Tuning for codes?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Tuning for codes?
I’m rebuilding the top end on my 1995 f150 351w 2wd and I’m almost finished with everything. Iv smog deleted my engine so now I’m at the point where I need to make the ECM think that never happened. I purchased a egr delete plug and I was going to buy a TAB and TAD delete plug ins but they are out of stock. So I was next going to plug in some 75 ohm resistors into these plug ins. But now I’m wondering, can I just have all that taken care of by tuning? Is that something I can learn to do myself?
There is a lot of controversy over if the resistors will work or not so with tuning I’d like to get a for sure check engine light fix. Maybe I’ll be able to tune other things for the better? Any advice?
There is a lot of controversy over if the resistors will work or not so with tuning I’d like to get a for sure check engine light fix. Maybe I’ll be able to tune other things for the better? Any advice?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
I don’t know what to do with the three solenoids attached the coil bracket. I’d like to delete them without having a check engine light on if possible.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,268
Likes: 2,563
From: Near Salt Lake City
There is more than one way to skin a cat
A 78 Monte Carlo or Zephyr had no holes in the heads either
Keep the cats, keep the air supply to them (if you can)
We're all hot rodders at heart
You can do things like run dual cats and no mufflers
You do not need much EGR to hack the mission of no NOx production
Better to leave the EGR completely intact and just change the orifice size
The washers Ford used to send to make the EGR flow rate match the original valve.. you could throw those out and just drill a smaller hole in a slug or a penny
Ford puts the air "all over" making the 3 way cat work, you don't need any of that crap, I agree
Just run an air pump and throw it in at the manifolds, that is sufficient
It's my daily drivers I keep the I/M intact on
If going racing, all bets are off
A 78 Monte Carlo or Zephyr had no holes in the heads either
Keep the cats, keep the air supply to them (if you can)
We're all hot rodders at heart
You can do things like run dual cats and no mufflers
You do not need much EGR to hack the mission of no NOx production
Better to leave the EGR completely intact and just change the orifice size
The washers Ford used to send to make the EGR flow rate match the original valve.. you could throw those out and just drill a smaller hole in a slug or a penny
Ford puts the air "all over" making the 3 way cat work, you don't need any of that crap, I agree
Just run an air pump and throw it in at the manifolds, that is sufficient
It's my daily drivers I keep the I/M intact on
If going racing, all bets are off
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,317
Likes: 1,298
From: Central Mississippi
You don't have to have the EGR pipe. Just the sensor plugged in & the vac line to the EGR diaphragm + solenoid.
The ECU needs to see the diaphragm MOVE.
The ECU needs to see the diaphragm MOVE.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Don't waste your money on those delete plugs they don't work. The TAB & TAD solenoids don't need "foolin" anyway, some cades may be set with them deleted but they are low priority and won't trigger a check engine light. The EGR is different however, there are several codes that can be set and all of them will trigger a check engine, the only 2 ways to prevent that are with a tuner or by connecting the valve and letting it go through the motions. But if you do that the port in the upper intake must be plugged.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 999
My 95 F250 has CA emissions/MAF sensor. The EGR is not like the standard EGR that was used on the Federal trucks. There was nothing I could do to delete the EGR without the light coming on.
I have a Tweecer now. Although I agree that you should not tamper with the emissions but if you are destined to do it anyway, plugging it off is not going to do much of anything. Maybe make things worse. From my understanding, with EGR on, the ignition timing is more advanced. This may cause a knock issue. Backing the timing off may fix that, but all the timing would be backed off.....not good.
With a tuner, you can just tell the EEC-IV that you do not have EGR and therefore everything that happens when the EGR is on, will not.
I have a Tweecer now. Although I agree that you should not tamper with the emissions but if you are destined to do it anyway, plugging it off is not going to do much of anything. Maybe make things worse. From my understanding, with EGR on, the ignition timing is more advanced. This may cause a knock issue. Backing the timing off may fix that, but all the timing would be backed off.....not good.
With a tuner, you can just tell the EEC-IV that you do not have EGR and therefore everything that happens when the EGR is on, will not.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
There is more than one way to skin a cat
A 78 Monte Carlo or Zephyr had no holes in the heads either
Keep the cats, keep the air supply to them (if you can)
We're all hot rodders at heart
You can do things like run dual cats and no mufflers
You do not need much EGR to hack the mission of no NOx production
Better to leave the EGR completely intact and just change the orifice size
The washers Ford used to send to make the EGR flow rate match the original valve.. you could throw those out and just drill a smaller hole in a slug or a penny
Ford puts the air "all over" making the 3 way cat work, you don't need any of that crap, I agree
Just run an air pump and throw it in at the manifolds, that is sufficient
It's my daily drivers I keep the I/M intact on
If going racing, all bets are off
A 78 Monte Carlo or Zephyr had no holes in the heads either
Keep the cats, keep the air supply to them (if you can)
We're all hot rodders at heart
You can do things like run dual cats and no mufflers
You do not need much EGR to hack the mission of no NOx production
Better to leave the EGR completely intact and just change the orifice size
The washers Ford used to send to make the EGR flow rate match the original valve.. you could throw those out and just drill a smaller hole in a slug or a penny
Ford puts the air "all over" making the 3 way cat work, you don't need any of that crap, I agree
Just run an air pump and throw it in at the manifolds, that is sufficient
It's my daily drivers I keep the I/M intact on
If going racing, all bets are off
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
can you draw this for me? I’m not to familiar with what is what.
my understand is that, the egr sensor is on the egr tower. The TAD and TAB solenoids are the ones beside the coil, I don’t know which is which. There is one more solenoid in front of the coil and I don’t know what that is for.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
Don't waste your money on those delete plugs they don't work. The TAB & TAD solenoids don't need "foolin" anyway, some cades may be set with them deleted but they are low priority and won't trigger a check engine light. The EGR is different however, there are several codes that can be set and all of them will trigger a check engine, the only 2 ways to prevent that are with a tuner or by connecting the valve and letting it go through the motions. But if you do that the port in the upper intake must be plugged.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
what exactly is the egr diaphragm and which solenoid is the egr solenoid?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 12,317
Likes: 1,298
From: Central Mississippi
The diaphragm is inside the saucer shaped housing the sensor screws into.
it has a vac supply nipple you leave connected.
Vac applied by computer, vac makes the diaphragm move up & down actuating sensor.
Computer happy.
Plug the exhaust manifold attachment, plug the intake manifold port
it has a vac supply nipple you leave connected.
Vac applied by computer, vac makes the diaphragm move up & down actuating sensor.
Computer happy.
Plug the exhaust manifold attachment, plug the intake manifold port
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 226
Likes: 11
From: Branson West, MO
The diaphragm is inside the saucer shaped housing the sensor screws into.
it has a vac supply nipple you leave connected.
Vac applied by computer, vac makes the diaphragm move up & down actuating sensor.
Computer happy.
Plug the exhaust manifold attachment, plug the intake manifold port
it has a vac supply nipple you leave connected.
Vac applied by computer, vac makes the diaphragm move up & down actuating sensor.
Computer happy.
Plug the exhaust manifold attachment, plug the intake manifold port
The saucer diaphragm is really an eye sore for me and there really is no good way to hide it unless I extend the wire harness wire.
does all this sound like I have a good understanding?
all that being said, do I leave the three solenoids by coil hooked up like normal?