2001 taurus help
2001 taurus help
Hi All!
I know we're a trucks forum, but I see we have a section for the 3.0L Duratec, and i've found you guys so helpful, so i'm hoping you might help me with this one, too.
The vehicle:
2001 Ford Taurus DOHC 3.0L 170K miles.
Stock, no modifications.
The problem:
The engine will turn over, but it will not start!
The history:
This is my daily driver, and it's been running well until today.
The worst problem i've had is an occasional rough idle.
Yesterday I went on a 200 mile round trip roadtrip, nothing unusual for this vehicle, and I didn't have any trouble.
I replaced leaking intake gaskets and a bad coil pack in August 2014, intake gaskets and a bad alternator in August 2015.
I've already:
Checked for codes with my Innova 3100a; I get no codes. CEL illuminates as expected in key on position.
Checked ALL of the fuses, in the passenger compartment, and under the hood, with a test meter for continuity, and visually, and they all check out as good.
I've checked for fuel by listening for the fuel pump hum, which I do hear each time, and by pressing the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line, which sprays fuel out nicely, all three times I checked it.
I checked for spark with a spark tester, and I have no spark at the plug end, and my plug wires check out A-ok (did an ohm test on them, and they check out in spec).
I bench tested the coil pack. I get 10.5K ohms between each tower pair (all three) and I get .5 ohms between pin 4 (power in) and each of the three other pins.
I checked for power in the connector going into the coil pack, and I get power at all times on the red wire, which is positive in, but no power at all to the other three wires, including during start. I traced the wires for that connector back and they go into the main harness and disappear.
Today (24MAY) I checked the Crankshaft position sensor, and found 0 volts coming out of it at start. I pulled it out (man that's a HUGE pain!) and checked the resistance; it was 0 Ohms. I replaced it with a new Duralast, which reads 350 Ohms, and now I have 1.1 volts +/- .3 volts at start, oscillating. I have power at the #4 pin on the coil pack connector, but no power on the other three pins at start.
Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions? Next steps?
I know we're a trucks forum, but I see we have a section for the 3.0L Duratec, and i've found you guys so helpful, so i'm hoping you might help me with this one, too.
The vehicle:
2001 Ford Taurus DOHC 3.0L 170K miles.
Stock, no modifications.
The problem:
The engine will turn over, but it will not start!
The history:
This is my daily driver, and it's been running well until today.
The worst problem i've had is an occasional rough idle.
Yesterday I went on a 200 mile round trip roadtrip, nothing unusual for this vehicle, and I didn't have any trouble.
I replaced leaking intake gaskets and a bad coil pack in August 2014, intake gaskets and a bad alternator in August 2015.
I've already:
Checked for codes with my Innova 3100a; I get no codes. CEL illuminates as expected in key on position.
Checked ALL of the fuses, in the passenger compartment, and under the hood, with a test meter for continuity, and visually, and they all check out as good.
I've checked for fuel by listening for the fuel pump hum, which I do hear each time, and by pressing the fuel pressure relief valve on the fuel line, which sprays fuel out nicely, all three times I checked it.
I checked for spark with a spark tester, and I have no spark at the plug end, and my plug wires check out A-ok (did an ohm test on them, and they check out in spec).
I bench tested the coil pack. I get 10.5K ohms between each tower pair (all three) and I get .5 ohms between pin 4 (power in) and each of the three other pins.
I checked for power in the connector going into the coil pack, and I get power at all times on the red wire, which is positive in, but no power at all to the other three wires, including during start. I traced the wires for that connector back and they go into the main harness and disappear.
Today (24MAY) I checked the Crankshaft position sensor, and found 0 volts coming out of it at start. I pulled it out (man that's a HUGE pain!) and checked the resistance; it was 0 Ohms. I replaced it with a new Duralast, which reads 350 Ohms, and now I have 1.1 volts +/- .3 volts at start, oscillating. I have power at the #4 pin on the coil pack connector, but no power on the other three pins at start.
Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions? Next steps?
I found a link to a video talking about how the coolant temp sensor caused a no-start condition, so I checked mine, and it ohmed out at 0. I replaced it, and it still doesn't start, but the new sensor ohms out around 30 ohms.
I think i've isolated it to the PCM, or a wiring issue somewhere.
Does anyone know how/where to go about testing a PCM?
I think i've isolated it to the PCM, or a wiring issue somewhere.
Does anyone know how/where to go about testing a PCM?
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