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1979 Ford Bronco 351m cranks but no spark..

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  #1  
Old 02-26-2014, 09:51 AM
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1979 Ford Bronco 351m cranks but no spark..

Ok here's the story the truck was running back in early 2003 than late 2003 it had a problem which it seem like it would over heat and you had to let it cool for 30min to a hour,

And it would start but ony run for like 15 20min than stall out and do the same problem.

So pretty much we put it in a garage till 2005 cause we had to get rid of the garage,

It started and ran till we got it home than when when we was backing it up in our lot it just stalled and ever sense it just cranks.

So it pretty much sat all this time, So now i want to get it running and restore it to get it back on the road.

Alot of people said it probably is the pickup coil in the distributor cause they known to go, Than i was looking up and saw the Ignition module is a known part that goes which overheats than usely dies. Pretty much sounded like what was happening to mine.

So what i was wondering is there a way to bypass it to see if that's the problem?

I also have a 85 ford e350 custom 4x4 van with a 400 siting to which im also restoring and was wondering will the module from that work in the bronco so i can test to see if that's the problem?

Now the van also quit running couple months i tried to start it after it sat for years and it tried to start but than just quit and just cranks but i think its the wires and spark plugs sense my 85 f150 did the same thing.

But yea i really want to get this thing running before it rusts even more.. The floors are pretty much shot but will be puting new ones in, But want to get it running before everything else.

Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 02-26-2014, 01:51 PM
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The pickup coil in the distributor sounds like the culprit to me too.

I don't think there is any way to bypass that, or the ignition module. Your ignition module is probably mounted on your distributor for that year. I have heard of them overheating and causing issues also, but I'm straying towards your distributor being your problem.

I had the same issue, my truck would run fine, then randomly die and just crank. After about 30 minutes, it would start up fine as if there was no issues. It started happening more and more until it became somewhat dangerous to drive. I replaced my ignition module, wires, plugs etc. until I finally bought a re-manufactured distributor and plopped that in.

The distributor was the problem the whole time. Now, the reman distrbutor I bought only lasted me about 5 months from O'reillys. However, they have a lifetime warranty so I was able to get another for free, but the hassle of diagnosing another problem that was the distributor was very annoying.

I don't know if the module from the 400 will work on the 351. I know that there are 2 or potentially 3 different modules for the 302/351. There is a grey one, a black one, and then maybe a different type of black one. I believe they will all make the vehicle run, but maybe have issues using them in the long run unless you get the proper ignition module for your engine. If the van's module plugs in the 351, you may be able to give that a try, but then again I don't know much about that so you may want to look that up a little more before trying it.

However, like I said, I believe your problem is the distributors pick up sensor.
 
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:55 PM
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One important "rule of thumb" when dealing with any vehicle that has a Duraspark ignition system... assume the module is bad first. If replacement doesn't fix the problem move on to other things.

With that said, there is no way to bypass the Duraspark II module. They are prone to inexplicable failure and the ONLY fix is to replace them. On the other hand, replacement gets the vehicle up and running just as quickly as it failed in most cases. I know many people who still run the DS II and keep a spare "good" DS II module in the truck with them because the modules just don't give you any warning when they go.

And to add further insult to injury, Duraspark modules are both engine AND vehicle specific because they control spark timing for a specific engine in a specific vehicle. So the thought of swapping one module with another in a different vehicle OR with a different engine will not work.

Best bet is to buy a new module for the truck you want to start working on.
 
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:04 PM
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^^ What he said x2. And for the money buy a motorcraft 1.They are more expensive but believe me they are well worth it. You buy 1 of them and get maybe 15 years out of it. You buy 4-5 wells or other aftermarket chinese crap in the same time frame.
 
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by gatorfor88
^^ What he said x2. And for the money buy a motorcraft 1.They are more expensive but believe me they are well worth it. You buy 1 of them and get maybe 15 years out of it. You buy 4-5 wells or other aftermarket chinese crap in the same time frame.
X2 on the motorcraft.
 
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:15 AM
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Ok i decided to take out the ignition modules. And the one on the bronco which was on the side driver fender,

The plug with the 2 wires on the module looks a bit melted, So i think im going to have that tested.

I went to the van and took that one out to see if it would be the same as the broncos, Well it fallen apart lol So that's probably why the van doesint start anymore.

Heres some pics.


http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...psdd286319.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ps20d95abc.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ps9933f38f.jpg


Now heres the vans.


http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ps0b3de951.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...psacaf6248.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ps82baabfa.jpg


I really wish these trucks haven't sat this long.. Just funds was low and still are low, But i want to at least get these engines running.. The good thing these oldies are easy to work on
 
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Old 03-04-2014, 01:14 PM
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Those modules look toasty. Have you tried new ones yet?
 
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:59 PM
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Have updates.

So me and my dad went back out today sense its decent warm out.

And we tested the spark again from the coil wire from the Distributor, And it gets alot of sparks from that,

So does that mean its for sure the pickup coil? It doesn't get no sparks at the spark plug wires at all.

And to get the pickup coil out can it be removed with out taking the Distributor out or will i have to remove it?

Found out the fuel system still working to, Smell gas which is old but still should fire up with it, And found out its leaking out of the front plunger seal so that needs replaced but at least i know its getting gas lol

I always thought the gas tank had a hole in it because i can smell gas were its park at always but that was from another truck we had that has a hole in the tank parked in back of it.

Would replace the Distributor but really dont have the funds for that right now, And if i can easily replace the coil which i can get for 10 to 20$ that would be great.
 
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:57 PM
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Again, replace the module... it CONTROLS the spark timing! This is WHY you get spark at the coil but NOT at the plugs.
 
  #10  
Old 03-09-2014, 10:33 PM
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Found out the fuel system still working to, Smell gas which is old but still should fire up with it, And found out its leaking out of the front plunger seal so that needs replaced but at least i know its getting gas lol
If gas is leaking from pump the diaphragm is ruptured and more than likely will be pumping fuel into the crankcase while it runs. Which will trash all the bearings if not replaced.

Did you replace the ignition module?
 
  #11  
Old 03-10-2014, 10:11 AM
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Hmm i thought if the coil sparks but not the wires than that leads to the pickup coil?

Was doing research on Google and that what usely what i read it narrows it down to the coil. usely from what i herd pickup coils usely a known issues on these engines.

But yea it does also make sense for the module to sense it controls the timing hmm..

But before i buy anything, Will advance auto parts test the box for me? I just don't want to buy one of them and its not the problem because most places don't take them back because its a electric part.

Yea im going to replace the pump diaphragm at the same time to.

thanks.
 
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:11 PM
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Greystreak up there ^^ is a pretty damn good mechanic. I aint a bad back yard mechanic. I would strongly suggest again to replace the module. Otherwise you are pissin in the wind.
 
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:40 PM
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Im not saying grey steak or you a bad mechanic at all, If i was i wouldn't be asking about this problem on this forum lol.

What im going to do is take it to my local advance and see if they can test it and report back with the results.

Is there testers any good they use to test them with?

But yea will leave the Distributor alone for now.
 
  #14  
Old 03-10-2014, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordesky Mco
Im not saying grey steak or you a bad mechanic at all, If i was i wouldn't be asking about this problem on this forum lol.

What im going to do is take it to my local advance and see if they can test it and report back with the results.

Is there testers any good they use to test them with?

But yea will leave the Distributor alone for now.
Having them tested seems to be hit or miss.
 
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:56 AM
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Yea im just going to replace it, they told me they dont have anything to test them with... lol

Seems like that place keeps going down hill each year..


Will report back when i get one
 


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