1992 Starter Relay
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Freshman User
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1992 Starter Relay
I have an issue with not being able to start the vehicle. I just purchased the 92 truck a month ago. It was not starting, so I replaced the fender mounted relay. It worked for a day, but then I figured out the problem was the clutch safety switch (had to push the clutch way down to the floor). I bypassed that by jumpering the red/blue wires and its been starting fine. Until yesterday....... When I turn the key, I get a click. With the truck in neutral, I jump the 2 large terminals on the relay (did this before and the starter would crank). It does nothing now, not even a click. I put the old relay back and the same thing. Could it be the relay?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I have an issue with not being able to start the vehicle. I just purchased the 92 truck a month ago. It was not starting, so I replaced the fender mounted relay. It worked for a day, but then I figured out the problem was the clutch safety switch (had to push the clutch way down to the floor). I bypassed that by jumpering the red/blue wires and its been starting fine. Until yesterday....... When I turn the key, I get a click. With the truck in neutral, I jump the 2 large terminals on the relay (did this before and the starter would crank). It does nothing now, not even a click. I put the old relay back and the same thing. Could it be the relay?
It could be the relay.
Many autoparts stores today sell parts made in CHINA. The quality of these parts is terrible.
So your "new" relay might be defective. And did they sell you the correct one...or not?
This is the correct one. > >
E9TZ11450B .. Starter Motor Relay (Motorcraft SW1951C)
MSRP: $37.22 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $22.10.
Autoparts stores can cross Motorcraft part numbers over to the brands they sell. See if it matches the one you bought.
Are the battery cables or the posts they connect to corroded? That's another thing to consider.
Remove the cables, clean up any corrosion.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26,898
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From: southern md
if your jumping the relay that takes it out of the mix-check wires on your starter-they some time will come loose-and check the ground wire to the starter real good-won't work with it loose or corroded
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Numberdummy...thanks for the reply. The solenoid is from NAPA (not sure why they call it a solenoid if it is a relay) and it is made in china. ST404 is the number on the box. The cables were corroded when I bought the truck, but I brushed them up really well.
jr...thanks for the reply. That is what my thought was. By jumping the 2 terminals, something should have happened. I just took a class in electronics and it has helped me understand a lot of the terminology (but I am still no genius). I will give the wires at the starter a look tonight.
jr...thanks for the reply. That is what my thought was. By jumping the 2 terminals, something should have happened. I just took a class in electronics and it has helped me understand a lot of the terminology (but I am still no genius). I will give the wires at the starter a look tonight.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 790
From: Simi Valley, CA
Starter solenoid is another term for the starter relay.
Ford has, what I refer to as "dueling" references, for the same part.
In the 1990/2002 parts catalog, Ford refers to it as a: Starter Motor Relay.
In the 1964/72 parts catalog, Ford refers to it as a: Starter Motor Relay-Solenoid Switch.
Ford has, what I refer to as "dueling" references, for the same part.
In the 1990/2002 parts catalog, Ford refers to it as a: Starter Motor Relay.
In the 1964/72 parts catalog, Ford refers to it as a: Starter Motor Relay-Solenoid Switch.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 26,898
Likes: 3
From: southern md
Numberdummy...thanks for the reply. The solenoid is from NAPA (not sure why they call it a solenoid if it is a relay) and it is made in china. ST404 is the number on the box. The cables were corroded when I bought the truck, but I brushed them up really well.
jr...thanks for the reply. That is what my thought was. By jumping the 2 terminals, something should have happened. I just took a class in electronics and it has helped me understand a lot of the terminology (but I am still no genius). I will give the wires at the starter a look tonight.
jr...thanks for the reply. That is what my thought was. By jumping the 2 terminals, something should have happened. I just took a class in electronics and it has helped me understand a lot of the terminology (but I am still no genius). I will give the wires at the starter a look tonight.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
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From: Easton,Ks
Your truck has both a Relay on the fender and a solenoid on the starter.
Your problem is more than likely a bad spade terminal on the starter solenoid located down on the starter.
To fix cut back about an inch of wire, strip and crimp on a new spade connector.
If this does not fix it then it is starter time.
A solenoid and a relay are to different things and the auto part stores are behind the times and did not catch it when Ford moved the solenoid from the fender to the starter. A solenoid has a moving plunger that rams contacts closed and a relay does not.
A relay moves a plate with contacts on it with a magnetic field.
Here is a diagram of your system.
/
Your problem is more than likely a bad spade terminal on the starter solenoid located down on the starter.
To fix cut back about an inch of wire, strip and crimp on a new spade connector.
If this does not fix it then it is starter time.
A solenoid and a relay are to different things and the auto part stores are behind the times and did not catch it when Ford moved the solenoid from the fender to the starter. A solenoid has a moving plunger that rams contacts closed and a relay does not.
A relay moves a plate with contacts on it with a magnetic field.
Here is a diagram of your system.
/
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Wiggled it! just a little bit!
Thanks for your help everybody. I went below the truck tonight, cleaned off the terminal on the starter, then wire brushed the spade on the solenoid. It started right up. I have a few more issues with the truck, but I will just keep plugging away at them. It has 198,000+ miles on it, so there are bound to be some issues. For $950 + about $300-$400 in repairs, it feels good to being driving a new truck.
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