96 ford Taurus 3.0L, Yes I know this is a truck forum but I'm getting no good answers in the taurus forum. Computer code says its bad. How hard is it to replace? I haven't looked at the haynes or chilton manual yet, will get from Library monday. Guy at the garage said to replace both the sensor and synchronizer. Said you need to take measurements or after you get it together it will not start. I found the sensor, not the easiest thing to get to. Anyone done this have any advice? Should I do it myself or better to let Ford do it? The garage did say to only use ford parts (not a ford garage) they have had problems with the napa brand on this.

 

Your 3.0L is a Vulcan, and we like Vulcans around here.

Replacing the CMP sensor is a breeze. I've never replaced the synchronizer, but I understand it can be tricky so you should be careful. Supposedly it requires special tools to align up the new assembly, but there are a few shortcuts to that, according to some of things I've read. Here are some very informative threads on the subject:

Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer

Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer II

Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer III

Good luck, hope this helps.

 

In progress of replacing CMP sensor, found the alignment tool from OTC tools by doing Google search using Ford part number. The OTC tool PN for my 1997 Taurus 3.0L Vulcan is 6472. You will not find this number on the OTC (SPX) webpage as a separate item (only in a "kit"). After I ordered the part from a wedsite (and paid about $20 shipping & handling), I found that my local Checker Auto Parts store could order the part, they just could not identify the item without the OTC PN. Long sad tale, but the tool is availavble aftermarket. The syncronizer assembly does not seem to be available except from Ford, the Motorcraft PN is "DA 2094", and is will cost about $140 from dealer. Now just trying to find crankshaft TDC pointer to set #1 TDC to use alignment tool. Engine does not seem to have a pointer, unless you can use the crankshaft position sensor to line up with the degree marks on the balancer. Any thoughts?

 

I replaced the camshaft position sensor in my 95 Ranger last week. It was very simple-took about 15 minutes. I bought the tool ($35) and you will need it to get everything lined up. Before you pull the assembly, take the sensor off and see if that's the problem. If so, you don't need to remove the synchronizer. If the shaft is ok I sure wouldn't mess with replacing it. It either works or it doesn't.

 

Sir I do appreciate your reply, however you can rest assured that I would not have paid $140 to a Ford dealer for a new syncronizer if the old one was not damaged. It appears that the magnet in the sensor dropped into the syncronizer and jammed against the spinning rotor, the metal rim of the rotor (trigger) was torn off and mashed, along with the magnet into a mangled mess. From my research on this subject, it seems that this is a fairly common occurance with the vulcan.

As you said, the actual replacement of the sensor is a snap (once you uncover its location under the wiring harness support tray on the Taurus anyway). The installation of the new syncronizer is also easy with the alignment tool, however I spent the better part of the day trying to figure out how to identify compression TDC for #1 cylinder since Ford has stopped installing a pointer to read the timing marks on the crankshaft balancer.

I finally removed the crankshaft position sensor (which I understand replaces the crankshaft pointer, so I figured it was in the same location on the block) and drew an index mark on the centerline of the sensor, then reinstalled the cranksensor and used that to find TDC. I ran the engine and checked my mark with a timing light and found that it seemed to be registering the correct timing signal. To identify TDC on the compression stroke, I observed the old syncronizer (still in place in the engine) and marked the rotor disk using a sharpie pen to indicate the side where the "trigger" used to be. I could tell where the trigger was torn off the rotor due to the rough edge that was left on the rotor disk. I then compared the side of the rotor to the side where the alignment tool would put the trigger on the new syncronizer. I rotated the engine until the TDC mark was showing 0° and the syncronizer trigger was in the correct half of the rotor circle. Then slipping the new parts together was a breeze. Darn thing started right up and runs like a champ, go figure.

 

Glad to hear you fixed it.

 

What taurus forum are you in? Try the TCCA. I happen to like it.

 

That's the forum I started in and I must say I wasn't impressed. I got more info from this forum in less time. There is some good info on the site but for this problem this site helped me more.

For the record I took it apart last night hoping to only have to replace the sensor but the synchronizer vane was bent and the new sensor would not go on. Did not feel comfortable trying to replace the synchronizer so I took it to the shop.

Thanks to all for the advice.

 

Glad you got it fixed. Same thing happened to my shaft-the metal half round came off and wiped out everything. FYI-finding top dead center is pretty easy if you have 2 people or a remote starter switch. Pull #1 plug, bump the starter while holding your finger over the hole and as soon as you feel compression, use a piece of wire in the cylinder to watch the piston until the wire just starts to go back down. Shouldn't use a screwdriver or anything that can damage the engine. If you pull all the plugs, its pretty easy to turn the engine by hand.