Hot start struggles
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2025
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You will want to fix that, regardless of whether the starter needs replacement. You don't want the starter flopping around, secured by only one bolt. This could break off the other ear and/or chew up the flywheel ring gear.
If you remove the one good bolt, the starter should slide off the broken bolt without much trouble. Grab the protruding shank with a pair of Visegrips to unthread it.
If you remove the one good bolt, the starter should slide off the broken bolt without much trouble. Grab the protruding shank with a pair of Visegrips to unthread it.
Here's some related pictures of the exhaust manifold as well as the starters proximity to the exhaust which is why I think heat soak maybe an issue
I'm quite excited to test out the starter but I need another hand and some alligator clips which may be hard to find on a Sunday evening
Current plan is just pop the hood every single yard I do
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3rd Gear
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It turns out one starter bolt was threaded north to south and the other south to North so no issues there
Here's some related pictures of the exhaust manifold as well as the starters proximity to the exhaust which is why I think heat soak maybe an issue
I'm quite excited to test out the starter but I need another hand and some alligator clips which may be hard to find on a Sunday evening
Current plan is just pop the hood every single yard I do
Here's some related pictures of the exhaust manifold as well as the starters proximity to the exhaust which is why I think heat soak maybe an issue
I'm quite excited to test out the starter but I need another hand and some alligator clips which may be hard to find on a Sunday evening
Current plan is just pop the hood every single yard I do
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2025
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I've seen online that they make wraps that I can wrap around the starter so I might pick one of those out but I will refrain from using the parts catapult just yet.
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3rd Gear
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There's about 4 belts on the truck. Which one would I look at?
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
All of them but if you turn off AC you would only need to check what else the belt goes over but it could be anything driven by belts and why all of them need to be checked as it can to lock up when hot.
Dave ----
Dave ----
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3rd Gear
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it's there but it sure doesn't work It's been treating me well today so far no slug starts but it hasn't really gotten hot. Lots of overcast. It had a weak battery to block ground i discovered last night. Can I still do the voltage drop test if it isn't hot?
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From: Angier, NC
Bold off you to assume I've got a/c in this old rig it's there but it sure doesn't work
It's been treating me well today so far no slug starts but it hasn't really gotten hot. Lots of overcast. It had a weak battery to block ground i discovered last night. Can I still do the voltage drop test if it isn't hot?
it's there but it sure doesn't workIt's been treating me well today so far no slug starts but it hasn't really gotten hot. Lots of overcast. It had a weak battery to block ground i discovered last night. Can I still do the voltage drop test if it isn't hot?
There is a nut on here that graphed half an AC firewall into a non-AC truck just to have factory AC that has a leak that cant be found yet
The only way to check if it is 1 of the belt driven parts is to undo the belts and check each one.
I dont see why you cant do the drop test when it is not hot but if it checks out good cold then run it hot.
Dave ----
Dave ----
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Joined: Nov 2013
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Yes, but you’ll get more helpful results if you can duplicate the fault conditions.
So a hot engine on a hot day is when the problem is worse, right? You could test the engine hot on a cold day, or the engine cold on a hot day. But for the bestest results, hot on hot will aggravate the fault and make it easier to isolate.
So a hot engine on a hot day is when the problem is worse, right? You could test the engine hot on a cold day, or the engine cold on a hot day. But for the bestest results, hot on hot will aggravate the fault and make it easier to isolate.
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