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Ok, so I have gone through the thread in the link below multiple times and I think I have it all sorted out based on looking at the pictures etc. I want to be sure I have it right as I don't want to fry anything and set myself back.
Positive battery terminal to engine block (or frame but block is preferred)- 00 Cable
Negative Battery terminal to right side of Solenoidwith the 2 yellow wires coming from the Harness. 00 Cable
Left side of Solenoid to Starter - 00 Cable
Block to frame - Braided cable
Block to cab - Braided cable
A couple of questions:
Can I use regular cable for the block to frame and block to cab or is there a reason to use braided cable instead?
Where on the cab are you mounting the ground from the block?
Image from the thread I linked to. I used this as a guide. Left side of solenoid to starter. Right side to negative battery terminal My solenoid with the 2 yellow wires from the wiring harness on the right side of the solenoid.
Positive ground to the frame was stock original and has served my 54 well for 71 years. Just make sure you have a clean contact point with no rust (which I know your frame is good) and no paint.
If you don't have braided cable, welding cable, which many of us use anyhow, is very flexible.
al good info above. Just find a fine strand cable like welding cable and you'll be fine. I'll only add that I like soldered
connections over crimped... but most folks don't have the 'heat' to solder big cable. Don't use "walmart" connectors
go to a welding supply house and buy good connectors sized to your wire.
Can I use welding cable for all my connections (battery, solenoid etc) as long as it is sized properly at 2/0? It is a more affordable solution overall.
Where is the best place to ground to the cab?m
Thanks All! On the list to try and complete the wiring this week.
What folks here have been calling "welding" cable, they technically mean a wire that is made up of a very high number of very small strands. Your typical battery cables will have 19 or 37 strands of "spaghetti" sized copper. The "welding" cable will have something like 1254 strands of very fine copper. The higher the strand count, the more flexible it is. It is also sometimes referred to as class K wire.
It is fine to use that high strand count wire for all your connections. Be sure to use the proper terminals and crimp them with an appropriate tool. These are not things you want to solder.
I would ground the cab at the firewall.
Just another grounding suggestion. Ground your positive battery cable at your engine block. A starter mounting bolt even, and then use that point or another convenient point on the block to run a ground to the cab's firewall and a ground to your frame. When cranking you want every amp of that batteries current to run right to the starter, or block.
It's just a good reference point use use as a main ground since your ignition uses your engine for its grounding point and your charging system assuming you have your generator/alternator and voltage regulator grounded properly.
This is just my opinion/suggestion I guess.
I would ground the cab at the firewall.
Just another grounding suggestion. Ground your positive battery cable at your engine block. A starter mounting bolt even, and then use that point or another convenient point on the block to run a ground to the cab's firewall and a ground to your frame. When cranking you want every amp of that batteries current to run right to the starter, or block.
It's just a good reference point use use as a main ground since your ignition uses your engine for its grounding point and your charging system assuming you have your generator/alternator and voltage regulator grounded properly.
This is just my opinion/suggestion I guess.
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