Perfect. Thank you for taking the time to reply.

 

Just know that if you are using original fuel, oil, and/or temp gauges, they need appropriate voltage reduction strategy to avoid damaging them from the 12V system you have.

 

OK. How do I handle that?

 

Does each wire need a resistor?

 

First step would be to look around the gauges and their wiring to see if any system has already been installed. There are various styles (as therefore shapes and form factors). Take a few pictures and share here so we can help you identify.

These are not to be confused with the resistors used for ignition coil voltage control.

 

Does there need to be a wire from the solenoid to the coil? If yes can I tie it into the wire from the resistor?

 

This is a completely different question from the voltage reducer discussion that was happening.

I'm guessing you are specifically asking about possibly using the I terminal to bypass the ignition coil resistor at crank. The stock truck wouldn't have that.

What specific starter solenoid and ignition switch are you using? There are a few different types that are wired differently. Generally all have a power in (from battery), power out (to the starter), and a trigger (run signal from the ignition switch). Where things differ is the run signaling. Early Ford setups use a completed ground as the trigger signal relying on the power from the battery to be on a specific side. Other styles are looking for a power signal and grounded through the mount/frame. But it gets even more complex than that. Some have two small terminals that can be used for the trigger circuit, one being ground and the other a hot (and both must be completed for a trigger). Some also have two small terminals, but one is a trigger, the other goes to the coil to give resistance bypass for spark on startup. There can be variations from these as well. It really depends upon the specific starter relay. Some are very explicit on which side is the battery side and starter side as a nature of the design. Others don't care one bit because the large terminals are not a part of actual electromagnet circuit.

If you find yours does have the I terminal for crank ignition bypass, you wire that I terminal directly to the coil terminal that also is wired to the resistor (or to the terminal on the resistor that goes to the coil).

 

Is this it?

 

That picture is your circuit breakers.

 

With the fuse panel this no longer needed correct?

 

That is a "it depends", but it is likely. Save the breaker assembly as they are not reproduced or readily marketed.

 

I wired the rear lights on the truck. I am on to the wires into the Master Cylinder, Brake Switch and Brake switch Power (Correct?). Unless I am missing something, these wires from EZ Wire are pretty short. Where should I run these to under the truck? I was going to run them through the firewall and under like I did with the rear wiring for the lights.

 

I ran the horn, tail lights, brake switch, and brake switch power in the same bundle going under the cab.
Do you have, or will you have turn signals?

 

@EffieTrucker Yes I will have Turn Signals. I have the dual filament bulbs.

 

Any issues of using the "Pwr Antenna" wire for my cigarette lighter to be used for cell phone charging?

Thank you.