
It's just a play on words. Do they perform the same function? In the end, I would say yes, since it will enable you to safely start the truck without running over somebody or something accidently(whether it's an automatic or a stick).
Technically speaking, they are very different from one another, but you are on the right track, keep at it, and investigate the clutch pedal area.
It's just a play on words. Do they perform the same function? In the end, I would say yes, since it will enable you to safely start the truck without running over somebody or something accidently(whether it's an automatic or a stick).
Technically speaking, they are very different from one another, but you are on the right track, keep at it, and investigate the clutch pedal area.
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From: Eau Claire
[i]
Technically speaking, they are very different from one another, but you are on the right track, keep at it, and investigate the clutch pedal area. [/B]
Technically speaking, they are very different from one another, but you are on the right track, keep at it, and investigate the clutch pedal area. [/B]
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From: Virginia
Crawl under the dash and look at the clutch pedal arm. If the switch looks the same, install it and see what happens.
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From: alaska
sometimes if you have a test light you can see if you have power not only to components but thru them when power is applied or when they are actuated , it saves a lot of unneeded parts changing and expence . usually the various switches have plugs that can be disconnected and with a short wire jumped across the plug contacts , to eliminate the switch and veryfy that it is good or bad . a repair manual for your year of truck with a component locator would probably be an excellent purchase. different parts of the country, and even people from different generations may have different names for the same part , none of them are wrong , just different a real poor mans fix for this problem is to run two wires from the starter solonoid to a push button switch mounted on your dash , basicly eliminating all the in between parts you have to remember to make sure you are not in gear prior to starting , because your nuetral safety parts are no longer working , but it will get you started with out having to pop the hood every time, i personally think it is in fact , your clutch switch which is mounted on the upper part of your clutch pedal arm. i am sometimes guilty of giving to technical of answers and of forgetting what its like to be young, if any of this doesnt make sence ,please let me know,good luck,bob
Last edited by bob arrington; Jan 25, 2004 at 06:17 AM.
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From: Comox Valley, Canada
I hope you have it fixed but if not........the switch should be on the clutch pedal arm....... I believe it is called the clutch interlock switch but everyone has their own name for stuff ........anyway the wires are red with a blue stripe and there will be two of them on the switch...........remove the connector on the switch and jump the two red/blue wires together with a piece of wire or I use a fuse .... it fits perfect........now try and start the truck, make sure it is in neutral or the clutch is in........if it starts the switch may be just out of adjustment or the switch may be broken.....if it doesnt start you will have to get a voltmeter and start checking for power.
I hope it is just the switch as it is a fairly easy fix.
........anyway the wires are red with a blue stripe and there will be two of them on the switch...........remove the connector on the switch and jump the two red/blue wires together with a piece of wire or I use a fuse .... it fits perfect........now try and start the truck, make sure it is in neutral or the clutch is in........if it starts the switch may be just out of adjustment or the switch may be broken.....if it doesnt start you will have to get a voltmeter and start checking for power.I hope it is just the switch as it is a fairly easy fix.
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From: Eau Claire
a new problem has transpired... I have not yet gotten around to replacing the clutch interlock switch (or even looking at it for that matter)... Now when I start the truck by bypassing the selanoid, The truck wont shut off. I can take the key out and it keeps running. Like I said before, we recently replaced the ignition switch.. could this be the problem (maybe i got a bad switch?)? The electrical wont shut off, even after I force the truck to shut off by putting it in gear and letting go of the clutch. Is it possible that my whole problem is the ignition itself? I am a beginer at this fixing truck stuff and I am the only one in my family who owns a ford... so my brothers and my dad have no clue and their only words of advice is "get rid of it and buy a dodge.." Can somebody please help me make my family shut up!???? :-) thanks again in advance :-)
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From: alaska
sounds like a bad ignition switch, whos doing your parts replacing ? sometimes well meaning friends cause more problems ,a visit to a good shop while not inexpensive is money well spent in saved time and frustration ,usually all thats wrong is a wire installed back on the wrong post , which is what your problem sounds like. a good way to make friends with a mechanic is to walk in carrying a box of donuts or a plate of cookies, at least it does with me , i have ladies that are low on funds , that walk in carrying a pineapple upsid down cake and get amazeing amounts of work done just because im a sucker for a good cake ,and being single , i dont see one that often, good luck, bob
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From: Virginia
I see two possibilities to the solution to your problem. And this also may fix your starting problem too.
1. When you installed the switch, it was not centered properly, or not tightened properly and has moved.
The switch mount is slotted. When they give you the new switch, it has a pin installed that centers it in the "off" position. You are supposed to hook the rod into the switch and tighten the mounting screws, and then pull the centering pin out. This should align the switch.
2. The one other possiblity is the gear mechanism that moves the rod in the column has some stripped teeth. This will throw the actuating rod out of wack, not moving the ignition switch correctly. Though I have never done it myself, there are several posts in here about it, and it seems to happen quite often.
1. When you installed the switch, it was not centered properly, or not tightened properly and has moved.
The switch mount is slotted. When they give you the new switch, it has a pin installed that centers it in the "off" position. You are supposed to hook the rod into the switch and tighten the mounting screws, and then pull the centering pin out. This should align the switch.
2. The one other possiblity is the gear mechanism that moves the rod in the column has some stripped teeth. This will throw the actuating rod out of wack, not moving the ignition switch correctly. Though I have never done it myself, there are several posts in here about it, and it seems to happen quite often.
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