2001 F250 7.3 243k . Trying to give as much details possible
Cold morning in Fl today . Approximately 33*.
Went to fire my truck up as usual. Wait to start, and as usual for cold mornings she starts a little rough. She doesn’t like cold mornings. This time she was idling a little more rough. After a minute or so . She started to get a little rougher, and shuts off. I attempted to start her again . Rough idle and a quick shut off.I believe white smoke was puffing and I believe a burnt smell. I let her sit.
I waited and try again. Let the glow plugs warm up past the wait to start light. Just cranks. I get out and look things over and noticed a puddle of oil under my truck and see a clear like fluid. Look for something leaking. Just the normal leakage from my oil cooler that I’ve been keeping an eye on. my fuel gauge was under quarter of a tank . I do add either Lucas or another fuel conditioner every second or third fill up
I do know I need to rebuild my oil cooler. Just haven’t had time to. Either the weather is bad or someone calls up saying they’re having issues with their car/truck.
Decided to call a tow truck . As I was waiting. I decided one more time to attempt starting. It fires up , and still has a rough idle , but didn’t want to drive it . Didn’t want oil and coolant mixing inside with the oil cooler seal .
checked fluids all seam good .
Get towed home . Unload and fire her up again. Rough idle still . Pull into driveway and shut her off.
I use Schaffers’s 5W40 and Zyrtex gold coolant. Coolant filter
any help in where I should start?
thank you

 

Bumping to see if I can get some help

 

Start by getting the oil cooler resealed. How old are the injectors? Cold misfire that clear as the engine warms is a classic signature of injector poppet valve seat wear. Do you have a scan tool that can do an injector electrical self test (buzz test)?

 

What are the odbc codes?

you have an oil controlled fuel system that uses a oil hydraulic system to operate injectors vs the fuel fluid controlled ones we have today. Have you tried oil pan heater preferably or block heater marginally. The oil pan heater screws into some aftermarket oil pans.

 

did a buzz test . Everything came back ok. Injectors are 1.5-2 years old . So not very old . Can’t remember exact date . I did find one issue . The exhaust back pressure sensor had some carbon built up. I’ve taken the line off a couple times over the years and cleaned it out . I ordered a new sensor and line . Should be here Wednesday.
the oil cooler I will take off tomorrow clean and inspect.
thanks for the response. I’ll update next weekend

 

When you did the buzz test, was the engine cold or warm? It should be done cold soaked, and the important part is to listen to them. Any that sound quiet of muffled compared to the others warrant further investigation. The clearance between the armature plate and poppet body can be checked with feeler gauges. That requires removing the valve cover and injector solenoid, but can be done without removing the injector from the head. A new injector has about 0.004" of clearance. The injector will start to misfire cold when the lower poppet seat wears and allows the clearance to get down close to 0.0015" or so.

 

Motor was cold .
I then started the truck to see how it was idling. Still rough . Had my scan gauge on there . That’s how I found the code P0476. Exhaust back pressure sensor.
I tried cleaning it out a little and installing it back on . Truck won’t start now . Just cranks . Found the parts on Amazon and ordered. Just waiting for them to arrive .
No CEL was activated.

 

Since you mentioned an oil leak, I have to ask if you've pulled the dipstick. I kind of doubt that's the problem by your description, but it's happened to people in the past.

 

I finally was able to work on the old girl. Got the oil cooler leak taken care of , and did the exhaust back pressure sensor replaced . Cleaned out the tube also.
Refilled all fluids coolant and oil. Drained fuel bowl to just get a visual of diesel. Good.
Went to start and it turns over easy, but no start. Acts like it wants to , but it doesn’t seem like it wants to start on all cylinders. Like a knock start.
Still no codes on dash.
Where should I start looking next?
Old girl been sitting to long for my liking, and I want to get her running
appreciate any help.

 

Been looking up videos on YouTube on my free time . Would the low or high pressure oil pump cause these issues?
I remembered a few days before i had these issues. I noticed a little bit of a stumble in idle. So I also replaced the CPS.

 

Did some more work . Checked oil level in HPOP. Good . Was just about an inch below cap.
I have fuel pressure
after watching another video . With crank no start. It sounds like my IPR sensor might have gone bad.
any thoughts???

 

Diagnosing these problems by swapping parts without data gets expensive in a hurry. You really should have a scan tool for this. Most people use ForScan for WinD'ohs with an OBDLink EX adapter, or sometimes Torque Pro on Android with a generic ELM Bluetooth adapter.

 

I know. . I only bought the part cause several videos I came across had similar issues and they said it was good to have as a backup.
I’ve been using my neighbors Reach diagnostics to help diagnose the problems. I did have auto enginuity scan tool, but my laptop took a dump. I used that for many years.
I need to look into Forescan and a good OBD2 tool or a good diagnostic tablet from Amazon for all vehicles