Is the circuit hot all time or is it switched? Would that matter to you for your application? Is there a dedicated "lighter" circuit in your fuse panel to use instead? I would think there would be. What is the fuse rated for the antenna circuit? Will your charger draw fit into that limit?

 

I used the electric choke circuit for the lighter/power point. I don't think any of my EZWire kits had an antenna circuit.

ETA: I did some reading. The power antenna typically has 3 wires: Black (Ground). Blue (signal from the radio. Low current only hot with the radio is on.) Red (Hot all the time)
If the wire you asked about is a red "Power antenna Pwr" wire, you could use it for the lighter/power point. It would be hot all of the time.
I used the electric choke so it would only be hot with the key is on. Personal choice.

 

Perfect. I will use the electric choke wire, which is in my bundle of unused wires.

I need a pull switch for the headlights. Is there a cheap option? Everything I see is over $50.

 

Any reason you cannot use the existing light switch?

 

Not sure. These are the switches that came with the truck in a box. I am pretty sure the one with no pull was wired when I got the truck. Maybe I can buy a pull?

 

The longer 5 screw terminal switch is the factory switch. If you are just missing the pull, it can be purchased separately.

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tru...headlight-****

https://www.lmctruck.com/electrical/...light-switches

 

@bmoran4 Any issues with my switch to 12v?

 

Generally, low voltage switches don't care about the differences in 6V and 12V.

Just a curiosity, are you using a relay in your headlight circuitry?

 

Not unless it is included in the ezwire kit. I do have a relay for the horn that was included?

 

This is the same switch I used in mine. I wanted my front parking lights (Brown Left Front Parking) to stay on when the headlights were on, so I hooked them to the "R" terminal.
Also, the EZWire only has one power wire for the lights (Red Headlight Power) the 5-terminal switch takes two. I ran a jumper from one "B" post to the other. (Mine says "HB" yours just says "B". Same thing.)

Here is the way I wired mine. If you want the front parking lights to go off when the headlights are on (the way they did from the factory) hook them (Brown Left Front Parking) to the "P" terminal.


Jumper from "B" terminal to "B" terminal:

 

Is this what I need for the headlight relay?



https://vintageautogarage.com/relay-...sOcw_nh5ATzdjd

 

You may find an all encompassing harness like these examples much easier and more economical:



https://www.ebay.com/itm/255437504656

 

I bought the relay of the headlights. Is it better to cut these wires and use the connector that came with the realy or just splice the old wires into the new relay wires?

 

What specifically did you acquire?

The suggestions I shared will plug directly into the existing bulb socket.

 

Yes I got those. I Would need to cut the new plugs and snake the wires them through the hole and reconnect correctly? Or should i just drill out a hole big enough to fit the plug through