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EGR is not used during idle or wide open throttle.
It is used every where else, cruise. It does give you better mpg,.
It has nothing to do with smog.
No, you can leave that open, you just want to block off the intake from sucking air(vacuum leak).
You could use a block off plate at the manifold, then you could keep the valve tucked away plugged in somewhere else.
EGR is not used during idle or wide open throttle.
It is used every where else, cruise. It does give you better mpg,.
It has nothing to do with smog.
No, you can leave that open, you just want to block off the intake from sucking air(vacuum leak).
You could use a block off plate at the manifold, then you could keep the valve tucked away plugged in somewhere else.
Quack!
Where did you come up with 'EGR is nothing to do with smog"
EGR was mandated by the EPA in 1977 to combat NOx
By definition NOx "is" photochemical smog
*Burning spent fuel lowers combustion temperatures and lessens the formation of NOx
A little school goes a long ways wwhite
I have been an I/M inspector since 1984 and tons of school to obtain a Ford master cert
You don't need any of that but hell...
Quack!
Where did you come up with 'EGR is nothing to do with smog"
EGR was mandated by the EPA in 1977 to combat NOx
By definition NOx "is" photochemical smog
*Burning spent fuel lowers combustion temperatures and lessens the formation of NOx
A little school goes a long ways wwhite
I have been an I/M inspector since 1984 and tons of school to obtain a Ford master cert
You don't need any of that but hell...
Not all of us are Ford Masters like you.
To the generalist Ford truck owner who work on their truck at home, like 99.9999% of everyone else, do not know all the specifics with whatever EPA is.
So, my mistake, what I should have said instead of SMOG, is THERMACTOR, and been more specific with saying that the Thermactor Air Pump is not directly related to the EGR system as they are two different systems.
And you might as well finish off that the Thermactor Air System helps reduce Carbon Dioxide(CO) and HydroCarbons(HC). The EGR helps reduce Nitrgen Oxides(NO).
Summary: Both systems are good for the air we breathe. Mechanically they have nothing to do with each other.
Iv relocated my egr diaphragm and sensor and plugged the back of the egr diaphragm with some gasket maker and an aluminum can. I had to extend the wire for the egr sensor. I just now got my upper intake back on and I’m about to put my vacuum lines on but I have two lines that have nowhere to go. They went to these diaphragms that are no longer on the engine. The vacuum lines that went to these are the ones in blue tape. What should I do with them?
Do I remove the vacuum lines attached to tad and tab solenoids?
I did not. I kept the vacuum lines attached to the vacuum supply side and to the TAB and TAD “in” port. Then I put a vacuum cap on the other port of the solenoid
Originally Posted by Nmaykdm
Maybe I should’ve started a new thread for this
Yes, I answered the question but you could have easily found the answers yourself by reading the air injection system delete threads. That is what I did before I put GT40 heads on the 302. It seems like you didn’t do any research before starting this project.
I did not. I kept the vacuum lines attached to the vacuum supply side and to the TAB and TAD “in” port. Then I put a vacuum cap on the other port of the solenoid
Yes, I answered the question but you could have easily found the answers yourself by reading the air injection system delete threads. That is what I did before I put GT40 heads on the 302. It seems like you didn’t do any research before starting this project.
Iv done a lot of research but I can’t get a straight answer
Iv done a lot of research but I can’t get a straight answer
I found the answer by reading those delete threads and provided you with an explanation of what I did on my truck.
Originally Posted by Scndsin
Use your vac diagram & delete everything that is fed from the vac reservoir except the HVAC & EGR solenoid.
Leave the TAB/TAD solenoids electrically connected.
Your MAP, vac reservoir & fuel press regulator stay on the manifold vac tree.
I found it was easier to keep the factory molded nylon hoses and cap off the output from the TAB/TAD solenoids than running new hoses for the EGR. I ran it that way for approx four years without setting any fault codes. Whatever works best for you.
Thanks for the help everyone. I just took the truck for test drive and it didnt throw any codes and ran really well. I took it easy tho. I’ll do some more test driving soon
I found the answer by reading those delete threads and provided you with an explanation of what I did on my truck. 
