Just saying, I'm not good at math, the current battery, pictured above, has been in my truck for a while now. It replaced the 560CCA that was there for decades.

I'd be interested with the OP's batteries numbers are ?
They say, heat is bad for a battery...?

Did the OP have this slow cranking during colder weather ?

 

I've never paid a lot of attention to the CCA rating and stuff like that. The important thing is whether the battery can supply the massive flow of electrons required by the starter. The easiest way to determine that is measure the voltage (directly on the battery posts) with the starter engaged and ignition disabled. That's why I keep pimping the voltage drop test. My version is actually a hybrid test, that measures the battery's capability and if the cables and starter relay can deliver those same electrons without undue restriction. If it passes, the battery meets my needs and I'm happy.


Maybe heat is bad for the overall starter system, not necessarily the battery itself. It's fairly common to hear about hot restart problems, where the starter can barely get the crankshaft spinning, or not at all. In that situation, often caused by underhood heaters, aka headers, the starter gets heat-soaked. I'm not sure of the exact chain of events, but when a starter is way too hot, it does not work very well. Maybe thermal expansion affecting internal connections? Or maybe that thin varnish insulation on the ciul windings starts to break down? Whatever the exact cause, a starter typically is not happy when exposed to too much heat. This same situation can be caused by the crank and pray method when an engine won't start, such as with an ignition or fuel problem. The typical M.O. is to crank and crank and crank the poor starter until it overheats, and now you've got two problems: A damaged starter and the original fault.

But as far as heat affecting the battery itself? I suppose excessive cranking of the starter can overheat the poor battery. But just hot ambient temperature alone isn't going to cause much trouble. I'm pretty sure I could park my truck in Death Valley overnight and then wait until the hottest part of the day to start. I think even at 130F ambient, the battery would be just fine. In my overinflated opinion, "heat affecting the battery" is more like underhood heat wreaking havoc on the rest of the starter system.

FWIW, offered for free and worth every penny.

 

I'm just saying, there are ad's on TV and some media sites, where they say summer heat can be hard on a battery.

I did have one fail back about 30 years ago, in the heat of summer time. So if the battery in the OP's truck is old...the heat may be an issue for it.

 

No issues in the cold it's only as of late. I have seen that heat next to the starter can be an issue. Since I use it to cut grass, I leave the hood open in the shade and it'll only start up that way after I let it cool down it will do one to two slow cranks then fire up but if I don't do that it'll sound like it's a dead battery it won't barely turn over

 

Battery brand new

 

These are classic symptoms of excess voltage drop under load. Have you run the test yet at the link in post #2 above? I absoposilutely guarantee it will quickly pinpoint the fault and get your poor truck's starter system back in shape. Think of the extra money you'll earn moving quickly between job sites, less the expense of hiring a skywriter to thank me.

 

I haven't done it yet, currently fighting the one we know as "procrastination."

 

I've just done some additional reading and see that there's a possibility I could have cooked my starter it's probably a little over a year old new starter from autozone. Since it is right next to the headers and there's no heat shielding

 

What's that saying? Something like "You can lead a horse to water, but good luck getting him to put on a swimsuit." Maybe that's not quite it.

Before loading the parts catapult (Pull!) in hopes of a fix, please run the voltage drop test I keep pimping. I don't get any money for it. I do it out of the unlimited kindness of my generous heart, strictly for the benefit of mankind.

That test was written for your EXACT situation. Duplicate the fault conditions (engine warm) before running the test.

 

I did a quick scan of this whole thread, I didn't anywhere where you said you had headers. That changes everything.

You said you use this truck for your business and need it reliable? Or am I confusing you with another thread? I think I would take the headers off. They are so much trouble for what little gain you get from them. In a few years you will be replacing them if they salt the roads where you are. It's just not worth the hassle. Of course you know the hassle of changing the starter with headers already I assume.

 

I seem to recall someone in post 10 asking about how close the exhaust is to the starter...I guess he missed answering that.

 

Yeah, but that would be SUPER noisy. Or did you mean to replace them with the stock exhaust configuration? You didn't really specify. Don't want to put words in your mouth.

 

Yes just need to get some longer alligator leads to make it easier

 

I don't know if I have headers.... Let me send a photo of my situation

Also just found out that one of my starter bolts is broken at the head. So that'll be fun to replace whenever it's time for. Had absolutely no clue

 

You will want to fix that, regardless of whether the starter needs replacement. You don't want the starter flopping around, secured by only one bolt. This could break off the other ear and/or chew up the flywheel ring gear.

If you remove the one good bolt, the starter should slide off the broken bolt without much trouble. Grab the protruding shank with a pair of Visegrips to unthread it.