So my apologies if this issue has been discussed prior, I'm at a loss here, so the other day I was driving down the road and truck shutdown, no warning at all. The first thing did was to pull my ForScan app to find out what the issue was for the crank no start, after pulling the graph it showed no building pressure high pressure only 165 PSI, IPR at 85%, pushed the truck let it sit for 10 minutes and it cranks and starts right away, pulled codes and it shows code for Fan P0480, I remember reading somewhere about that sometimes a fan can cause short and make PCM malfunction, disconnected the fan and drove home witbout any issues, did some more reading and tested the fan clutch following procedure the Ford testing procedure by increasing engine RPM to 2500 with the fan at 0% fan speed 600ish, then fan at 100% speed 3200 at same RPM, so the fan seems to operate correctly after test, fan running at proper speed etc. So fan clutch seems to not be the issue and within spec, my first thought was that it only does this when warm, and after coolant temp is about <182F it seems to run fine so I assume fan is good. Today same thing happened died on the side of the road, same measures low pressure in the ICP, but after few minutes started, so i decided to play with the IPR percentages and it seems to change the sound of the Injectors as i make adjustments, so that tells me the IPR is good, and not stock open since when I adjust the values there's definitely a perceived change in the injector sound. When I played with these it almost seems like a similar circumstance as when it dies while driving, shuts down like like an IPR issue, ¹pulled codes again today and I have, the following codes, P0480, P2285, P2617, and P2623 I hate throwing parts at things without the proper troubleshooting of things, all the codes are ICP related some due to the lack of pressure and one is for an open circuit on the ICP sensor. The new development was P2617, for the CKP sensor, i crawled under the truck and it seems to have oil around the plug, could that cause the intermittent issue, the oring of this might be leaking oil on the connector and causing a short, I haven't spend much time searching for chafed wires yet but I wanted to get the guru's experience and expertise on this before I go crazy, can a IPR develop a lack of performance as the temperature increases, it seems to be a temperature raleted issue as it only happens after a drive, when engine is warm, oil deltas are within 2-5 degrees at around 185, so it doesn't seem like a warm oil leak on the dummy plugs based on comments that wouldn't cause the engine to just die is mostly a crank no start when warm, and as the idle temperature, and starting temperature are the same, maybe few degree differenc, seems like an electrical issue, again my apologies for the long post. I'm posting the graph data when idle after restart for reference, I haven't been able to capture any data of the issue or to know exactly what happened when it shuts down.

 

You should watch the ICP sensor pressure and volts as you change the commanded IPR percent duty cycle. That will avoid the difficulty of assessing things only by sound.

An ICP connector short can definitely cause an engine to stall. This is common. A wiring problem is also common. Just be aware that when/if you try to start with the ICP sensor unplugged, you will get a P2285.

The IPR electronics have been known to cause a shutdown when they get hot. Not particularly common, but not rare either. It is more common for the wiring to the IPR to have a short. It is hot around the turbo! P2623 seems to point to a wiring or electronics problem with the IPR.

P2623: Open/grounded IPR circuit. Stuck IPR. Loose connection. Shorted out IPR. Pull back insulation on the connector wiring to inspect.
This can cause a no-start (typically it will act up when hot).

FYI:
P2617: CMP - poor connection or electrical noise: Check CMP+/- or CKP+/- and CKPO or CMPO circuits. Can be generated by excessive cranks or after a stall event.

I would focus your investigation on the IPR wiring first. I don't like the "parts changer" approach, but if the IPR wiring is CONFIRMED to be ok, then the code suggest you need a new OEM IPR valve.

 

For some reason I thought the P2623 was for the ICP Sensor unplugged, just like the P2285, that makes so much more sense now, because when it shuts down it behaves the same as when I command the IPR at 15%, I will take it apart and re-post what my findings are, I'm guessing is some wiring issues in that area, too hot to work on in when the engine is warm

 

Definitely could be the wiring, but the valve electronics have also been known to fail.

Probably that is the third most common electronic failure, the two more common ones are the early ICP sensor, and the FICM. The EGR valve and the EBP sensor are up there also.

 

Please keep this thread updated and post the solution when it is fixed. Much appreciated.

 

Quick question for the group, where are you guys getting the best prices on the IPR valves, I want to order a new one when I do this work, also do you know if there's a difference between the CM5054 (03) and the CM5126 (05) besides the upgraded screen can these be interchanged?, I have an 03 that has been sitting on my shelf for a while now, and It would be nice to use it for testing purposes, I haven't done any work on this yet I just like to be prepared with parts, prior to take crap apart

 

Ford has stated that the later ('05) IPR is backwards compatible for 03 or 04.

I shop primarily AutoNation White Bear Lake (internet sales). Occasionally FordParts.com (specifying one of several local dealerships as the pick up point) has given me a lower cost due to no shipping cost.

CM-5054 : 3C3Z-9C968-AA
CM-5126 : 5C3Z-9C968-CA

 

So I figured I give everyone an update on these, finally got to order an IPR from ford, and removed the IPR, didn't find debris on it, but the screen was ripped, don't know if it rupture before or after I pulled it from the HPOP, since it was stock there when I removed the IPR, I replaced the screen when I rebuild the engine 5k miles ago.
I also decided to bench test both IPR valves, the one on my shelf and the one that was on the truck both showed 5.5 Ohms and they both passed the actuation test with shop air, I didn't have an issue with the truck not starting cold, would it be posible that the coil in the solenoid suffers from heat performance degradation.
I also inspected the wires to the IPR, and I don't see any chafing on them.
I've ordered an new Motorcraft IPR already but won't be here till Tuesday, I think I'm just going to replace it. For piece of mind even though both IPR valves seem to be working at least on the bench.
Also can any of you guys confirm correct ohms for these.
Also, I got another IPR screen but it seems to be a bit less quality that what I had and the mesh size seems smaller

 

Has any of you guys have any experience IPR screen from Standard Ignition at O'Reilly it seems to be a heavier duty unit in comparison to what I have is it worth the $74? It's almost like a perforated plate instead of a woven mesh, I'm still waiting for the Motorcraft IPR to show up so I've been doing a lot of reading

 

So I decided to update this thread, finally got the new IPR Tuesday and installed last night, also decided to replace the wiring to the IPR I couldn't see any issue with the wiring all the way back to the main harness but I figure I'm there, after I cut the connector wiring and put it on the bench I was able to see thisnlittle nick on the wiring right at the connector, so just figure I let the group know that just because something looks good doesn't mean it is, this makes me think that the IPR wasn't the problem as all my testing was good, but I put a new one for the piece of mind, thank you bismic for help, one thing I did notice is that my IP% percentage went down from 27% at idle to about 25.5% so that would be the spring pressure difference between the new and old one also just FYI the new IPR tested at the same Ohms at 5.4

 

I was just wanting to know if replacing the IPR and connector fixed your problem?

 

Yes I haven't had any issues shutting down while hot, truck is at 14k miles since engine rebuilt with no other issues