I was checking out a past forum thread on tune-up parts for a 400cid/6.6L engine, and user Mil1ion listed a "pickup module" on his short list of parts that can leave one stranded. I'm putting together a list of parts for tuning up this sized engine on my '78 F150 Lariat and want to evaluate whether it's worth adding to the list...but I can't determine what this part is or what it's actually called. Here is the thread link for reference: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...1m-tuneup.html

The truck is new to me, has a pretty smooth running engine already, but was in storage for five years on a farm before I got it. A good tune-up is part of restoring it's potential. It's not gonna be a daily driver. It will be a weekend fun truck and rescue truck for the winter snow of Southeast Idaho. I don't mind spending a little more on good quality tune-up parts because I'm expecting this to be it's last major tune-up. Parts recommendations are welcomed, too, of course. Thanks, all.

 

They are referring to the magnetic pickup under the rotor inside the distributor. When they fail, you will not get any spark. Had one fail on mine last summer, I assumed ignition module due to no spark condition, but usually an ignition module will start "acting up" and your truck will shut down when the ignition module warms up in the engine bay. Engine shuts down, wait awhile for it to cool and it will fire back up. It will do this a few times in most cases before completely failing.

I swapped ignition module but still didn't get any spark. Did notice that as soon as I let off the key I would get a spark, but during cranking no spark. That spark after letting off the key is common when the magnetic pickup fails.

It's a good idea to keep a spare of the magnetic pickup, ignition module and a coil. Or keep a spare distributor since swapping the magnetic pickup is a bit more involved than swapping coil, ignition module or even the distributor itself.

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what I am reading is that the magnetic pickup is already part of the distributor, and I am assuming it's not in the cap, but is a type of distributor. A quick web search sounds like magnetic pickups are an upgrade from points-type distributors. Is this accurate? I don't want to order a combination of parts that are not compatible :-) Thanks.

 

Yes, the magnetic pickup is part of the distributor, under the rotor you will see a metal piece that has 8 "arms" evenly spaced, those arms pass by a magnet and essentially tell the ignition module when to discharge the coil to send a charge to the spark plug. The magnetic pickup did replace the points style setup and works in conjunction with an electronic ignition module.

Upgrade I would say is subjective, points were quite reliable when adjusted properly. They did require occasional maintenance and adjustment where electronic ignition doesn't have the same level of maintenance or adjustment to speak of. Where points struggle are higher rpm applications as they can start to float. You rarely see that high of RPM in a truck though, at least under normal conditions.

https://www.reincarnation-automotive...ons_index.html
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Great info.
So, if I've got a stock distributor, I'll have a points set up and the "pickup module" question is a moot point. And that gets me closer to the original goal of putting together a good list of needed tune-up parts. Thanks, mterickson.

 

You should have electronic ignition unless someone swapped in a points distributor from an older vehicle. '75 was the first year for the trucks that had electronic ignition. You can tell pretty easy just looking at the cap the Duraspark distributors for a 78 truck will be a bigger in diameter cap and will have male terminals on it. The older points style distributor used a smaller diameter cap with female sockets. There are however some early duraspark distributors that used the smaller points style cap with female sockets so that is not a 100% reliable indicator

On your truck you will see the ignition module on the drivers inner fender near the hood hinge. It will have a handful of wires coming out of that will route along firewall to passenger side of engine and connect to the coil and distributor.

 

Oh, okay. I'll get under the hood this weekend and confirm that I have that larger electronic distributor. If so, then it sounds like that is the type that does have the magnetic pickup module, correct?
Btw, thanks for posting the thread on your rebuild. Lots of great information there to help others starting on a similar path.

 

For a tune-up there is no need to replace the magnetic pickup or ignition module. Not a bad idea to keep spares though because they rarely fail in your driveway or in the parts store parking lot. The module only takes a few minutes to swap out, magnetic pickup a little longer and it may actually be faster and easier to just swap the distributor. You can usually pickup a reman'd distributor for about the same cost of a magnetic pickup so if you're grabbing spare parts just in case, grab a distributor to keep as a spare. If you do get one, not a bad idea to install it and make sure it works and then take it back out and put on the shelf, or take your known working dizzy that you removed and put it on the shelf as a spare. I keep a spare coil too.

For the actual tune-up, that typically includes plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Keep the old parts for spares, as parts are getting harder to find these days.

For the cap and rotor, brass is preferred over aluminum, most parts stores usually carry a "cheap" line and a "premium" line of ignition parts, the premium will have brass parts in most cases.

For plugs, I don't bother (on these trucks) with any of the platinum or multi-terminal or whiz bang featured fancy plug that make all sorts of claims as to why they're superior. I stick with standard autolite or motorcraft and make sure they are gapped properly, there are always at least one that is off significantly. NGK are good plugs too. I am not a fan of a champion plug unless I am working on my lawn mower.

Wires might be okay and you can test them to make sure they're within spec with an multi-meter, but it is good to have spares of those too.

Fuel filter should be changed and of course an oil change is never a bad idea. Use a quality filter such as Wix or Motorcraft or even a K&N if you're willing to spend the money. I won't touch a Fram unless I have no other choice.

You can change the PCV valve too since and while you're at it check all the vacuum lines and not a bad idea to change those regardless. Vacuum line isn't expensive, but it can cause all sorts of headaches if they leak.

Valve covers like to leak as well, so you might choose to change valve cover gaskets while you're in there doing the work. Check the coolant and if you suspect it has been in there for a long time, drain the radiator and replace it with some fresh coolant and distilled water (or spend more money for pre-mixed). 50/50 mix is typical but if you live in a very hot or very cold environment you may want to change that.

Change the air filter and the crankcase filter inside the air cleaner housing (if it's still the original)

Check all the v-belts for cracks, the cracks will appear on the inside where they ride on the pulleys.

Powersteering uses Type-F ATF and not power steering fluid.

If it's automatic you can use that for the transmission too, transmission fluid needs to be checked with engine running, in park at operating temp.

After swapping what you need to and inspecting everything else, get the truck to operating temp, make sure choke is fully open and check the ignition timing then adjust air/fuel mixture and idle speed.

I also like to check all my light bulbs, tire pressures, and fluid levels of transmission, transfer case and differentials, inspect u-joints and ball joints and grease everything that has a grease zerk. Also top off the windshield washer fluid if your reservoir is still there and not leaking.

 

I would like to add a bit of info that will save you time and money in the near future. Most of the pick up modules in our trucks were MotorCraft from the factory and lasted 40+ years. What you are going to get in the parts houses are made in China. The one I bought lasted 1 year. Then I went on ebay and bought a NOS (new, old stock) motorcraft one, and it has been running for years now. Don't waste your $ on the parts house ones.

 

A great thread for sure, nice list mterickson. I just want to add that when you get a spare Ignition module aka "Brain Box". Make sure and store it in a cool dry place, with the solid side of the module facing down. Because the back side of the module has a filler material, that is solid when you buy it new.

But once stored in the truck (like the glove box, or behind the seat, over time heat can melt that filler material and then it is the worlds strongest glue. So always store it face up and leave it in it box it came in. And if and when that stuff melts and the cover box gets stuck in it, just tear all the rest of the cardboard off and use the part as needed.

And even when installed, that stuff can melt and all the (better than gorilla glue and JB weld combined) will run down the inner fenderwell.