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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #1  
73FordF100's Avatar
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Ignition Problem

Today I was driving around town and parked for just a few minutes at this place I had to go to. When I was done doing what I had to do, I went to leave and my truck was good and warmed up already but when I went to start it, it wasn't getting spark. It just kept turning over and over again. I was concerned because usually when warmed up, it fires right up. I was sure it was the ignition module (POS). I replaced it not too long ago. It's the duraspark I ignition out of a '75 (green grommet). I'm sure that the heat had something to do with it. It was probably about 90 or so degrees today, it will be this way for a while because we are in a heat wave here in the south. I don't want to have to deal with this problem daily or ever again. So should I go back to points or get the Petronix Ignitor ignition? Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 04:17 PM
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fmc400
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This is not a common problem for Duraspark modules - something is wrong. It certainly could have been the module - if this was the case and the module is new, it's possible the module is faulty - which can happen with aftermarket house brand modules. The other likely culprit is the pickup module in the distributor - this is just as susceptible to heat-related failure and is often overlooked.

I wouldn't recommend going back to points, because while there are no electronic parts to suffer from heat, there are mechanical parts to suffer from wear. After you run electronic ignition for a while, you take for granted not having to gap points every few thousand miles. Points would be a step backward. Switching to Pertronix wouldn't net you any gains; it's the same technology.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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Ok thanks for the info. The ignition module is an aftermarket one, I guess I should get it tested and if it's bad, I will get a Motorcraft one. The magnetic pickup in the distributor has also been replaced not too long ago. I'm guessing it's the ignition module. Where could I get the module tested? Thanks.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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fmc400
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Autozone at least should have a bench machine that can test it - the issue is, however, that most problems only show up once they've heated up. By the time you take it in, it will be cooled down and pass.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:23 AM
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gfw1985
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X2 staying with the Duraspark and Motorcraft module. Not all places stock Pertronics parts if you really need them. NAPA will be more likely to have the better modules.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 12:33 PM
  #6  
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73FordF100
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Originally Posted by fmc400
Autozone at least should have a bench machine that can test it - the issue is, however, that most problems only show up once they've heated up. By the time you take it in, it will be cooled down and pass.
Ok yeah you are right, I've heard of this happening before. Thanks.

Originally Posted by gfw1985
X2 staying with the Duraspark and Motorcraft module. Not all places stock Pertronics parts if you really need them. NAPA will be more likely to have the better modules.
Ok, where can I buy Motorcraft modules? I was looking online last night and couldn't find one at a local parts store. NAPA has these two to choose from: https://napaonline.com/Catalog/Resul...71&Ntk=Keyword
I don't know if these would be reliable.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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I'd have to go with the Echlin. I know it's twice the price, but the other has to be a Chinese module. Only thing bothering me is "gray module". Thats a new one for me. Familiar with blue, green, black modules.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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^^^Yeah I was thinking that one, but I may just keep driving it and see how it does. Today I went out there and just drove it around the yard and it started just fine. If it becomes a huge issue I will definitely buy a NAPA one. I have had this problem before and I replaced it and it did well for maybe about a year or less. The module I have now is gray, the previous one was also gray. I guess when the PO swapped in the DSI ignition, they must have not used the original module. Thanks for the advice.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 06:56 PM
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if you decide to get away from duraspark boxes you can always replace it with an msd box they work with ds dizzys
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 08:03 PM
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If you're going with the NAPA parts, I second the Echlin module.

Rock Auto carries the Motorcraft modules.

And don't discount the fact that it could still be the magnetic pickup. I bought a reman distributor a couple of years ago and not long after I put it in, the pickup failed. Took me a while to find the problem as I didn't believe it could be the anything with the distributor. Replaced it with an Echlin pickup and all has been good. I believe Rock Auto carries Motorcraft magnetic pickups (Motorcraft calls it a stator) as well.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by brown79
if you decide to get away from duraspark boxes you can always replace it with an msd box they work with ds dizzys
Yeah I'd do that but I'm just a kid with very little money and no job (I'm trying).


Originally Posted by firstonraceday
If you're going with the NAPA parts, I second the Echlin module.

Rock Auto carries the Motorcraft modules.

And don't discount the fact that it could still be the magnetic pickup. I bought a reman distributor a couple of years ago and not long after I put it in, the pickup failed. Took me a while to find the problem as I didn't believe it could be the anything with the distributor. Replaced it with an Echlin pickup and all has been good. I believe Rock Auto carries Motorcraft magnetic pickups (Motorcraft calls it a stator) as well.
Yeah both the module and the pickup has been replaced not too long ago. They both are cheap ones, that could be the problem. I don't want to buy both because only one of them could be the problem. I'll just keep driving it and see if it becomes a major issue. Right now, I'm not driving it much because school's out for summer.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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I posted this in another thread and would like to mention it here. You didn't say the module was for sure but that you believed it to be the culprit. If you can find a working spare then use it next ime this problem occurs. Throwing parts at a vehicle can be very expensive and frusrtating especially on a budget, there is always a way to diagnose before replacing parts so please do your best as I have been in your shoes it sucks.
"I have a theory but Icant remember the term to use. In some cases fuel if left in a hot carburator long enough can expand to the point that it will over flow out of the carb and depends on carb design where. This will cause a flooding effect and therefore not restart until the fuel has evaporated from the intake. This can be tested simply by holding the throttle all the way to the floor while you try to start it. If this helps then the remedy would be to double check your float level adjustment and remedy as needed. You may go a little below spec if the float is level is OK. If you list your carb we may be able to help you with adjustments as needed. I dont know about CA but fuel here as ethenol blended into it and has posed many issues with aquiantances I have."
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 05:40 AM
  #13  
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gfw1985
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Do you have a volt/ohmeter and knowledge to use it? I can provide the information to test everything. I rarely replace parts until I prove them bad. Your gut feeling of heat related could also be the coil or a number of other things.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #14  
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Burburan
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Woudn't mind finding out what it was, since I am currently using points and am on the fence about going to an electic system. Points can be a pain in the extreame heat and in really wet weather. Still contemplating this change!
 
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #15  
73FordF100's Avatar
73FordF100
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Originally Posted by FESTER1st
I posted this in another thread and would like to mention it here. You didn't say the module was for sure but that you believed it to be the culprit. If you can find a working spare then use it next ime this problem occurs. Throwing parts at a vehicle can be very expensive and frusrtating especially on a budget, there is always a way to diagnose before replacing parts so please do your best as I have been in your shoes it sucks.
"I have a theory but Icant remember the term to use. In some cases fuel if left in a hot carburator long enough can expand to the point that it will over flow out of the carb and depends on carb design where. This will cause a flooding effect and therefore not restart until the fuel has evaporated from the intake. This can be tested simply by holding the throttle all the way to the floor while you try to start it. If this helps then the remedy would be to double check your float level adjustment and remedy as needed. You may go a little below spec if the float is level is OK. If you list your carb we may be able to help you with adjustments as needed. I dont know about CA but fuel here as ethenol blended into it and has posed many issues with aquiantances I have."
Ok I will have to check that out. Thanks for the advice!

Originally Posted by gfw1985
Do you have a volt/ohmeter and knowledge to use it? I can provide the information to test everything. I rarely replace parts until I prove them bad. Your gut feeling of heat related could also be the coil or a number of other things.
No I don't have one of those, but thanks. I'll just have to see how it does the next time I drive it.
 
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