How do I remove the headlight knob?

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Jan 19, 2004 | 08:44 PM

#16

daddyswheels

Junior User

Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 57

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From: Mpls US

Yo, You DO need to make sure the switch is in the off, or "all the way in" position when you push the little button or lights will be stuck ON--instead of barking knuckles I just use the male end on a long 3/8 socket extension from above and viola! (yeah I know ,it's 'voila') push push, switch stem comes out...

I love my rumbler
'73 F100 4x4
swapped in HOT 302
bored .40 over
650cfm Holley
single plane stacked intake
33 x 9.50 x 15"
we be haulin' ACE!

Jan 19, 2004 | 09:20 PM

#17

Mil1ion

New User

Joined: Jan 2008

Posts: 0

Likes: 24

You're supposed to disconnect the battery if you are going in behind the cluster,that way the headlights stay off & you are safe to have large metal tools in the work area

I appreciate your contribution but, I am still sure though that the shaft has to be pulled out to headlight on position before depressing the release button.

Maybe the switch you have has lost its holding ability.

Jan 20, 2004 | 10:25 PM

#18

79pos

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2003

Posts: 150

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From: Aiken SC

You do have to disconnect the batery because when you pull the **** it is set in the on position. If you don't disconnect the baterry the headlights will be on the whole time your working on it.

Jan 21, 2004 | 06:22 AM

#19

swann79

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Aug 2003

Posts: 1,546

Likes: 46

From: Kemmerer, Wyoming

You can use the ****, once removed, to shut the lights back off...without re-installing the ****. Just push the shaft back in partways enough to turn them off, being careful not to push too hard, or the **** will lock itself back in.

I do it all the time!

Jan 21, 2004 | 07:50 AM

#20

Torque1st

Posting Legend

Joined: Sep 2001

Posts: 30,255

Likes: 37

I have a little wooden dowel that I use to turn the switch back off. It does sometimes take a little finesse to get the button to release, -just a little wiggle.

I always pull the battery cable. I have seen the burns caused by a ring that shorted out a connection. It is best to take off a ring while working but I leave mine on for fear of dropping it...

Jan 21, 2004 | 08:00 AM

#21

1976BeaterF150

Freshman User

Joined: Dec 2002

Posts: 47

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From: Gainesville FL

I don't know, maybe it's different for '76's but I just pulled mine straight off, took alittle pulling but the **** came free. there is not button that you are talking about on my truck, and yes once I had the dash apart I did look, and the switch appears to be original. **** didn't strip or anything, just has a little grabber teeth inside that held it on. Granted that is not removing the shaft, just the ****.

Jan 21, 2004 | 09:26 AM

#22

Torque1st

Posting Legend

Joined: Sep 2001

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It is probably a replacement switch, the OEM units have the button.

Jan 21, 2004 | 10:05 AM

#23

ranger429

Logistics Pro

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 4,238

Likes: 21

From: Northern Illinois

Quote:

what you are referring to by the grabber teeth is what retains the **** on the shaft, not suppost to come off that way. on all the FORD's I have ever worked on they all have the button opposite the plug connector as mil1ion's picture show's, that needs to be pushed down once you have the headlight's all the way on , push button, pull out **** and shaft. once you have it out ever so slightly push it back in and you will turn off the headlight's and the shaft will slide right out. to install just push the shaft in all the way and it will lock in position.

Torque1st I have yet to see a replacement part from any manufacturer that does not have the button on it