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Tuning for codes?

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Old Aug 4, 2025 | 10:11 PM
  #16  
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If getting a tuner can solve my check engine light problem and clean up my engine bay by getting rid of the egr and the three solenoids by the coil, I’m really liking this option. Can someone teach me a few things about tuning?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2025 | 11:27 PM
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Yes. Until I went with an aftermarket tuner, I modified solenoid's bracket & placed on firewall by lengthened harness.

I left the EGR intact completely until then.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2025 | 11:56 PM
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From: Branson West, MO
Originally Posted by Scndsin
Yes. Until I went with an aftermarket tuner, I modified solenoid's bracket & placed on firewall by lengthened harness.

I left the EGR intact completely until then.
what aftermarket tuner did you use? This really sounds like an easy solution that keeps my engine simplified without any codes.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 12:33 AM
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[QUOTE=
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 08:13 AM
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I went with an aftermarket tune-able ECU. About $1400.

Sorry if I mislead.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 09:31 AM
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I certainly can be wrong and I hope someone will correct me. If you are using a tuner, there must be hardware that attaches to the EEC-IV ECU. Tweecer and QuarterHorse are two that seem to be the most popular. Both of these systems are old and the market is drying up. But then again, these trucks are dying too.

I have a Tweecer and I have no idea what I am doing. Some of the tuning is really basic. Do you want EGR off? There is a box for that. Air Injection? Yup, a box for that. Check engine light bulb? Sure, you can disable that too. When you want to change the ignition timing or fuel delivery, it becomes much more difficult. Difficult is probably not the right term, but when you have no clue what you are doing, even changing a tire is difficult.

If you are the type of person that likes their hand held when you are in trouble, tuning is not for you. I do believe you can pay someone to do the tuning for you, but you still need to install the hardware at the back of the ECU.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Butcher
I certainly can be wrong and I hope someone will correct me. If you are using a tuner, there must be hardware that attaches to the EEC-IV ECU. Tweecer and QuarterHorse are two that seem to be the most popular. Both of these systems are old and the market is drying up..
Moates QuarterHorse is in business again this year. They stopped for a bit, but are in full swing again now. Cheapest option, and over at efidynotuing.com is 100% fully active, lots of DIY help there, also paid options.

The only problem with Tweecer is that the tunes are not that reliable and not updated, from my experience from comparing SpeedDensity(SD) tunes vs stock.

With the box/catch/strategy code on the EEC-IV SD-4x systems, I have 99% of all parameters broken out.
What I find cool about the SD4x hardware, is that the hardware is identical on all E4OD systems, even between the 6 and 8 cylinder ones as they are bank fire, not sequential.

I find it relatively easy to do basic tuning, and it is super easy turning TAB/TAD on/off.

The only problem with a piggy back chip, is that it can set a memory code error, due to the chip, but does not set the check engine light on.

 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 07:04 PM
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After thinking about it all day, I think I want to try and move my egr diaphragm to the fire wall, extend the harness wire for the sensor so the sensor wire will reach the fire wall and plug into the egr sensor. Then I will put the vacuum line on egr diaphragm nipple and put the vacuum lines on the TAD, TAB, and other solenoid in front of the coil. Then I will plug the wires into solenoids by the coil and call it done?

someone please correct me if Iv got something wrong here.

I definitely don’t want to spend $1400 on a custom ecu
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 07:09 PM
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From: Branson West, MO
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Leave the TAB,TAD and EGR solenoids plugged into the computer harness. I kept the EGR connected to vacuum so the sensor will move and then you can block the flow with a piece of aluminum can.
I over looked this last part about blocking the hole with a can. By this do you mean the hole at the bottom of the diaphragm? Can you give me more detail? I haven’t taken my diaphragm apart yet so I’m not sure exactly where it comes apart from. I assume the pipe comes off and I’ll have to plug it there?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 07:34 PM
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Between the EGR valve and the manifold.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2025 | 07:45 PM
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From: Branson West, MO
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Between the EGR valve and the manifold.
This hole?
This hole?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 02:48 AM
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Yes. What is your reason for deleting the EGR?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Yes. What is your reason for deleting the EGR?
I started the egr delete because I wanted to be able to maintenance the passenger side of my engine without all the egr tubes in my way, have a cleaner looking engine bay, the pipe going down the catalytic converter was cut off and plugged when my exhaust job was done some years ago. Then when I put gt40 heads on, I didn’t buy the gt40 heads with a hole in the back for the crossover tube between the two heads. It’s been about a six month project so far, working on weekends and free time and waiting on parts to come in the mail. I think my engine bay has never looked better. It actually started when I had to change out my lifters. I figured since I was already that far down into the engine, it was a good time to clean up the engine bay as much as possible.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 05:27 AM
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From: Branson West, MO

 
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Old Aug 6, 2025 | 05:32 AM
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From: Branson West, MO
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Between the EGR valve and the manifold.
Originally Posted by Nmaykdm
This hole?
This hole?
Do I have to plug the hole on bottom as well?
 
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