Regulated Return Systems
Regulated Return Systems
So I have decided on new Alliant AC 160/0 injectors. My next question is fuel system regulated returns. I have looked at both the Frx and Sinister Diesel Kits. Both seem to do the same thing w/ some differences:
1. Sinister Diesel has fine tune capability for fuel pressure while Frx has three ranges (springs). Which spring is normally used?
2. Sinister Diesel has under hood fuel pressure gage for adjustments
3. Sinister Diesel removes check valves and uses all new fuel lines
4. Big difference in cost due quantity of material in each kit
Any thoughts or experience with either of these kits would be appreciated.
Jim
1. Sinister Diesel has fine tune capability for fuel pressure while Frx has three ranges (springs). Which spring is normally used?
2. Sinister Diesel has under hood fuel pressure gage for adjustments
3. Sinister Diesel removes check valves and uses all new fuel lines
4. Big difference in cost due quantity of material in each kit
Any thoughts or experience with either of these kits would be appreciated.
Jim
doesn't the r.r.s. remove the fuelbowl? If so, you gotta take that into account. need to fit a filter somewhere down below. if that aint a concern, you "could" build the r.r.s for WAAYYY less then whats offered. its just a regulator and 2-hoses. Remove the cv's yourself..(no biggie), since your tossing the fuel hardlines, out anyway. Your "inlet" from pump is "diverted" to 2-fuel ports on heads. I'd feed the 2-rear ports. Then the 2-front ports feed the regulator. Then the "outlet" on regulator feeds the "return" oem line....done. The fittings on heads are 1/8npt. i wanna say the fuel "inlet" is 5/16. Use the adaptor off the fuel bowl to connect to the fuel "inlet' then use JIC fitting to "T" it off..(swivel adaptor for ease of usage).
I use RR Gen2 FRX. The springs are color coded for the amount of fuel pressure you need. I run my fuel pressure at around 65psi. One note, if you go with this setup pay attention to the spring on the install. There is a small cap that holds the spring that has a slight "lip" in it that the spring can get hung up on and give you false pressure readings. Mine initially registered 100psi so I took off the cap and noticed the spring was caught on the inside lip of the cap. Readjusted the spring and it brought it back to 65psi. I have had my FRX in for a little over two years now with no issues so far. I run an ISSPRO gauge inside the cab to monitor fuel pressure
I have the Sinister, ITP, there's another name on it that eludes me right now....Very nice kit, pricy, but well made. You have two choices, keep your filter bowl, which I did and now regret or buy the kit for the bowl delete. Eventually, I'm going to delete the stock filter bowl.
I have the Sinister, ITP, there's another name on it that eludes me right now....Very nice kit, pricy, but well made. You have two choices, keep your filter bowl, which I did and now regret or buy the kit for the bowl delete. Eventually, I'm going to delete the stock filter bowl.
frx is cheaper and easier to install and will give you every benefit of the full regulated return. with the injectors you've chosen you will not require bigger lines or a bigger pump so id just go with the frx.
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[QUOTE=sledhead999;14013269]Your not deleting the filtering, just the stock bowl for an inline cartridge/filter setup in its place. Most have a water drain mounted next to it also.
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Yup! What he said.
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Yup! What he said.
But what's the advantage of not having the stock filter? I mean, what do you gain by removing it?
For me, its more convienence than anything else. Valley a little less crowded, no more leaks from that drain valve, etc...
I have the ITP system. No problems over 5-6, heck maybe more, years. I will say though, the FP gauge on the regulator did start to loose its dampening fluid here recently. I kept the factory filter bowl.
I assembled my regulated return DIY fashion, seems like I spent $280 neighborhood back in the day and a whole weekend installing it. The biggest expense was the regulator at around $100. There used to be a lot of debate as to the necessity of a diesel rated regulator, I can put that one to rest, my gasoline rated Aeromotive regulator still functions fine after 8 years. I just started replacing flex lines two weeks ago because I figured it was time.
I assembled my regulated return DIY fashion, seems like I spent $280 neighborhood back in the day and a whole weekend installing it. The biggest expense was the regulator at around $100. There used to be a lot of debate as to the necessity of a diesel rated regulator, I can put that one to rest, my gasoline rated Aeromotive regulator still functions fine after 8 years. I just started replacing flex lines two weeks ago because I figured it was time.
I did.
For free.
I put a 6.0 transmission cooler on my F350, then put my stock 7.3 transmission cooler on my Bronco, and then used the Bronco's transmission cooler as a fuel cooler on my F350.
It's in the circle, the circle of life.
For free.
I put a 6.0 transmission cooler on my F350, then put my stock 7.3 transmission cooler on my Bronco, and then used the Bronco's transmission cooler as a fuel cooler on my F350.
It's in the circle, the circle of life.
I've been trying to decide on what type of reg return to put in the Excursion as well. I thought about the fuel bowl delete setup but now I believe I will keep the stock fuel bowl & the heater since neither stage 1.5's (160/30 single shots) or 238/80 hybrids will cause me to remove it.











