Power door lock problem
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Power door lock problem
As of yesterday I have been seeing a problem with my 2000 Ranger 3.0 L XLT. when I hit either the driver door lock switch or the passengers, or the remote . this Drivers lock goes up but no the passengers, though I hear both actuators getting juice and the passengers side is trying.
After doing the lock/unlock bit a couple of times , my drivers side won't work either and I have to wait about 1 min. before I can open the drivers side again.
My question: is there some sort of circuit breaker or relay somewhere for the door locks? the only thing I have seen was a 15 amp fuse for it ?
After doing the lock/unlock bit a couple of times , my drivers side won't work either and I have to wait about 1 min. before I can open the drivers side again.
My question: is there some sort of circuit breaker or relay somewhere for the door locks? the only thing I have seen was a 15 amp fuse for it ?
Posting Guru
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From: Coastal North Carolina
Mine des the same thing except on the driver's side. It moves a little like its trying, just not enough to unlock it. And it has something in there to save the batt. Everytime you hit it after the first time it gets weaker until it stops all together. And like you said you have to wait about a minute before you can try again. i just got used to mine not working all the time and use the key, but if anyone knows how to fix it, I would really appreciate it.
Mountain Pass
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From: VA BEACH
the haynes manual says: Check the switch for continuity in the closed position. Also check the switches for sticking. If a switch sticks closed the actuator internal circuit breaker will trip and stay tripped until voltage is removed.
it also says if no voltage is present at the actuator then is probably the switch, realy, or wiring.
it also says if no voltage is present at the actuator then is probably the switch, realy, or wiring.
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I tried it all.
I checked the continuity at the switches. I took apart the door last night to get a peek at the acuator. I could not get my chubby fingers around the wireharness to disconnect to check voltage, but the fact is, I here the acuator try to pop the lock when I initially hit the switch, so I am assuming the voltage is good.
I guess it has to be the actuator, but I read in the circuit diagram that there is a relay for the " drivers lock open / all lock open" system. I just don't know where it is , so if anyone has the FORD shop manual on this I would love to know.
I checked the continuity at the switches. I took apart the door last night to get a peek at the acuator. I could not get my chubby fingers around the wireharness to disconnect to check voltage, but the fact is, I here the acuator try to pop the lock when I initially hit the switch, so I am assuming the voltage is good.
I guess it has to be the actuator, but I read in the circuit diagram that there is a relay for the " drivers lock open / all lock open" system. I just don't know where it is , so if anyone has the FORD shop manual on this I would love to know.
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From: Coastal North Carolina
I also took the door apart. I hear it moving, and i have checked all the fuses (even the ones in the engine compartment). i squirted lubricant, and moved it up and down with the key and with the lock button. I soaked it so i dont think that is the problem. I cant get in there to get the motor loose , so i guess i'll have to live with it.
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I have the same problem with my F250. It slowly looses the juice to the circuit after several attempts and you have to wait a few minutes for it to build back up. The relays for my truck are in the center of the cab dash area, well up the firewall on the inside. There are 4 relays housed in a box. They are hidden well. From the sounds of how things are working the relays are working properly. Under normal circumstances the problem sounds like a something is heating up with every attempt to open or close the locks. As it cools down, there is more juice to try and open or close the lock, but still not enough. I just started looking tonight and ran out of juice myself. I'll post when/if I find the problem. In the mean-time if anyone else figures it out, please let me know. It sounds like a common problem.
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From: Coastal North Carolina
U think it might be some sort of safety built in so if your button on your key pad gets held down it wont run the battery dead. But who knows? Ill just use the key until i get it fixed
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Well, I fixed it.....Kind of. I took the door lock actuator on the driver's side out. I disassembled it. Inside it has several gears and a small electric motor. The motor turns the primary, half moon, gear which has a fairly heavy duty spring on it for centering purposes. The motor, probably worth 2 bucks, apparently had just worn to the point that it could not push against the spring with enough force to open or close the door. I took the spring out, reassembled the actuator (with a little hot glue), put it back in, and everything works perfectly. I know this was not the proper way to do it, but it worked and didn't cost me anything. The problem is the little motor has pretty much worn out. Replacing the actuator on the door with the first problem will solve the problem. It affects the opposite door actuator because they are connected in the same circuit, so even though both stop working at the same time, chances are, only one is worn out. Anyway, I am going to leave it working like it is until something stops and then I will replace the actuator. Hompe this helps someone.
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I actually took the door latch out with the three screws on the door jamb. As everyone says, you can't see much inside of the door. The actuator is attached to the latch mechanism. Once I got the entire mechanism out I saw how the actuator was attached to the latch. It simply slides on to two rails but has a plastic catch that needs to be lifted to unlock it from the latch. Hard to describe in words. It wasn't very difficult to remove the entire assembly. The hard part was disconnecting the three linking rods, one to the hand lock, one to the door handle, and one to the door lock, and then reconnecting them. It still wasn't too difficult. I'm sure it is different on other models. Fortunately, the F250 had a large area open in the door frame to work from.
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From: Gainesville, MO
I was working on this today my self. I think I am going to look for a used one since I don't have a dealer near me. What all years/models will interchange? Just thought I would check and see if anybody knew. The local salvage yards are not that knowledgeable here. Thanks.
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