Had Distributor Issues
Had Distributor Issues
Want to start off by saying, I seemingly have no more issues with my distributor now, however it was giving me some grief for a couple of months. Me and My '95 F150 5.8l Learned some new things since the last time I posted. (Mainly from here reading through old forums, the Haynes bible, and through theory/guesswork) My last posts have been expunged due to poor ego on my behalf.
Anyways, recently I have had one heck of a time getting to work with random bucking and some issues with idle surging higher than normal only to return around 550-600rpm. I suspected it was a faulty TFI module but couldn't be anymore wrong. The sticker identifying my firing order and spark plug wire diagram was missing from within the engine bay. So Looking through here trying to find out why there is a random misfire/bucking issue I find there is such a thing as crossfire induction. Who knew. Felt like the biggest chump walking out to my trucks engine bay to find out, the wires were just ***** nilly all inside there and not kept away from adjacent firing cylinders wires. Fixed that issue within the night and all was right in the world, until a week later... Tachometer dropout. Heading to work on a particularly cold morning and catch my tachometer signal drop to 0 for a split second and feel an abrupt shudder from the engine losing all ignition.
Oh great I tell myself. I'm experiencing the same issues as my 86 Mustang but with my truck. (For context I have a 1986 Ford Mustang LX Convertible with the 3.8l V6) After 3,600 miles in that car the ignition system fully died. Check plugs, they were fine. Checked wires, they were fine. Checked Ignition Coil, it was fine. Checked Ignition Control Module, It's dead Jim. Replaced the culprit and the car turned back on but now with Tachometer dropout. Okay I'll just tear the distributor down and replace the PIP sensor, no big deal. Local autoparts store has one in stock, don't see why I shouldn't trust them. Anyways, the car still to this day has that issue and I'm ready to make an upgrade to remote mount the TFI module.
Context out of the way and back to my truck, feeling nervous about having to tear the distributor apart knowing that I could very well mess up and it be just like the stang, I ordered the parts anyways. All from RockAuto. Everything Motorcraft except for the TFI and the PIP. Ford doesn't make these parts anymore? For the PIP certainly not, even digging through other TFI systems on other models they don't make a sensor. So for the PIP and the TFI I ended up going with the TFI (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX226) and the PIP (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX237) Reading online didn't inspire confidence in SMPs brand. Now they feature the same part number but with a T-Series. I don't know if anyone remembers the small period of time where PewDiePie was battling the conglomerate T-Series on YouTube to be the first to 100 million subs, but seeing T-Series on a model number just gave me a bad feeling like it was going to be cheaper than the non T branded model.
Now I am fully well aware that saying what I am about to say is going to make it fail ASAP, I have not had these parts fail even after a week thus far. I know that is an absolutely crazy statement and is almost insinuating that I only experience parts that fail. (Seems like I do, really it's just I can't diagnose the problem correctly the first time.) Maybe it's going to go the distance with this aftermarket PIP sensor and TFI Module? Last notes before I submit the thread, Motorcraft does make a black TFI module still, Go search under the Ford>1995>MUSTANG>5.8L V8>Ignition>Ignition Control Module (ICM) tab and you will find a modern Motorcraft module: MOTORCRAFT DY1077. I cannot vouch if it is good or if it will work with similar trucks. All I know is that it is black and it is remote mount. Also for the oil seal at the bottom of the housing I ended up getting: Sierra Marine Oil Seals 18-2022 off of Summit Racing. Put the pointy part to where it is going to interface with the oil and so far? No loss of ignition because the oil is blowing into the distributor. Did a serious stress test the day after and that was towing a 1984 F250 4x4 on a two wheel dolly with a Jeep 360 engine of an unknown year disassembled in the rear bed. Lots of full throttle to get up to speed and no Tachometer Dropout, no hiccups, no nothing.
Cheers,
-Si Hi and a 95 F150
Anyways, recently I have had one heck of a time getting to work with random bucking and some issues with idle surging higher than normal only to return around 550-600rpm. I suspected it was a faulty TFI module but couldn't be anymore wrong. The sticker identifying my firing order and spark plug wire diagram was missing from within the engine bay. So Looking through here trying to find out why there is a random misfire/bucking issue I find there is such a thing as crossfire induction. Who knew. Felt like the biggest chump walking out to my trucks engine bay to find out, the wires were just ***** nilly all inside there and not kept away from adjacent firing cylinders wires. Fixed that issue within the night and all was right in the world, until a week later... Tachometer dropout. Heading to work on a particularly cold morning and catch my tachometer signal drop to 0 for a split second and feel an abrupt shudder from the engine losing all ignition.
Oh great I tell myself. I'm experiencing the same issues as my 86 Mustang but with my truck. (For context I have a 1986 Ford Mustang LX Convertible with the 3.8l V6) After 3,600 miles in that car the ignition system fully died. Check plugs, they were fine. Checked wires, they were fine. Checked Ignition Coil, it was fine. Checked Ignition Control Module, It's dead Jim. Replaced the culprit and the car turned back on but now with Tachometer dropout. Okay I'll just tear the distributor down and replace the PIP sensor, no big deal. Local autoparts store has one in stock, don't see why I shouldn't trust them. Anyways, the car still to this day has that issue and I'm ready to make an upgrade to remote mount the TFI module.
Context out of the way and back to my truck, feeling nervous about having to tear the distributor apart knowing that I could very well mess up and it be just like the stang, I ordered the parts anyways. All from RockAuto. Everything Motorcraft except for the TFI and the PIP. Ford doesn't make these parts anymore? For the PIP certainly not, even digging through other TFI systems on other models they don't make a sensor. So for the PIP and the TFI I ended up going with the TFI (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX226) and the PIP (STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX237) Reading online didn't inspire confidence in SMPs brand. Now they feature the same part number but with a T-Series. I don't know if anyone remembers the small period of time where PewDiePie was battling the conglomerate T-Series on YouTube to be the first to 100 million subs, but seeing T-Series on a model number just gave me a bad feeling like it was going to be cheaper than the non T branded model.
Now I am fully well aware that saying what I am about to say is going to make it fail ASAP, I have not had these parts fail even after a week thus far. I know that is an absolutely crazy statement and is almost insinuating that I only experience parts that fail. (Seems like I do, really it's just I can't diagnose the problem correctly the first time.) Maybe it's going to go the distance with this aftermarket PIP sensor and TFI Module? Last notes before I submit the thread, Motorcraft does make a black TFI module still, Go search under the Ford>1995>MUSTANG>5.8L V8>Ignition>Ignition Control Module (ICM) tab and you will find a modern Motorcraft module: MOTORCRAFT DY1077. I cannot vouch if it is good or if it will work with similar trucks. All I know is that it is black and it is remote mount. Also for the oil seal at the bottom of the housing I ended up getting: Sierra Marine Oil Seals 18-2022 off of Summit Racing. Put the pointy part to where it is going to interface with the oil and so far? No loss of ignition because the oil is blowing into the distributor. Did a serious stress test the day after and that was towing a 1984 F250 4x4 on a two wheel dolly with a Jeep 360 engine of an unknown year disassembled in the rear bed. Lots of full throttle to get up to speed and no Tachometer Dropout, no hiccups, no nothing.
Cheers,
-Si Hi and a 95 F150
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