Well it's time to climb back under the hood and I don't want tooooo....

Came out of the store yesterday, it was only 107 degrees outside, and I could smell diesel fuel - prominently . Hopped in started her up and was met with the not so lovely check engine light, stopped at the auto store for a quick scan to get the P2267. IE. Fuel Pressure Regulator. I have started checking prices and the Blue Spring Kits are ranging in price from 14.99 (I'm sure it's Chinese ****) to 114.99 for a Sinister Diesel unit.

I have an upgraded FICM from FICM repair.com that is suppose to give me an addition 40HP and better milage. Anybody have any suggestions on Blue Spring kits such as; stick with an OEM, or Bullet Proof, Sinister, Parts Geek, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's etc. etc?

Of course I like less expensive but not at the cost of performance or having to stick my head back under the hood again. I did mention that it's hot as F... out this time of year in AZ and working on my vehicles is not what I like as a hobby.

Thanks for any thoughts you all may have.

gchkr
2004 F350 6.0 (73,375 miles)

 

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...-9t517-ag.html

 

So the stock 6.0 doesn't have a fuel pressure sensor so you're not going to get a code for low fuel pressure. All that the PCM can see is if the fuel pump has voltage, that's it. That P2267 code is appears to be for a water-in-fuel code.

A blue spring kit is a great idea, but you might have other issues with the HCFM, fuel pickup, etc. Definitely do some more trouble-shooting. Also, where is your fuel leaking? A bad regulator spring wouldn't cause that.

Jack (TooManyToys) has a great video explaining how the system works along with troubleshooting:

 

I must admit I didn’t look up what the code meant, my mistake.
Since I had recently replaced the FICM and I believe the PCM (I don’t recall but I think PCM, would need to check my records ) I doubted they were the issues and since it was a fuel smell and that was what the code indicated I figured probabaly. Again, my mistake for figuring.
One thing I keep getting is a prominant fuel smell, even prior to FICM and other part change, this goes back ever since I purchased the truck; 05/2024. I have never found a fuel leak and I keep looking as the smell is not consistant. I figured it was because of the Archoil additive at fill ups that added to the smell.
The check engine light went off and smell is gone since I posted.
I noticed sputter surges and slower throttle response while drive before the check light. Oil looks fine, black, and no indications of yellow on the DS, water level unchanged. Any thoughts now with the updated info?

 

Well I managed to limp the truck through the obnoxious heat, order a blue spring kit and installed this morning. The fuel smell is consistently inconsistent, I have popped the hood so many times looking for a leak I can't count. But this morning when I moved the truck from where I park it to the house popped the hood and found fuel on top of the block. After I replaced the Blue Spring, started the truck and let it idle, checked no leaks, revved to 2000 RMP for about ten seconds, let idle, no sputters idled fine, shut her off and walked around to wipe things down and close up. Problem, fuel all over the top of the block again. Not any around the injectors, the fuel filter or fittings. Looks like it's coming from a part to the left of the fuel filter and in front of the oil filter. It has a wiring connector on top of it. I can't find anything that shows this being part of the fuel system nor any part number that is easily visible. Can anyone tell me if this part has fuel going thru it, what the part is, or where fuel may be coming from if not this. I took a picture of it, but have no idea how to download it on this site. Since this is the first time I have ever seen fuel, and is not a small drop, I don't want to drive it, not into Car B Ques, especially if it would be mine.

 

The fuel path is pretty simple thru the filter. Supply/return from the tank and the 2 lines to each of the heads. Some of the connections are banjo with copper washers, others have O-rings.

 

FiveOJester,

Thanks for your quick reply. I was able to wrangle my neighbor to step on the throttle while I had my head under the hood. 2500 RPM's for about 15 seconds, no leaks, he went to idle and then shut the engine off. About 4 seconds later the fuel filter cap pissed a stream about 5 inches out for about 1 to 1.5 sec.

I pulled the cap, checked the O ring in great shape. The cap has a small factory notch in it right where the fuel came out of. Put the cap back on and tighten down, probably a bit too much, started it up again did the same test again and she pissed again, exactly the same. Any suggestions other than a bad O ring, seems that the fuel should bleed back into the tank not out of the fuel filter. I will be replacing the O ring as that is the easiest starting point, any suggestions on any thing else to look at?

Thank you.

 

The cap isn't cracked is it?

 

TMTs video may be the one that shows how to hotwire the fuel pump. Forscan will also run the pump. Leaving it on may help in trying to find the leak without having the cooling fan blowing air all around

Nevermind didn't see the latest posts

 

Nope, checked it when I checked the O ring. But she will be getting a new cap soon. Looking to order a metal one with a fitting so I can check pressure. Any suggestions on a manufacturer? I have read that some of them don't come with the bleeder hole in the cap like the OEM's have.

 

Just an update. New metal cap, same O ring installed. Love that the new cap takes the same size sockett as the oil filter cap. After install ran the engine test the same as prior and OMG no pissing fuel! Cleaned the engine and have put on about 25 miles and have not had any sputtering or leaks. Still smell diesel and engine cleaner but she needs more road time to verify everything is good. She is running better and I can only hope my mileage improves as the computer adjust to the changes. Anybody getting better than 12 mpg city and 13.25 highway, running empty?

 

From when she was new. Towing a 9,000lb trailer in the snow was the worst.

 

(To Many Toys)
Okay, so you were going down hill with a 50 MPH tail wind, right?

This truck hasn't even sniffed close to 15! The best milage I have ever gotten was just under 14 and that was coming home from the mountains (7500' to 1200' elevation drop) and not passing everyone as the war dept. hated driving on the windy roads so I had to throttle back. I know gear ratio can have an impact but I think this truck has 350ish rear end and it has the 5spd auto, not low gears.

I'll be heading up the mountain in two weeks to help a friend with his elk hunt, all highway up and back with a bit of backwoods to the hunt area. No trailer just a full bed, on a 350 it will be basically an empty haul, I'll hope my milage jumps. If not any recommendations. I plan on a tuner as soon as the budget allows, probably first of the year.

Thanks for your info.

 

In a 20-mile run to where I used to work, or 40 miles down to my farm, I have one hill. That's negated on the drive home. If you are at the NJ Shore, you are a flatlander. Basically, it's all highway driving. Winter takes its toll.

It gets worse (for you) when I later tried some fuel-saving techniques after 13,500 miles, like lowering my top speed and going back to the stock tires from the BFG 285s.