I have a 1989 f350 I can’t get the ****ing top bolt out how do I do it? The frame is ****ing chipping in my face. and there’s rust all over me.

 

The trick for the top bolt is actually very simple; Place the bottom bolt back in, and just bottom it out (snug). You need a handful of 1/2 drive extensions to pick from and having a short and deep socket will help to find the right combo too. Anyway, find a combo to where your extension w/ socket, reaches very, very close to even with the rear of the starter, measuring on the bottom bolt so you can find the right setup. Now set the combo using just your fingers, up on the top bolt and now you can put your ratchet on and break it free. You'll notice if you turn it all the way out, your ratchet will then hit the frame. If that happens, you need to turn it back in, enough to get your ratchet off, and then by then, you'll be able to wiggle the starter (loosen your bottom bolt that you put back in now) and while wiggling and turning the socket w/ extension out with your fingers, you'll get it. Lastly remove the bottom bolt and pull her out.

If you can't even get the socket w/ extension on the top bolt, this means someone before you, didn't place the wires on the starter to leave the gap for the bolt access and I'm afraid if this is the case, it's simply going to be a PITA until you can get it. Try getting the wire off, lose, or pry it out of your way somehow so your combo can get up on the bolt and line up directly to the back of the starter.
Take note when you go to put the wire on, where it needs to be snugged down, in such a way to be able to easily get the socket/extension on the top bolt, without interference for next time.


Don't worry about the rust in the face and the eyes. That's all just part of the fun. Rust and diesel make you smell manly.

 

Wobble extensions are your friend for this job. It really is not that bad of a job. I use 3/8 drive myself as you have a bit more room. 1/4 drive also works if the bolt is not real tight. If you have one a flex handle ratchet can give you a little more of an advantage. Have fun and be sure you have the batteries disconnected.

 

I cut the head off of a stainless bolt to make a stud, buttered it up with JB Weld and put it in the top hole. Threaded the cut end into engine so as to leave good starting threads on end. Double nut the stud to put it in.
Now I can hang the starter on it when reinstalling.
Stainless so the nut can't sieze to the stud.

 

How difficult is getting the nut on? That seems like it might be harder. You can only have the stud sticking out so far, in order to fit the starter in, so it has to be tucked up in the back still.

 

I got an extra long bolt for the top and put a nylon lock nut on it. Now I can tighten the starter and the top bolt/lock nut is easy to get to.

 

I like that idea! You can fit it up, using the bottom bolt mount, to see where your stop nut needs to go. Slick.

 

Just be thankful you are not dealing with a 40MT Delco about 3 feet above your head. Not only is the 3rd bolt out of sight like the one in the IDI's, that starter weights much more. Makes one appreciate an easy starter such as what the IDI uses.

 

Yes, the OBS might be heavier than a VW Rabbit, but it's just as easy yo work on......
I jam nuts into sockets with a strip of tape or anything else handy to keep them from falling out.
Plumbers Putty is what most mechanics keep in thier toolbox.
We used it to keep that top starter bolt in place when installing VW & Porsche motors, Back Then, sigh.