Mounted the fuse panel and ran the front and rear wire bundles. Ran the rear down through the front of the fire wall and along the frame of the truck. Tomorrow I am going to wire up the front and rear lights.

 

Would it look cleaner if you turned the fuse box 90 degrees clockwise so the wires weren't pointing down at your feet, but staying tucked in under the dash and a straighter shot at the firewall exit??

 

I didn't think of that. I was just installing it so I could read the print on the box.

 

I used one of those EZ wire kits on a different vehicle. It was fun and easy to do.
Be sure to get the stock grommet for the firewall hole. Also, I was going to recommend getting the tar coated harness loom from Rhode Island Wiring for a more time period look....but they seem to have closed doors.

 

Wire Depot has the asphalt coated wire loom cover. Period correct look. I have used the cover on 2 trucks.

 

I'm not sure why they always seem to bundle the wires so they are directed down. I'm on my third kit made by them. What I did was put tie-raps loosely where theirs were then cut theirs and rearranged the wires pointing up, removing wires not needed too helps. I also made a bracket so the fuse panel sits away from the firewall to allow room for the bundle of wires. Looked for pictures of what I did but couldn't find any..

 

If it doesn't have to be absolutely correct, but you like the look, Painless makes a wrap that looks close:


Power Braid "Classic"

 

Can someone help me with the fusible link? Where would it go? Is i only for trucks with an alternator?

Thank you agaion for all the help

 

They are typically located between the power into the fuse panel and the battery. It protects the fuse panel from a short between the individual fuses and the source.

I added a master fuse in it's place.


ETA: I think the wire is marked "Solenoid Power". I know it's a fairly heavy red wire.
ETA: I looked up the detail in my EZ Wire manual:

 

Do I just splice the fusible link wire to the red wire and attach the fusible link to the solenoid?

Thank you

 

I wired up the horn, headlights, and parking lights today. I think it looks pretty good.

 

Yes. That would give the maximum protection.

 

It does look pretty good but, myself I would move the ground on the radiator frame/flange somewhere else as it could eventually cause coolant electrolysis and make it leak. I have seen that at a lot of car shows when guys use the radiators for grounds for their pusher/puller fans and headlights. Handy place for a ground no doubt, but the return current should be tied to a better ground path.

 

Everyone has been great with answering questions. Please bear with me for a bit more. I feel like I am so close to fully understanding what I am doing. Wires I have left:

1. Front Left Turn Signal
2. Front Right Turn Signal
a. I think I am going to leave these out. I do not need them in NYS (Pre 1953)
b. I think I am going cap and wrap under dash for future

3. Fan wire
4. Alternate Ext wire
5. Alternate Power wire-
a. Cap and wrap under the dash in case I ever switch over

6. Power Antenna - Cut and Cap under dash

7. AC Compressor - Cut and Cap under dash

Thoughts??

8. Oil Sending? What is this? I have a clear tube that is hooked up to the Oil filter. Does the Oil Send wire go somewhere else?

Here are the wires I need to hook up. I am a little confused with the ez wire directions. They do not have the resistor in the diagram, and it looks a little different from the truck's previous wire hookup from the previous owner.

1. Tachometer - Not exactly sure what to do with this wire.
   
2. Temp Send - same as above
   
3. Solenoid Heavy wire - Splice in the Fusible Link and connect on Solenoid with the battery positive connection.
   
4. Switch Starter- Where does this go? Does it go to resistor first than to the Solenoid battery side?
   
5. Coil Pos. - Does this go to the resistor first and then to the positive Ignition Coil?
   
   
   Attached is a picture I have so far.
   
   

 

1, 2, a, b:
I rolled up everything I didn't use and stuffed it inside the space behind the driver's side kick-panel.


3, 4, 5, a: Same as above.

6, 7:
Same as above.

8: If you're not using the electric oil pressure gauge you don't need this. I'd still stuff it behind the kick panel, just in case.

The other wires:
Tachometer: If you don't have tachometer, coil it with the other unused wires. You might want one someday. I didn't have one originally but added it about a year later.

Temp Send: It goes to the temperature gauge sending unit on the engine if you're using the original electric gauges. If you're not, you don't need it.

Solenoid Heavy Wire: You got it. Splice to the fusible link and connect to the battery side of solenoid.

Switch Starter: This goes to the small terminal marked "S" on the solenoid. This is what activates the solenoid to crank the engine. No resister needed.

Coil Pos: This goes to the resistor which goes to the + side of the coil if it's negative ground. To the - side if it's positive ground.