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i am having problems with my truck's acceleration....it starts to bog out if i give it too much gas....i have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump's, air filter, MAP senser, plugs and wires....i then ran the code reader on it and everything checked out....checked the timming and it was advanced to ~20....i retarded it to ~12....ran codes again and got a code 44 (thermactor system fault)....is this something i can replace and/or adjust?
Did you inspect or test the vacuum lines going to the thermactor system? I noticed that mine (92, 165,00 mi) were about toast quite by accident. I had to move the termactor mess to get to something else, and 4 of the vacuum lines snapped....they had gotten extremely brittle.
Originally posted by Bronco86 no i haven't checked this out yet, i got the code late last night....i will check this out tonight....could my prob be somethig else?
It could very well be something else...I just don't have the expertise to say exactly what..someone will though! Checking those lines is a fairly quick thing, and I just saw the word "thermactor", and immediately the memory of those vacuum lines snapping replayed in my mind!
Did you remove the SPOUT connector when you checked the timing? 20 degrees without the SPOUT would make the truck spark knock like crazy. Have you tried running some injector cleaner in a tank of gas?
yes i put cleaner in it day defore test, yes i disconnected the spout....~20 it ran great....it runs ok at ~12....i am thinking it was advanced to fix (or hide) the prob it was having before sold to me
That's quite a ways advanced. Have you checked to see how much play is in the timing chain? Turn the crank with a wrench (15/16") until you get to the TDC mark on the balancer. Then, with the distributor cap off, turn the crank in the opposite direction, and stop when you see the rotor move. Note the distance on the balancer in degrees. If it's more than 5 degrees, it's time to replace the chain/gears. I don't think this is your problem though. Check the wiring for all the various sensors to make sure there are no faults there. Although, something should have come up in the diagnostic test if there were wiring faults...
i ran another couple tests at lunch and the first one came back as coolent temp gauge out on spec (not warmend) warmed it up more and two tests came back all good...........no probs reported...GRRRRRRRRR..........i think i am going to change o2 senser next just for the hell of it......
Check the tps sensor. Do a sweep test with a volt meter. The timing is not so critical as long as it in not too retarted. I usally set the timing by ear. As soon as it starts pinging go a 5 degrees back. The termac wont give you the bog down either.
Also does the truck bog down for a second and come back up. Or does it just stayed boged down. If it stays boged down check the cat. Ford cats go into melt down fast if it misses and they clog if your truck is starting to burn oil.
I dont understand what you are trying to tell me. Tell me what happens when you floor it from a stop. When you are running part throttle and then floor it.
Does it seem to back fire when you snap the throttle as you power brake it.
Could you have a broken motor mount and under acceleration the motor torques, pulls wiring or ground cable, maybe kinks vacumn line to map? Just a thought. Could be a bad tps also, like jokey said. good luck
if i am at a dead stop and floor it, the truck surges it's like rapidly hiting the gas and letting off then hitting the gas and letting off till i realy let off and all is normal till i try again. same thing if i am on freeway and try to pass grama in front of me...mounts are good map is new and kink free...tps seems to be working good i checked it once and it checked out i may replace just to be sure....i am lost as to what else it could be......i may need to take to a shop
You got a problem with the spark. To me it seems like when the computer advances the timing the spark jumps in side the distrbutor. If you didnt change the rotor look to see if you have black spot in the center. If you do the spark is jumping there.
I seen this happen a couple of times. Most people dont change the cap a rotor on fords because they dont need to be changed for the first tune up. But later on they have too.
Never have to worry about the Map on a ford. They never go bad.
If it was it would never even start. Most times on ford the tps is bad and the egr feedback sensor is bad. If tps is bad you get weird idle and hesistation. Once you are wide open throttle tps does not matter that much. The egr usally never gives you problems just check engine light and may be pinging.
You may want to check the wireing harness. Check around the radiator and buy the loom where it goes in the fire wall. There are a bunch of fuse links. Here in wisconsin You will see this problem quie often. Dont be nice and easy on the harness. Give it a good tug. Also buy the battery check the small wire that goes to the postive. This wire feed the computer.