I removed the propellor/drive shaft in the rear from the transfer case to the rear diff, and started to remove the clamps on the top of the u-joints. But that part was easy..

I tried to follow the forums by pounding with a hammer -using a socket to "push" it out(which i hit my finger with - ouch, just came back from the hospital) even tried spraying a bit of WD-40 and let it sit to soak it up. But no luck...

I tried my 8" c clamp and no can do....

Can anyone give me some advise? Or should I just give up bring the driveshaft to a mechanic?

Pleeze help.

(is there a special tool to help me with this?)

 

My past encounters have led me to think that sometimes...I think the tech term is...Just a pain in the ***! LOL! I have fought with some myself just be careful not to damage the yoke and keep working. I have no GOOD tricks just persistence.

 

try putting it in a vice and using something to knock the u-joints out.

 

I use the high-tech way of laying the driveshaft in vice, no need to actually tighten it-just lay it in there to support it and hold it with one hand. The bash the cast iron of the yoke until one u-joint cap pops out. Then flip the driveshaft around, put the yoke back in place and bash the other one out. This method has worked fine for me on a wide variety of driveshafts.
You can't just bash indiscriminately though. Hit the yoke on the rough part between the cap and the yoke itself. Don't hit the machined part of the yoke as you can "ding" it and cause your transfer case seal to leak. Don't hit it around the u-joint bearing cap either. You can ding or distort the hole and make it very difficult or impossible to install your new joint.
The shaft should be clamped in a vise because you can ding or bend the tubing quite easily. If you do, the the driveshaft may behave as if it's out of balance upon re-installation. The vice just used as a nice solid support, not a clamp. In a roadside repair situation, I've found a handy concrete curb to work just as well.
And please note, NONE of this stuff applies to installing the new joints. That's a whole other procedure and no hammers should be involved.

 

Gyspsy - when you bash the yoke - i am assuming you hit the middle part of the cap of the u joint...

http://www.stu-offroad.com/otherwrit...t/ujoint-2.htm

This is what I am using for reference...

But I guess its like lugnuts that are on real tight... all you can do is hit it HARD with a big hammer....

(my finger wasn't broken or fractured - for those who are wondering... but I am a little afraid of the hammer

 

well what i mean with the lugnuts is that they are hard - sometimes... and all you have to do is suck it up and yank it.

 

You might try a little heat, sometimes that works.

 

UMM I dont mean to sound insulting...but I dont see any mention of removing the clips that hold the ujoints in the yoke. You know, the ones that click into the groves just towards the end of the yoke where the cap of the ujoints are. Just a thought. Mine have bever been that tough to remove, even the originals when they finally went out.

 

well norm was right - i heated up the u joints in hot water and i got them out... the only problem is that there is a ball bearing in one of the pieces of the driveshaft - and all the needle bearings came out...

suggestions? can i put them back in and am i going to be ok?

 

billybob - no worries - my question was a bonehead one anyway - but i did get the clips out before I tried.

but good news is that the u joints are out - and the bad news is the center needle bearings (what the real name for this?) are all over my parking space

help....

 

That is a centering pin...I have f**ked mine up quite a few times myself. When you put it back together, make sure you have all the needle bearings an add a little grease to help hold em in place when you put it all back together.

 

Oops forgot to add...yes you can get more needle bearings. I did the same thing and went to a local drive shop for new ones.

 

i'm calling all over and i can't get the needle bearings... i live in los angeles.. any ideas? do you think i can run it with one missing?

 

NO! Don't do that. It will trash the joint. I'd try a driveline shop.

 

they said that they only sold the entire thing.... wanted like 80$