When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Pulled my carb off my 1980 F700 for a rebuild. Never had a problem getting the carb kit from my local green parts store, so I started disassembly and put parts in the sonic cleaner, then off to the parts store.
Well - they didn't have the kit. They also couldn't order it.
I mention all of this to explain how I got myself into this mess. ADHD and carbs apparently is a bad combo. Start taking things apart in the interest of thoroughness, have a delay in getting parts and all of a sudden, you can't remember exactly how it goes back together.
Here's my issue- I can't seem to get the linkage to work right, and when I put the governor together it holds the primaries wide open. Y'all have no idea how hard it is to ask for help right now, 30+ years under various hoods and hundreds of carbs rebuilt over the years...for the life of me I can't figure out what I did wrong.
So, with my tail between my legs and a defeated look upon my face....I submit these pictures to see if any of you good looking, financially stable, brilliant minds can see the glaring, obvious error I have made. The carb is a 4180c, Holley made for Motorcraft. It's Ford P/N is D9TE-9510-EBA and it's List Number is 9089. It sits atop the 370 in my 1980 F700.
Governor installed. Primaries wide open. I can hold it closed against the governor spring.
I'll try to work at this more tomorrow night. So much . . .
The parts circled are for another person I'd prepped this image for; it shows the basics governor parts for the electronic governor for 1979, and I assume 1980 is similar.
Your governor doesn't work the way you probably think it does -- not the way other governors that I've worked with operate, either, and I've worked with, conservatively, hundreds of them. From memory, the primary shaft has a spring that opens the primaries, ref. 9980. The one on the adjustable filister head screw post in your pic. The accel pedal link return spring actually closes them against that spring, after the carb is installed. So, you press on the accel, that overcomes the external extension spring and everything looks as if your foot opened the primaries, but it just allowed that short governor spring to do that.
The governor vacuum diaphragm and linkage pulls the primary shaft shut against that spring, too. Pushing the accel pedal only allows all this to happen; take your foot off, and the pedal return spring(s) shut the primaries because they overcome that 9980.
IOW, I think what you see is normal. Put your hand on the bellcrank where the accel linkage connects and see if light-ish pressuse closes the primaries. Yes? Yeah, you've got it right.
Carb kit IS available.
I can probably get a better exploded view from the MPC as well . . . but not tonight.
Yeah, you have the electronic governor. NBD, what I wrote above is the same, except the mechanism the limits how far open the throttle moves is that motor on the front, in place of the earlier diaphragm they used (yeah, in '78 the 4V had two big diaphragms: one for the secondaries, one for the governor).
Unlike other governors I've worked with, this one doesn't pull the linkage open, with a spring between your foot and the primaries. No, your foot only allows that 9980 spring to pull the primaries open.
Damnedest thing when I first saw it on mine last year. And the older-than-yours vacuum governor, modulated through the distributor!, is whole 'nuther Rube Goldberg arrangement that looks positively Germanic to me. But you get the electric motor and a module somewhere instead.
Yeah, you have the electronic governor. NBD, what I wrote above is the same, except the mechanism the limits how far open the throttle moves is that motor on the front, in place of the earlier diaphragm they used (yeah, in '78 the 4V had two big diaphragms: one for the secondaries, one for the governor).
Unlike other governors I've worked with, thisone doesn't pull the linkage open, with a spring between your foot and the primaries. No, your foot only allows that 9980 spring to pull the primaries open.
Damnedest thing when I first saw it on mine last year. And the older-than-yours vacuum governor, modulated through the distributor!, is whole 'nuther Rube Goldberg arrangement that looks positively Germanic to me. But you get the electric motor and a module somewhere instead.
So, essentially it's normal ops. Got it. That being said, do you or anyone here have this carb that could take a picture of the linkage on the base plate? In one of the pics above, I show the back side of the linkage (inside the little box) and the little cam that's supposed to engage the primary blades/shaft. As you can see, I released the locking tabs and disassembled it to inspect the shaft (there's a lot of play, or so I thought but it's fine) and now the way that makes sense to me to put it back together doesn't seem to work. No matter how I situate it, it doesn't engage the primaries. Given what you have shared with me, I am going to guess I have it flipped 180 and it's actually supposed to hold them closed instead of actuate them open. I just want to make sure it's right- my luck I'd put it back on, start it up and go immediately to 7k rpm shortly before it made some clearance holes in the block.
I am not really conversant with the 4150/4180, but . . . the secondaries are vacuum-operated, so that Pri/Sec linkage is probably to ensure that the Secs can't open if the Pris are closed, which is I guess what you said. IOW, nothing you do with the primary shaft by hand will open the Secs, but it should close them. That's how it looks to me.
My carby is a 2V, so while a lot is similar, I've got nothing like that Pri/Sec interface here, and can't help.
Originally Posted by USAF99
The carb is a 4180c, Holley made for Motorcraft. It's Ford P/N is D9TE-9510-EBA and it's List Number is 9089. It sits atop the 370 in my 1980 F700.
If the circled screw is in it’s original position this linkage is correct
This part acts as a one way cam action, it works against the two tabs on the primary shaft in photo 1 to close the throttle, it does not open the throttle, throttle opening is controlled by the governor spring in photo 2
Close the primaries about half way and hold the throttle lever at full open on the cam cover while installing it over the throttle shafts, do not force it, once installed moving the throttle lever forward should close the primaries and moving the lever back should allow the governor spring to open the primaries
Yessir - that's the kit I got. This last picture you included is my carb exactly- but it's on a 370. Which leads me to the obvious deduction that someone put the 4bbl 4150 on a truck that originally came with the 4180c or possibly a 2150 (less likely given the manifold). They hacked off the linkage bracket where the throttle stop goes, which always confused me until seeing these photos. It was apparently modified for the PTO system, the red deal in my last photo idles the engine up when the bucket/mast is in use or the stabilization legs are in transit. I "guess" it makes sense-- but why not a 4180? Availability maybe?
@Destroked 450 Outstanding - I did just that, and it went right together. Thanks to you and @asavage for all the help!
The carburetor in post #3 is your carburetor which is a 4180
The primary difference between the 4180 and 4150 is the location of the fuel mixture screws which also requires different metering blocks between the two
4150 has fuel mixture screws in the sides of the metering blocks which has remained unchanged since its introduction
4180 has fuel metering screws in the front of the base plate and its metering block does not have provisions for the side screws
Your carb is a 4180 model and list # 9089 shows it’s for the model and year of truck you have