What additives does everyone use? To keep these old engine purring like new?

FE360 V8

 

I just change oil and filter. Last few years, I've been using Chevron DeloLE 15w40 and either Purolator Gold or Motorcraft filters, though It's had a few Fram filters on it.

In 1992 I added a bottle of Slick 50 to it and drove to western Georgia, truck had 75K miles on it, it lost most all oil pressure going down but I thought was a sender. I drove it to a race, then home with some tools, was near about 800 or so miles after I noticed the pressure drop. Got home, tried a real mechanical gauge, had 4 psi. I rolled in new rod and mains, and never used Slick 50 again. I don't know if the Slick 50 saved it or caused it, but several older Ford mechanics said was about due for a 351M. I just rolled in a new set in 2023 about 30K later, just to inspect it.

Delo is often said to be for diesels, but it's for gas engines too. I started using it because my two GoldWings liked it, made the transmissions shaft like butter ..... and I had bought a bunch.
SAE Grade: SAE 15W40 .......... API: SM, CJ-4

I just used the last of it, so I'll give it thought. I don't have the GoldWings now, but I do have a couple cases of Kendall GT-1 20w50 I might mix with something slightly thinner.

 

Most of engine damage occurs when the engine is first started because the oil has drained off the internal moving parts.
Best way to fight that is with a full synthetic oil but full synthetics with zinc, like Valvoline VR1 Racing oil gets expensive.

A good oil like mentioned above is without question the next best thing.
Buy a quality oil and oil filter and change them every 3000 miles.
Keep using quality air filters too and never blow them out with compressed air because that tear tiny holes in the paper element that let dirt in and make sure the filter seals. WIX makes quality filters and personally I would never use K&N filters. I use Motorcraft oil filters myself.

The call oil additives snake oil for a reason.

 

Yeah, but is it expensive compared to wiping a cam and then having to buy some cheap chinese crap that might fail and ruin your engine? I say spring for the extra money. In my later years I have learned that peace of mind is worth it’s weight in gold.

 

Agree with Rubiranch - most damage happens when the oil film has drained off. I've seen several engines ruined because they were simply left for extended periods and started up "dry". Bent pushrods is a prime example. Valve guides don't get much lubrication by design, leave the engine sit too long and it can spell disaster.

Now, on to your question! What additives? Nothing here, just Mobil 1 synthetic.

 

According to Mobil's website "Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40 oil already contains a higher level of ZDDP (1,000 ppm) that could benefit your flat tappet engine. We also have a Mobil 1™ High Mileage 10W-40 (1,000 ppm); see the Mobil 1™ Product Guide listing the phosphorous levels for all Mobil 1™ synthetic motor oils."

 

I run Mobile 1 high mileage full synthetic in my car, 170,000 miles and it still doesn't use any oil.
I ran the same in my 2011 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 gas and with 257,000 miles with about the last 50k hauling my 4200 lb Lance truck camper I never added oil between the 5000 oil changes and like my car I never had any engine issues.
When I "freshen up" the engine in my 1976 F-250 I'll run Valvoline VR1 full synthetic 20w50 racing oil with 1400 ppm for the flat tappet cam.
Sure was easier back in the day when everything had flat tappet cams and all engine oils had zinc in them.

 

Not really a believer in snake oils but this works. I’ve used on everything from Italian cars to Landcruisers to my 48 & 77.
Stops or slows oil leaks.
https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/mot...d93uJ2COH#2020

 

I've heard of Slick 50 clogging the filter and blowign it off!