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DTC CEL error Codes - Issue or ignore ?

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Old Jan 14, 2026 | 07:49 AM
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DTC CEL error Codes - Issue or ignore ?

Don’t want to drag this out or ask anything that’s been covered prior….I purchased a truck 2 years ago and had to store it at a friends house due to my military service overseas at the time. After approx 22 months sitting I was able to get it and drive to my house about 2500 miles. No issues on the drive at all. 2003 Ford Excursion 7.3 auto 4wd.

upon getting it home 2 new batteries, oil/ filter/AR100, , fuel filter, added some winter fuel additive to tank, air filter, replaced all the fuel bowl gaskets. During the fuel bowl removal I noticed the IPR nut and the spacer was laying in the valley (I cleaned them up to include the connection and re-installed)

I had a CEL pop up but truck runs strong so I used my FORScan to turn the CEL off…cam back on.

current codes showing in pics… I did a buzz test and the cylinder contribution test attached with no issues both good…the passenger side valve harness coming off the main harness looks chalky but seems to be connected well….truck starts and runs great … should I ignore the CELs or take further action or just run it and see how it does in the warmer weather possible the cold is causing this electronic issues/ fault codes? Thanks



 

Last edited by HG Taylor; Jan 14, 2026 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2026 | 06:06 PM
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The B1352 is related to the door chime. The injector 1 code is check the UVCH and make sure it’s tight.
 

Last edited by Socket; Jan 14, 2026 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 10:59 PM
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With it going from no codes to stored to lots of codes, I suspect a critter got in and chewed stuff.

It sounds like you can keep driving without doing major harm. You might get lucky if you keep driving by making some issue bad enough to be able to diagnose further, and find the root of most or all of the issues . . . like if it quits and you find no CPS signal and chase that down and find a whole harness chewed through.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2026 | 01:45 AM
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Congrats on the cool rig! And thanks for your service.

The P1316 coming back stands out to me. OEM IDMs have a bad habit of taking in water when splashed. I'd suggest pulling yours (loosen the LF wheel well liner, it's located pretty much where the fender badge is) and shaking it. If you hear water inside time to repair or replace. Chattanooga Diesel is the best.

Also a quick and easy check is inspecting the underside of the wire harness on the driver side that goes to the 42 pin connector. It can chafe on the valve cover and cause random shorts. Bit of split heater hose zip tied to hold it in place will protect from that contact.





 
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