Can't remove U-Joints... pls help
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: South Bend
It figures. That bearing in mine went and pretty much destroyed it. I took it to a shop here and had it rebuilt for around $200. Having lived in CA myself, I know you can expect to pay a lot more there.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
From: NJ
hey jaja i have never done that joint but i do know what your talking about. are the needles the same size as the ones in the u joint cap? if so maybe you can use one or two of them out of one of the old caps.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Try to find one so that you have a reference when you get the new ones. Need to be the same size. Try www.broncograveyard.com
You may have to call them but maybe they will sell you what you need. Don't try to run it with one missing...I tried that and had to replace the ujoints and the yoke. $180.
You may have to call them but maybe they will sell you what you need. Don't try to run it with one missing...I tried that and had to replace the ujoints and the yoke. $180.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
I think that centering gizmo in the center of the front u joint assembly is part of what Ford calls a double cardan u-joint. When mine went south I paid the man to rebuild the driveshaft. Not real cheap but they did a nice job. If you R&R the shaft and take it to a driveshaft shop the job will cost less. It will be worth your time and money.
For anyone that hasn't lubed that little flush fitting down between the two front u-joints, greasing it is sure cheaper than replacing it. You need to use a needle nose attachment to get it.
For anyone that hasn't lubed that little flush fitting down between the two front u-joints, greasing it is sure cheaper than replacing it. You need to use a needle nose attachment to get it.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
JaJa, I may be misunderstanding you but if the needle bearings are the ones from the u joint cups, I'd just buy some new U-joints and install 'em rather than try to replace the needle bearings using old joints and bearing cups. U-joints are not that costly and why re-use when the old ones are out?
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock, TX
Like Norm Carter said the centering unit is easier to have someone else do. Especially if you mess it up... If that thing isn't centered correctly you get a lot of vibration and you can lose the drive shaft itself in a metal mess...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock, TX
Yes, like the others said, this is an excellent time to replace the U-joints. It's cheap insurance. By the way, reassembling without one or more needle bearings results in a broken U-joint and this can result in the driveshaft swinging freely underneath your vehicle. This usually means trashed exhaust pipes, ripped out wires and fuel lines, and if it drops from the front of the shaft, just remember the pole vault event from track and field.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Grants Pass, OR
Here is a copy and paste of a post I made last year:
Double Cardan Rebuild
For those of you wanting to do a double cardan rebuild, I have a few part #'s for you. For the centering ball it is Spicer P/N 404-OA
and the slinger is Spicer P/N 412-2.
Keith L has a page on Superford's site that shows details of the installation. Just make note of the new Spicer#'s that I have given.
One thing to note is that Keith does mention that the seal didn't fit over the centering ball. The reason is that it is a completely different set-up using that Napa P/N. The ball itself works great, but it is the seal that will give you trouble.
Have fun, pretty simple project and no more vibration.
Double Cardan Rebuild
For those of you wanting to do a double cardan rebuild, I have a few part #'s for you. For the centering ball it is Spicer P/N 404-OA
and the slinger is Spicer P/N 412-2.
Keith L has a page on Superford's site that shows details of the installation. Just make note of the new Spicer#'s that I have given.
One thing to note is that Keith does mention that the seal didn't fit over the centering ball. The reason is that it is a completely different set-up using that Napa P/N. The ball itself works great, but it is the seal that will give you trouble.
Have fun, pretty simple project and no more vibration.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Grants Pass, OR
BTW....here is what I used to do the job. Go to harbor freight. Made plenty of time to drink beer and not nurse fingers.
3-IN-1 BALL JOINT/U-JOINT/C-FRAME PRESS SERVICE KIT
Don't risk damaging essential parts on your vehicle by using the wrong tools. This kit removes and installs ball joints, universal joints and truck brake anchor pins. Even removes rusted and corroded parts with ease. Set includes C-frame press, three receiver tubes (one 2-3/4'' I.D. x 3'' O.D., one 2-1/4'' I.D. x 2-1/2'' O.D. and one 1-3/4'' I.D. x 2'' O.D.) and installation and removing adapters, threaded rod and a blow mold case.
ITEM 38335-0VGA
$39.99
3-IN-1 BALL JOINT/U-JOINT/C-FRAME PRESS SERVICE KIT
Don't risk damaging essential parts on your vehicle by using the wrong tools. This kit removes and installs ball joints, universal joints and truck brake anchor pins. Even removes rusted and corroded parts with ease. Set includes C-frame press, three receiver tubes (one 2-3/4'' I.D. x 3'' O.D., one 2-1/4'' I.D. x 2-1/2'' O.D. and one 1-3/4'' I.D. x 2'' O.D.) and installation and removing adapters, threaded rod and a blow mold case.
ITEM 38335-0VGA
$39.99
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Torrance, CA
Well here's the update... went to the local drivetrain shop and the guy saw the mess i was in and gave me a needle bearing...
I put everything back together and I guess I am in business... I took it for a drive around the block, and so far so good... I'm gonna take a peek under tomorrow to see if the bolts are loose or if the clamps came off.
thanks everyone for their help...
I put everything back together and I guess I am in business... I took it for a drive around the block, and so far so good... I'm gonna take a peek under tomorrow to see if the bolts are loose or if the clamps came off.
thanks everyone for their help...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Torrance, CA
here the other thing... i was driving around town before i went to the drivetrain place - and went to Ford, the parts guy was real nice, but I don't think he new what I was asking through and said I need to buy the entire part - but the thing was that he was showing me something that didn't look anything like my part... anyway i gave up and went to the drivetrain place and i got everything in place... 
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 566
Likes: 5
From: SC
Glad to hear you got it together. But I must add my advice was given thinking you were dealing with a "regular" u-joint, NOT a double Cardan joint. You don't really want to bash the heck of those, one wild swing can cost rather more than you wanted to spend (besides the fingers). Thankfully other folks jumped in to help too. Good going guys!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Torrance, CA
one more thing... i don't know what the policy of this forum is with advertisements, but i wanna put the name of the place where i got that needle bearing..
Drive Line Service of Carson-Gardena
16539 South Broadway, Carson, CA 90745
(310) 515-2860
(btw - when you look this up on mapquest it gives you a funky location - so be careful)
I owe him that much
Real nice guy.
Drive Line Service of Carson-Gardena
16539 South Broadway, Carson, CA 90745
(310) 515-2860
(btw - when you look this up on mapquest it gives you a funky location - so be careful)
I owe him that much
Real nice guy.
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