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Got it all apart yesterday......man I forgot how much I hate top end work on this truck due to its height and just all around PITA
The o-dawg manifold, along with the BPD oil lines draped across the top would have made it next to impossible to take a short cut.
The plenum o-ring was split down the center. Most I've seen are compressed and leak, but this had a split down the center and I can't believe it only leaked as little as it was.
As mentioned in other posts regarding the BD up pipes and bellows I installed that was rubbing on the firewall stud for the coolant pipe, that is getting addressed as well along with replacing the firewall pipe that leaked after only 8 years (SMH).
Since it is out, I am able to swap the egr cooler o-ring that BTW is the same part number as the o-ring used in the coolant heater pipe.
Anyway have a long day ahead of me.....did I mention I hate this?
Last edited by joe blow; Oct 11, 2025 at 08:12 AM.
The most important part is I was able to fix the BD up-pipe issue I didn't catch on install earlier this year. It drove me crazy seeing soot in the engine bay because the bellows never mated into the turbine housing with that positive click. I wrapped all pieces with titanium wrap and added a turbo blanket I had in a box for 10 yrs. Needless to say with all that extra stuff in sight, it concealed the stud contact.
I should be good to go until the next thing this girl throws at me,
The most important part is I was able to fix the BD up-pipe issue I didn't catch on install earlier this year. It drove me crazy seeing soot in the engine bay because the bellows never mated into the turbine housing with that positive click. I wrapped all pieces with titanium wrap and added a turbo blanket I had in a box for 10 yrs. Needless to say with all that extra stuff in sight, it concealed the stud contact.
I should be good to go until the next thing this girl throws at me,
That "doughnut" o-ring is such a lazy and stupid design imho!
The underneath end of the manifold should have had V taper that slid into a 3/4'' round silicone or high end rubber gasket that sits where the doughnut O-ring sits to make it a beefier and longer lasting seal.
The crap part is you are forced to take the whole top half off to replace it.
I understand there are shortcuts, but I've always been the guy that thinks shortcuts are a recipe for re-work.
No way in hell I was going to do all this and end up with a leak.
Oh well, a few days of work and it is good to go for another 5+ years or more.
I was lucky enough to get away with just loosening all the intake bolts to give enough clearance to remove the old one and slide the new one in. I did mine outside in -10c temps so I went with the faster route, but if it was summer I'd have taken the whole thing apart.
Since it is out, I am able to swap the egr cooler o-ring that BTW is the same part number as the o-ring used in the coolant heater pipe.
If anyone has the part number, please post it here for future reference. I don't need it anymore, but I've never been able to find it and that always bugged the hell out of me.
That's the part, but is it the same for the early coolers?
The product page says it's for 05-07. The diagram shows an 03-04 intake elbow with the newer cooler and intake manifold. Or was this common configuration for the later 04's and/or early 05's?
That "doughnut" o-ring is such a lazy and stupid design imho!
The underneath end of the manifold should have had V taper that slid into a 3/4'' round silicone or high end rubber gasket that sits where the doughnut O-ring sits to make it a beefier and longer lasting seal.
Something like this:
Originally Posted by wpg_250
It's still a lazy design regardless.
Using a taper along with compression would stress the O-ring more than it is, due to compression and expansion. I'm fine with it as it is.
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