Truck won’t start
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Truck won’t start
I just finished rebuilding the top end on my 95 351w f150 and it won’t start. I have spark, I have fuel pressure. I set my tps to .976v.
Battery feels strong. Iv got it hooked up to my wife’s car while starting. Sounds good when turning over, nothing out of the ordinary is apparent. Exhaust pipes smell like gas. Any advice?
I checked for spark by taking the number one plug out and putting it in the plug wire and holding it against the valve cover. It had a strong spark.
I don’t know my exact fuel pressure but it squirts out of the valve stem on the fuel rail pretty good. I don’t have a pressure gauge but I can get one. Like I said above the exhaust smells like gas. I assume I’m flooding it
Battery feels strong. Iv got it hooked up to my wife’s car while starting. Sounds good when turning over, nothing out of the ordinary is apparent. Exhaust pipes smell like gas. Any advice?
I checked for spark by taking the number one plug out and putting it in the plug wire and holding it against the valve cover. It had a strong spark.
I don’t know my exact fuel pressure but it squirts out of the valve stem on the fuel rail pretty good. I don’t have a pressure gauge but I can get one. Like I said above the exhaust smells like gas. I assume I’m flooding it
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
When I try to start it with wide open throttle, it back fires just a tiny bit through the air intake.
I have not gotten a chance to set my timing yet. I was hoping to do that when the truck started. I did however put my engine at top dead center before pulling the distributor out and I also put a chisel mark on the bottom of the distributor to know exactly where to put it back once the engine was back on TDC.
I have not gotten a chance to set my timing yet. I was hoping to do that when the truck started. I did however put my engine at top dead center before pulling the distributor out and I also put a chisel mark on the bottom of the distributor to know exactly where to put it back once the engine was back on TDC.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,245
Likes: 302
From: Kenner,La.
Will not start
Make sure that the “0” mark on the balancer lines up with the tab on the timing cover when the compression stroke is @TDC.
Another trick is to remove the plugs, put the wires on them and ground them. Spin the engine with the timing light and set the timing, be sure that the spout connector is disconnected.
Another trick is to remove the plugs, put the wires on them and ground them. Spin the engine with the timing light and set the timing, be sure that the spout connector is disconnected.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
I have the truck running pretty good now
I got engine at TDC and took the cap off and it wasn’t pointing at 1. It is now and it’s running really well. Turned the distributor a bit while running till I felt like it was running its best and tightened it down. I just let it run on and off for about an hour. Sounds great, motor shakes little to none while running. No issues. No overheating, no check engine light, all fluid levels are good. I’m going to run some errand rq then I’m gonna test drive it when I get back.
I can’t get the truck to idle under 1000,900rpms.
I’m shooting for about 800 but not only that, if I try to hold my engine at 1500rpms for example, the rpms kind of bounce just a wee bit. Maybe I have an air leak somewhere?
I got engine at TDC and took the cap off and it wasn’t pointing at 1. It is now and it’s running really well. Turned the distributor a bit while running till I felt like it was running its best and tightened it down. I just let it run on and off for about an hour. Sounds great, motor shakes little to none while running. No issues. No overheating, no check engine light, all fluid levels are good. I’m going to run some errand rq then I’m gonna test drive it when I get back.
I can’t get the truck to idle under 1000,900rpms.
I’m shooting for about 800 but not only that, if I try to hold my engine at 1500rpms for example, the rpms kind of bounce just a wee bit. Maybe I have an air leak somewhere?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
The upper intake is so hot, I can barely touch it. Is this normal? My engine doesn’t show that I’m over heating. What’s everyone’s opinion on bypassing the coolant lines to the throttle body? I feel like I need to make my engine bay colder somehow
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Hotshot
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Turned the distributor a bit while running till I felt like it was running its best and tightened it down. I just let it run on and off for about an hour. Sounds great, motor shakes little to none while running. No issues. No overheating, no check engine light, all fluid levels are good. I’m going to run some errand rq then I’m gonna test drive it when I get back.
I can’t get the truck to idle under 1000,900rpms.
I’m shooting for about 800 but not only that, if I try to hold my engine at 1500rpms for example, the rpms kind of bounce just a wee bit. Maybe I have an air leak somewhere?
I can’t get the truck to idle under 1000,900rpms.
I’m shooting for about 800 but not only that, if I try to hold my engine at 1500rpms for example, the rpms kind of bounce just a wee bit. Maybe I have an air leak somewhere?
The engine should not shake at all. All you did was replace the heads and rocker arms, correct?
Maybe but I’ve never had a reason do that. You are going to get answers on both sides of that argument. I keep the coolant hoses connected.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Did I miss the part where you disconnected the SPOUT and set the timing to 10° BTDC with a timing light? Does the idle drop if you disconnect the IAC?
The engine should not shake at all. All you did was replace the heads and rocker arms, correct?
Maybe but I’ve never had a reason do that. You are going to get answers on both sides of that argument. I keep the coolant hoses connected.
The engine should not shake at all. All you did was replace the heads and rocker arms, correct?
Maybe but I’ve never had a reason do that. You are going to get answers on both sides of that argument. I keep the coolant hoses connected.
I replaced my heads, rockers, headers, valve covers, distributor, wires, plugs, coil, throttle body, throttle cable, fuel injectors, and removed smog and egr
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